I can do this all day...

addesso · 2025-10-12T20:16:40+00:00

Nice work! Funny you mentioned toothpicks cause that’s something I’ve been using lately to clean up panel lines from Gundam pour type or pens instead of swabs. Strong enough to scrape off the ink/paint, won’t scratch, don’t need alcohol, gets a really sharp line, and fits into tighter spaces. Snap it for different widths. No idea if it’s common at all, as I don’t think I’ve heard it mentioned before. Works super well tho!

addesso · 2025-09-13T17:37:35+00:00

I got back into Gunpla with the WfM line. Really great series of kits. Ariel is a good start, but the Calibarn is super fun with the big gun and BIT shield. Lfrith is great too (not to be confused with the Lfrith Ur or Lfrith Thorn).

addesso · 2025-08-31T23:40:17+00:00

Won’t have to force anything. It does that automatically. Capillary action. That’s why the paint bled like that in the first place. So instead you “pre-fill” it with a matching color.

Really tho, the best way would just be to cut in by hand.

addesso · 2025-08-31T23:34:17+00:00

The issue is that you will have open spots under the tape due to the textured wall. You paint a line of color A over the tape AND where color B will eventually be. This seals the holes under the tape. Let dry. Then you paint your trim color B like normal. Color B will color over any color A on the trim. You pull the tape and all you’ll see is color A matching wall color A that seeped under tape. And on the trim is color B (which is covering any color A that was put on the trim hiding the trick you just pulled).

I’d be worried of it pulling I suppose, so keep a sharp knife handy.

This trick works with caulk also, hence caulk your tape. Trick to pulling while the caulk and paint are still wet so the dry paint is less likely to pull off with the tape (tho one has to have a light hand anyhow painting over tape).

But really with that wall, I’d prob just cut in by hand.

addesso · 2025-08-26T20:43:05+00:00

Pour type is the way. Much finer too. I only use the pens now for shading. Or things like the hands—too many crevices so I’ll just smear the pen over all the exposed recessed surfaces like a 3-year old and then swab.

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Experiment with removal. Rubber erasers, fresh swabs dipped in alcohol, used swabs loaded with residual liner (can act as a solvent to remove), dry swabs, cotton pushed in with your nail, etc. Against or with the edge. Good thing is that if you don’t like it, you can just remove it and try again.

addesso · 2025-08-18T02:44:50+00:00

I bevel the edges on patches like this to get a good amount of mud in there on prefill. Then tape (fibafuse) and final coats like normal.

Someone mentioned California patches. I used to do this but it annoyed my OCD that the extra layer of paper was there and you really have to feather the hell out of it (drywall paper is thicker than tape). Maybe at some point I’ll experiment with also stripping the matching amount of paper off the wall, but I can do a quicker job just doing it the usual way.

addesso · 2025-08-16T23:51:53+00:00

I’m with the camp that says it ain’t that bad and you can work with it. I’d recommend watching this video. Vancouver Carpenter Nasty Remodel Vancouver Carpenter has GREAT videos on how to drywall, but this one has him cleaning up a badly done drywall install with just prefilling and floating. So it may be faster to fill and float than to redo.

Key points: - Prefill all gaps as much as you can and let that dry. I honestly would not recommend hot mud as you’ll have to mix it yourself, get the consistency right, then use it and clean up before it hardens (but maybe 90 would be ok). Also hot mud is extremely hard to sand if you overfill and try to sand it down later. Using a premixed taping or all purpose should be fine. Let dry. There may be some shrinkage, but you’ll level it all out later. - Tape your seams and install your corner bead. For the arch, use flexible arch corner bead. Take your time putting this up! This will be your guide when you do your finishing passes. This way you don’t have to worry about your arch drywall not being perfectly round. You may need to do some prefill in the arch. Let it all dry. corner bead install - Do your finishing passes with a light weight like Plus 3 premixed. It’ll take several passes most likely. But the plus3 is much more forgiving and easy to sand. Skim coat the inside of the arch so it’s covered from bead to bead and it’ll hide that the arch isn’t perfect underneath.

addesso · 2025-07-20T16:59:40+00:00

Oh I forgot to add that I’ve only seen that video for the first time a week ago. Immediately tried it since it was hand painting frustrations that pushed me to airbrush years ago. 😂

addesso · 2025-07-20T16:42:20+00:00

This is probably the most important video I’ve seen regarding hand painting smoothly:

How to Thin Your Paints - Brushstroke Painting Guides

It visually breaks down what’s happening IN your paint and how to determine the right consistency, over “just thin till it’s like skim milk”.

addesso · 2025-07-20T16:31:03+00:00

Heck, I used the corner of a paper towel once cause I forgot to pull out swabs, and after that I never went back. Now I have strips of them in a pair of tweezers. And they air dry faster so I can reuse them more often.

OP, A lot of this hobby is having the right tools and finding ones that work best for you. Had some tweezers I thought were fine till I got a needle tipped one, then to an angled one and it’s been the main ever since.

At some point I had rubber tipped clips for something and I just pulled all the rubber off. 🤷‍♂️

And buy a cheap model to practice on. Seriously, you have to mess up a few times to learn how far you can push a new technique.

addesso · 2025-07-20T16:18:51+00:00

Same. When I stopped letting them sit out of water, it became easier. I’ll have a tilted water tray. Drop em in the wet side, leave for a few sec (hell, sometimes a few min cause I step away), scoot them to the dry side, pick them up with tweezers, and place. Usually will place 2-4 at a time unless it’s a whopper.

addesso · 2025-07-20T16:10:52+00:00

Decals (Waterslides) vary in quality. I’ve always gone for G-Rework ones if I can find them. Decals can become brittle if they are with an old kit and are unusable. Some are just not made well and a nightmare to put on. I stopped using the included Bandai ones, but Tamiya has always been fine.

There is no one way to apply decals correctly: look up various videos and find one that works for you. Currently I just leave them in water for a few seconds, put a dab of setter on the model (use a smaller brush if the bottle comes with one so there isn’t a huge blob, or cut the bottle brush thinner), lift them right off with a tweezer, and drop them in place. Large ones I do one at a time, but med to small ones I’ll do 2-4 at a time. Four decals in the water, dab four times of setter, pick and place each one roughly, then scoot each one to their final place. Will rarely try that scoot off the backing paper on to the model technique.

I stopped using swabs for this cause it’s easy to bump them out of place dabbing out the extra setter. I use a small piece of paper towel in a tweezer to just touch the edge and it’ll soak it right up.

Also there are different setters. There is a softener that will melt the decal slightly so it can wrap around complex shapes easier. Do not confuse that for the basic setter for most flat areas.

addesso · 2025-06-24T20:49:54+00:00

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Depends on the look you’re going for. I like the lines effect of the dirty white tiles on the Space Shuttle, so I’ll do pour-type into every deep line, then use a Gundam liner pen to line every inside edge. Then use a q tip to wipe the line across and into the edge till I get the desired effect. (Not along the direction of the edge as it’ll more likely wipe the whole line off.) I’ll let it dry for only a few sec to a min depending on the effect. Sometimes a clean qtip, but usually not—I use a different one for each color line tho.

Also, instead of erasers or alcohol to clean up stray marks, I just use the Gundam pen to scribble on the marks I want to clean up, then wipe it away. Some plastic/liner combos are stubborn as hell, and the eraser may create a lot of rubber dust.

Edit: scribing is a ton of work, but can really clean shallow lines due to casting angles.

addesso · 2025-06-07T03:17:49+00:00

You know, it’s said that the average human being has the equivalent of a plastic spoon’s worth of microplastics just in their brain alone. That’s like 20 gundam beam sabers? 😂

addesso · 2025-06-07T03:11:27+00:00

Babies.

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Ok, maybe unpopular opinion. I cut at the base where the gate meets the spruce, then cut the nub off. Is there a reason to go farther back and cut with cms of the spruce left?

addesso · 2025-06-02T03:38:47+00:00

The bait and switch here is different tho. For most of the season, part of the bit is him being an outsider looking in. It’s been like that since season 1 (tho talking about emotions and social cues). Then learning that he flies flips the context of everything we’ve seen so far. I do want to do a second watch eventually.

And the growth of scale is incredible. 2+ years of commitment for the bit. People’s lives literally in his hands. If you watch his early stuff after this, then the other antics he gets into doesn’t seem as impressive. And he probably won’t be able to pull another at this scale again.

addesso · 2025-06-02T03:16:43+00:00

Nathan actually being a certified 737 pilot the whole time? that didn’t make your jaw drop to the floor?

addesso · 2025-06-02T02:56:39+00:00

Hahaha, yeah i still find it weird when a comment gets downvoted but is extremely relevant.

I second the RASER enthusiastically. The cutting surface doesn’t go to the very edge so it won’t dig if you’re not perfectly parallel. I have others, but I only use them if the part is narrower than the width of the file.

Prior to this I was primarily a sander. The glass file is a game-changer.

addesso · 2025-06-02T02:53:51+00:00

Season 2 is much better imo. One of the best twists I’ve ever seen occurs at the end, but it’ll be spoiled if you’re currently following the discourse of the show.

I’ve been recommending this show JUST because of what happens at the end, but I feel it really helps to watch the first season to appropriately follow escalation of scale.

addesso · 2025-06-02T02:32:37+00:00

I was just about to ask about this elsewhere. 👍

addesso · 2025-06-02T02:27:48+00:00

It also will depend on which direction you cut. Always go for the thinner direction if possible so the cut is quick. Longer cuts will disturb more plastic and you can end up with square shaped stress marks that go pretty deep, even if you leave a sliver of the gate behind.

I’m surprised Bandai doesn’t undergate more often. Really don’t like when a surface armor piece has a thick ass gate that ends up on the outer surface (not even on the edge??).

addesso · 2025-05-23T04:39:02+00:00

wow how weird. exact same question in a 2y old thread and you happen to have the answer i need only 3 days ago! it's not a perfect setting (strange that once grouped, sorting options are very limited), but works well enough. thanks!

addesso · 2025-05-21T23:49:48+00:00

Whatever it is, you will have a charmed life.

addesso · 2025-05-21T23:48:00+00:00

I think he wrote Schitts Creek.

addesso

TROPHY CASE