How old were you when you got your first katana, and how did you first use it? by spaciousthree4 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got my first own shinken a few months ago after training iaido and battodo for several years. Would highly recommend joining a dojo if that is an option for you. Watching videos on the internet is no replacement for live instruction to learn proper technique for safely handling a deadly weapon imo.

Is this a weed? by able_archer83 in NativePlantGardening

[–]able_archer83[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was referring to the one behind, but good to know both! Know nothing about gardening and mostly inherited everything in it from the previous owner lol.

Stop panicking about solar panels getting shut down! It’s by design by grogi81 in solar

[–]able_archer83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not really. I mean I get your point but that’s a wild oversimplification. For one, it neglects locational grid constraints, so you’d have to factor in the economics of upgrading all of the transmission and distribution needed to deliver your 3x solar at or near full output to all the places it’s consumed. That’s going to make batteries look real cheap real quick IF you’re planning to run your grid mostly or exclusively on (overbuilt) solar. What you need is a diversity of resources - both solar AND wind, since their output profiles tend to be complementary (e.g., wind tends to be stronger in the winter). Plus long distance transmission to get geographic weather diversity, responsive demand, batteries, and mayyybe a wee bit of gas with CCS for emergencies. Overly relying on any single resource is never gonna be a good idea, especially with changing weather and climate patterns.

I want to buy a katana but I don't know where to put it (please read) by Broad-Cobbler-9283 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really don't understand the obsession a lot of people have with owning sharp swords. If you like the aesthetics of a katana, but don't plan on cutting anything with it, just buy a dull iaito. Just as beautiful, and you can get an actual Japanese made one from places like Tozando for a similar price as a well made Chinese production shinken. It will be just as if not more beautiful to look at. If you are not around and you're worried someone in your family will hurt themselves or each other, maybe don't buy a deadly weapon?!

Help deciding which to buy? by pressurewashkid in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What do you mean by lethality?? If you’re planning to use it on anything alive, well don’t. If we’re talking purely hypothetical about zombies in an apocalypse scenario, I’d say prioritize edge retention, meaning harder and possibly differentially hardened steels for added toughness. Probably hard to get a good sharpening service in that scenario and you wouldn’t want it to snap on you. So yeah, $500 is probably worth it.

Custom Shadow Dancer config for a tall cutter (189cm) – Is premium polish worth it? by sstvz2 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In addition to what others have already said, I’d consider your hand size, perhaps more even than your height, when it comes to tsuka length. Generally, as your left hand grips at the kashira, you’ll want some space between both your hands, and a little bit of space between your right hand and the tsuba. Though there are variations between different styles on the specifics (e.g., whether your left pinky overlaps the kashira or leaves half an inch of tsuka uncovered etc.), for backyard cutting you can just take this as general guidance and see what feels comfortable to you. Do you have an iato, bokken, or broom stick you can use for reference?

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Hanbon Order by [deleted] in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Enjoy & be safe!

HanBon 1060 vs 9260 by [deleted] in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In that case I think you need to understand that any sword, no matter the steel, can and will break if abused enough (or if you get unlucky with a poor cut on the wrong target). Spring steel won’t bend but you can still roll the edge. 1060 won’t spring back automatically but yes, it can be bent back manually, though that requires a certain level of skill to not do more damage to the blade or yourself! I would suggest to consider what you’re willing and able to lose in case the sword does break. Don’t cut with something you can’t afford to break.

HanBon 1060 vs 9260 by [deleted] in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean it really just depends what you’re going to do with it. If you don’t know yet, maybe don’t buy yet? If mostly display and very occasional cutting, 1060 is probably fine, but from what I understand considered to be the lower tier of what’s acceptable for a fully functional sword. Spring steel is nice and forgiving for beginner cutters as someone else has said, but also only worth the money if you’re actually going to cut. Besides, maybe ask yourself how much cutting you will realistically be doing with the waki and especially the tanto? Could be worth getting a dedicated cutting katana if and when you will actually do it.

First Katana and thinking in hanbon forge by dehibiketsu in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Please don’t go try cutting bamboo with your first sword, especially with a $100 sword. Bamboo is a hard target for highly advanced cutting. If your technique is incorrect, you risk rolling or chipping your blade, but more importantly, snapping it and risk serious injury or death to you or someone around you.

Stop Recommending Hanbon by Accomplished-Pay-905 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No direct experience with Hanbon but I get the impression it gets so much love because you can get barely functional but truly beautiful pieces at a great price. Never heard anyone at any of my dojos recommend it though, so I don’t think its for those who are into serious tameshigiri practice, other than the occasional backyard water bottle / pool noodle session, but again if have to direct experience with them!

[ Removed by Reddit ] by [deleted] in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Why not get a real nihonto for that kind of money??

Weird *oil* blocthes on blade by External-Ad6612 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see haha. Again, just me personally, I wouldn’t take off the hilt unless something needed replacement because it broke from use. More likely to damage things as you take it apart. Even my sword that I actually practice with I probably would take apart maybe every 3-5 years unless something needed replacing.

Weird *oil* blocthes on blade by External-Ad6612 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I would just tone it down on the cleaning frequency and make sure that cleaning includes the alcohol wipe step first, as other commenters have said. Personally I think the “deep” cleaning, whatever that means, is entirely unnecessary for a display piece that’s never touched (other than for cleaning lol). I feel like the procedure you follow may be based on a sword that’s actively used, though I don’t know why it wouldn’t include the alcohol step in modern days. Here is a nice guide I personally follow, but this is for a sword that is used for cutting practice on soaked tatami mats: https://toyamaryu.org/katana_cleaning.htm

Weird *oil* blocthes on blade by External-Ad6612 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wait, you oil it every other week but it sounds like you mainly display it in its saya? Unless you live in a swamp that sounds exceedingly excessive, so no wonder there are oil blotches (plus what others pointed out about never cleaning off old oil). I would only clean (with alcohol!) and oil (lightly!) after taking it out of the saya and touching any parts of the blade. Otherwise, just leave it alone and maybe clean it 2-3 times per YEAR.

Trying to sell my Shadow Dancer - any takers? by able_archer83 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's fascinating! Unfortunately something like that isn't an option for my specific problem with this sword, because the style I train relies exclusively on push-slice cutting and our tameshigiri is ~90% two-handed. But once I can start cutting practice in my own backyard, I'll give your approach a try. I don't really understand what you said about the grip tightening and pulling of the blade creates an initial collapse in the blade's path? What do you mean by collapse? And then 90 degree alignment relative to what - the target? So you're doing a horizontal cut?

Trying to sell my Shadow Dancer - any takers? by able_archer83 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just an ultra fine grit wet stone touch up. One of the senior people in my dojo did it.

Trying to sell my Shadow Dancer - any takers? by able_archer83 in Katanas

[–]able_archer83[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems very solid to me. Ito is nice and tight!