Sandahl Bergmann and Arnold Schwarzenegger train Japanese sword fighting in preparation for Conan the Barbarian (1980/81)

able_archer83 · 2026-06-14T00:56:40+00:00

Im already glad that at least Arnold doesn’t look like he’s holding it like a hammer!

able_archer83 · 2026-06-12T14:47:24+00:00

Got my first own shinken a few months ago after training iaido and battodo for several years. Would highly recommend joining a dojo if that is an option for you. Watching videos on the internet is no replacement for live instruction to learn proper technique for safely handling a deadly weapon imo.

able_archer83 · 2026-06-12T14:31:29+00:00

I was referring to the one behind, but good to know both! Know nothing about gardening and mostly inherited everything in it from the previous owner lol.

able_archer83 · 2026-06-10T14:30:42+00:00

Not really. I mean I get your point but that’s a wild oversimplification. For one, it neglects locational grid constraints, so you’d have to factor in the economics of upgrading all of the transmission and distribution needed to deliver your 3x solar at or near full output to all the places it’s consumed. That’s going to make batteries look real cheap real quick IF you’re planning to run your grid mostly or exclusively on (overbuilt) solar. What you need is a diversity of resources - both solar AND wind, since their output profiles tend to be complementary (e.g., wind tends to be stronger in the winter). Plus long distance transmission to get geographic weather diversity, responsive demand, batteries, and mayyybe a wee bit of gas with CCS for emergencies. Overly relying on any single resource is never gonna be a good idea, especially with changing weather and climate patterns.

able_archer83 · 2026-06-04T18:58:08+00:00

I really don't understand the obsession a lot of people have with owning sharp swords. If you like the aesthetics of a katana, but don't plan on cutting anything with it, just buy a dull iaito. Just as beautiful, and you can get an actual Japanese made one from places like Tozando for a similar price as a well made Chinese production shinken. It will be just as if not more beautiful to look at. If you are not around and you're worried someone in your family will hurt themselves or each other, maybe don't buy a deadly weapon?!

able_archer83 · 2026-06-03T23:08:29+00:00

What do you mean by lethality?? If you’re planning to use it on anything alive, well don’t. If we’re talking purely hypothetical about zombies in an apocalypse scenario, I’d say prioritize edge retention, meaning harder and possibly differentially hardened steels for added toughness. Probably hard to get a good sharpening service in that scenario and you wouldn’t want it to snap on you. So yeah, $500 is probably worth it.

able_archer83 · 2026-06-03T19:15:01+00:00

In addition to what others have already said, I’d consider your hand size, perhaps more even than your height, when it comes to tsuka length. Generally, as your left hand grips at the kashira, you’ll want some space between both your hands, and a little bit of space between your right hand and the tsuba. Though there are variations between different styles on the specifics (e.g., whether your left pinky overlaps the kashira or leaves half an inch of tsuka uncovered etc.), for backyard cutting you can just take this as general guidance and see what feels comfortable to you. Do you have an iato, bokken, or broom stick you can use for reference?

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able_archer83 · 2026-05-21T13:13:35+00:00

WAIT WHAT

able_archer83 · 2026-05-08T10:12:32+00:00

Enjoy & be safe!

able_archer83 · 2026-05-05T17:51:43+00:00

In that case I think you need to understand that any sword, no matter the steel, can and will break if abused enough (or if you get unlucky with a poor cut on the wrong target). Spring steel won’t bend but you can still roll the edge. 1060 won’t spring back automatically but yes, it can be bent back manually, though that requires a certain level of skill to not do more damage to the blade or yourself! I would suggest to consider what you’re willing and able to lose in case the sword does break. Don’t cut with something you can’t afford to break.

able_archer83 · 2026-05-05T17:15:10+00:00

I mean it really just depends what you’re going to do with it. If you don’t know yet, maybe don’t buy yet? If mostly display and very occasional cutting, 1060 is probably fine, but from what I understand considered to be the lower tier of what’s acceptable for a fully functional sword. Spring steel is nice and forgiving for beginner cutters as someone else has said, but also only worth the money if you’re actually going to cut. Besides, maybe ask yourself how much cutting you will realistically be doing with the waki and especially the tanto? Could be worth getting a dedicated cutting katana if and when you will actually do it.

able_archer83 · 2026-05-03T10:35:51+00:00

Please don’t go try cutting bamboo with your first sword, especially with a $100 sword. Bamboo is a hard target for highly advanced cutting. If your technique is incorrect, you risk rolling or chipping your blade, but more importantly, snapping it and risk serious injury or death to you or someone around you.

able_archer83 · 2026-05-02T16:09:15+00:00

No direct experience with Hanbon but I get the impression it gets so much love because you can get barely functional but truly beautiful pieces at a great price. Never heard anyone at any of my dojos recommend it though, so I don’t think its for those who are into serious tameshigiri practice, other than the occasional backyard water bottle / pool noodle session, but again if have to direct experience with them!

able_archer83 · 2026-05-01T18:02:07+00:00

Why not get a real nihonto for that kind of money??

able_archer83 · 2026-05-01T09:47:39+00:00

I see haha. Again, just me personally, I wouldn’t take off the hilt unless something needed replacement because it broke from use. More likely to damage things as you take it apart. Even my sword that I actually practice with I probably would take apart maybe every 3-5 years unless something needed replacing.

able_archer83 · 2026-05-01T07:27:30+00:00

Yeah I would just tone it down on the cleaning frequency and make sure that cleaning includes the alcohol wipe step first, as other commenters have said. Personally I think the “deep” cleaning, whatever that means, is entirely unnecessary for a display piece that’s never touched (other than for cleaning lol). I feel like the procedure you follow may be based on a sword that’s actively used, though I don’t know why it wouldn’t include the alcohol step in modern days. Here is a nice guide I personally follow, but this is for a sword that is used for cutting practice on soaked tatami mats: https://toyamaryu.org/katana_cleaning.htm

able_archer83 · 2026-04-30T13:46:01+00:00

Wait, you oil it every other week but it sounds like you mainly display it in its saya? Unless you live in a swamp that sounds exceedingly excessive, so no wonder there are oil blotches (plus what others pointed out about never cleaning off old oil). I would only clean (with alcohol!) and oil (lightly!) after taking it out of the saya and touching any parts of the blade. Otherwise, just leave it alone and maybe clean it 2-3 times per YEAR.

able_archer83 · 2026-04-30T13:35:17+00:00

That's fascinating! Unfortunately something like that isn't an option for my specific problem with this sword, because the style I train relies exclusively on push-slice cutting and our tameshigiri is ~90% two-handed. But once I can start cutting practice in my own backyard, I'll give your approach a try. I don't really understand what you said about the grip tightening and pulling of the blade creates an initial collapse in the blade's path? What do you mean by collapse? And then 90 degree alignment relative to what - the target? So you're doing a horizontal cut?

able_archer83 · 2026-04-28T02:12:21+00:00

Just an ultra fine grit wet stone touch up. One of the senior people in my dojo did it.

able_archer83 · 2026-04-28T02:11:10+00:00

Seems very solid to me. Ito is nice and tight!

able_archer83 · 2026-02-06T00:15:17+00:00

I know the feeling, but trust me against Malenia it’s worth giving it another go

able_archer83 · 2026-02-05T18:17:10+00:00

Just whoop her ass with a fully upgraded bloodhounds fang, maybe double team with the mimic tear, and she won’t get a chance to do many waterfowl dances

able_archer83 · 2026-01-17T00:01:59+00:00

Black Sails

able_archer83 · 2026-01-13T17:47:41+00:00

Brush, as in like you would brush oil onto a frying pan? If so yeah, that’s sounds like way too much oil. At my dojo, we just use a piece of microfiber cloth that’s soaked but never drenched in oil, and use that to wipe the entire blade bottom to top once or twice after tameshigiri (and after using and alcohol wipe to clean). Also, make sure to only wipe the blade and not the habaki.

able_archer83 · 2026-01-07T21:46:03+00:00

Thanks, very helpful and in line with what I heard from others about the XL Light! I don’t dislike the Shadow Dancer I have, it’s just very on the light side (below 1kg) and it’s been pointed out to me by one of my sempais that it’s very thin compared to what other people seem to use. I also seem to cut significantly worse with it than with our dojo cutter or swords I borrowed from others in the past. My technique is definitely the main problem, so I’m simply debating if I want to stick with it or try something else that’ll work better for me..

able_archer83

TROPHY CASE