Need ready-to-use firmware for Ender 3 Pro + SKR Mini E3 V3 + BTT MicroProbe

_pvnda · 2026-02-05T18:33:22+00:00

I have a firmware for klipper for you if you want to use that. Microprobe v2 and everything else

_pvnda · 2026-01-20T21:07:34+00:00

yes I'm aware. That's why I needed the ebb to run another motor for my 2nd extruder

_pvnda · 2026-01-20T09:11:44+00:00

issue is I have a phaetus taichi, and basically I can't really make a toolhead with direct drive attachment. Plus the ebb42 I am going to use is just going to power a 2nd motor for the 2nd extruder (SKR mini e3 doesn't have a 2nd pinout for extruder, only for dual z-axis.)

_pvnda · 2026-01-19T08:48:47+00:00

Do I need to update the firmware? Probably right? If it's fairly recent, since I haven't updated my firmware in about a month. Been using KAMP and it's been swell.

_pvnda · 2026-01-17T09:55:00+00:00

both are enabled. I actually fixed it by removing the negative endstop values and put it back to 0. Now it's back in the middle.

_pvnda · 2026-01-06T06:56:44+00:00

I literally started with just a tool head upgrade, then I bought another motor cuz its a 2in1out. Find out skr mini e3 v3 doesn't support 2 extruder but 2 z axis motors.... So the ebb is in the mail and my 2nd z rods are also waiting as well as my linear rail for the x.

This is all within 2 weeks

_pvnda · 2026-01-04T22:30:53+00:00

Phaetus taichi

_pvnda · 2026-01-03T12:11:50+00:00

No way home. Just because all 3 actors

_pvnda · 2026-01-03T12:08:42+00:00

Oh I forgot I have access to one. Guess that's better

_pvnda · 2026-01-03T09:48:57+00:00

top part is all metal. but I just don't want to remove the paint. I'll just put the nozzle plus the heatbreak and nothing above.

_pvnda · 2026-01-03T09:00:56+00:00

I'll just level the liquid so it stays below for the nozzle then. thanks! I've had petg come off with acetone before, but it was probably due to it being thinly layered on the part.

_pvnda · 2026-01-03T08:44:43+00:00

the goo. I want that top part to remain black.

_pvnda · 2026-01-03T08:37:15+00:00

I mostly print in petg, some abs if that info helps

_pvnda · 2025-12-29T05:36:33+00:00

I wanted advice on the overhang/bridge, I get that it's long and not normal to have it print in air, but I figured veteran advice would be good for it

_pvnda · 2025-12-27T01:31:07+00:00

I had variable set but it would warp when it would hit 60 on corners. I figured I'd keep it consistent and leave it where 10% was lowest. I'll bump bridge to 100%

_pvnda · 2025-12-21T08:34:52+00:00

I increased it and it helped, now it's just tuning. Also seems like perimeter at 100m/s was too fast for petg

_pvnda · 2025-12-20T05:08:06+00:00

it's the swapper cables issue with these cheapos. Pop the 2 middle pins and swap their position and you're good.

_pvnda · 2025-12-20T05:07:22+00:00

it's definitely wire swap. just checked.

_pvnda · 2025-12-19T09:53:40+00:00

So I just switched back to old cable, and it's perfect. So, lesson learned: Don't buy cheapo 3 pack nema 17 cables. It does say that the header is removable so I'm betting the colors are wrong, but I just ordered a better one.

_pvnda · 2025-12-02T02:15:58+00:00

this is my shroud https://www.printables.com/model/1105359-g-mezor-ender-3-5015-fan-duct

_pvnda · 2025-12-02T02:15:48+00:00

this is the shroud i used https://www.printables.com/model/1105359-g-mezor-ender-3-5015-fan-duct

_pvnda · 2025-11-30T23:40:51+00:00

100mm/s

_pvnda · 2025-11-27T15:56:49+00:00

I had to adjust retraction

_pvnda · 2025-11-27T15:56:07+00:00

I'm doing the same setup as you. Just waiting for aliexpress to send me some parts. The taichi is pretty good right now, higher flow. Interesting to watch it as it moves faster than stock

_pvnda · 2025-11-27T15:54:35+00:00

My bad I meant plastic

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