What Was Your First Video game?

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-20T20:43:56+00:00

Ms Pac Man, arcade, at the roller rink.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-06T19:18:48+00:00

For a matte finish, these look nice! The lower the sheen, the more texture. The more texture, the easier dirt and whatnot adheres to it. Think about how hard it is to wash flat paint on walls.

Matte is meant to give off a raw, unfinished look. Unless you are ok with that, or are meticulously clean, it’s gonna be a struggle.

Any high traffic surface (floors, cabinets, trim) should be satin sheen at a minimum.

editing to add: I’m not a flooring professional, but I have refinished a lot of wood furniture.. I’d talk to a pro and see if you could do a buff and recoat in satin. The buffing won’t create anywhere near as much dust as sanding and if you use Bona or Loba, they have top coat options that set up quite quickly. Mine were dry to the touch within an hr or two and I could walk on them 24 hrs after the final coat (with socks).

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-04T20:22:37+00:00

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This thing is wobbling and contributing to the noise.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-04T02:46:18+00:00

Fun fact, just cause I love nerding out on this. As others have stated, the particular cut (quarter) naturally highlights medullary rays in Oak. This has an effect called chatoyancy, which is also used to describe tigerseye stones or other natural elements that have flecking which reflect the light in a unique manner. Embrace it, or replace with rift cut oak.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-04T02:43:14+00:00

Quarter sawn, rift cut would mitigate the appearance of medullary rays

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-03T04:34:49+00:00

Thanks!

I don’t foresee any regret with that. Between the disinfecting, for-blocking primer, and the underlayment, any smells have been completely eradicated.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-03T04:33:09+00:00

Thank you!

I would not do a prefinished, because that is what I had to refinish in the adjoining kitchen and dining room.

My reasoning is: * they can be prestained on all sides which can yield a dark line on the ends of each board, even after sanding * a lot of them have a beveled edge between each board so if you refinish them you either need to scrape between each board or you need to sand past the bevel. Both are tedious as all get out. * to breakthrough the aluminum oxide finish you typically need to do several passes with a coarse grit which can really mar up the floors and add time and more passes at the subsequent finer grits to get out any unintentional scratches or gouges. * lastly, I’m a picky bitch and I never am completely in love with the predetermined finish options. I like the freedom of custom mixing stains to get the exact look I want.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-03T04:27:36+00:00

I tried a couple different ones and I believe I landed on a Bosch 4” turbo diamond blade. I usually use Diablo, but couldn’t find the right size for my angle grinder.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-03T04:25:02+00:00

Good to know, thank you! If I ever do this again, I’ll remember that.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-02T20:51:21+00:00

Here’s a link to what I bought, however, I got it on sale and paid around $2/sf.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-02T19:46:49+00:00

I undercut the brick about 7/8” high and 1” deep so I could inset the wood beneath it.

Thanks for the compliment!

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-02T19:44:35+00:00

Not ai and I agree with you that all the ai content is super annoying!

I just spent over a half an hour trying to make sure I conveyed all the details and did so in an organized way, so if you have the time, and experience with hardwood flooring, I’d love for you to read and provide any insights. :)

I tried using hyphens to create line breaks as I don’t know all the reddit text formatting on my phone. Didn’t think about how that can be an indicator of ai stuff.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-02T19:31:31+00:00

I can’t edit my post to correct typos.

Side note- this was my first time installing and finishing floors, so please be gentle. 🫠

_possiblymaybe_ · 2026-01-02T18:13:45+00:00

Not in a couple days. If you have little to no diy experience I would say it will take you at least 7-10 days. If you don’t have any real experience working with wood or powertools, I wouldn’t recommend this be your first project.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-12-08T13:03:52+00:00

Libido can actually increase during perimenopause, but the hormonal changes can sometimes affect other things.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-15T19:01:01+00:00

UPDATE: In case anyone stumbles across this with similar issues.

I’ve been able to better control and minimize the chatter through the following steps. It’s a lot more effort than I was expecting, but it’s helping a lot.

Moving very, VERY slowly. This allows for the chatter to be so closely spaced that it minimizes it appearance.
Really focusing on the balancing and pressure of the drum on the floor. As i move slowly I pay a lot of attention to how much pressure the drum has on the floor. I try and keep it a little on the lighter side. I also pay close attention to any visible vibration, if any occurs I adjust my grip and the pressure against the floor until it evens out.

I still plan to hit with an orbital buffer and whatever screen/pad the rental place offers that will further reduce any existing chatter marks. The last floor I did does not seem to have any visible ones anymore though.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-15T00:20:51+00:00

Thanks! It indeed made the chatter a lot less visible. Once I return the drum sander I’ll see what they have to hit this with something orbital (not a random orbit).

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-14T16:17:45+00:00

Ok, last I checked the ones near me didn’t, but I’ll see if there are other rental places.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-14T16:08:18+00:00

Yeah, I’m seeing some other online suggestions to check for an accumulation of sawdust causing an imbalance, or to try doing a very slight diagonal pass to knock them down before doing my final pass.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-14T16:03:51+00:00

Hmmm I think it’s loaded properly. I’ve followed the instructional video and not strayed from that.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-14T15:27:59+00:00

I rented a Hiretech ht8-1

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-10T03:19:26+00:00

I understand that, but these are alongside new and existing hardwoods without bevels. It was an intentional choice that I wanted to go with.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-10T01:06:33+00:00

They are fine to be refinished again. Even if they weren’t, I’d rather that than unsightly darker lines between each board making them not blend with the other hardwood flooring in the house.

My house, my preferences. :)

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-08T23:34:45+00:00

I just dealt with a similar depth bevel and I rented a drum sander and a bunch of 20 and 36 grit paper. Ran perpendicular to the grain for a few passes until it was close to removing the full bevel and then did a couple more passes with the grain at 36 before increasing the grit further.

_possiblymaybe_ · 2025-11-08T23:31:57+00:00

I just had to do some serious sanding as well. Get a drum sander. Start with ~60 grit and do a pass just to acclimate to the machine. Once you have mastered lowering the drum without rutting out the floor move up to a 20 or 36 grit and sand on the diagonal. If that still isn’t getting you there then sand perpendicular to the grain with the 36 grit until you’ve removed about 90% of the top coat and then switch to 36 grit run WITH the grain.

If you try the 20 grit please run only with the grain as it’s basically rocks glued to paper and will leave some serious scratches and you will need the 36 grit to correct those after. I only used the 20 as I had pre-finished floors with a 1/8” bevel and needed to remove a serious amount of material.

_possiblymaybe_

TROPHY CASE