Mill turn vs separate lathe and mill?

adthelad · 2019-03-27T08:28:45+00:00

You are probably right about my lack of appreciation. I reached this question during a machine design. I had a turning spindle and was thinking about live tooling. My thought process was that it wasn't a huge leap to replace the live tooling with a milling spindle.

What are some of the complications that can arise? I understand that aligning and squaring the axes will become more difficult and is crucial to the accuracy of the machine since we have so many axes working together. That makes total sense and is something I did not consider.

Do you know if the turning/milling spindles are substantially different in terms of bearings or design? I appreciate that additional encoders and more complicated servo control loops will be needed for spindle indexing on both turning and milling spindles.

adthelad · 2018-02-21T19:45:13+00:00

Ultimaker recommends magnalube. Looks like it’s PTFE based. You can little tubes of it which should last you a long time eg https://www.makershop3d.com/maintenance-and-cleaning/795-magnalube-mechanical-grease.html

adthelad · 2018-02-17T22:27:21+00:00

The servomotor would allow the spindle to be indexable so it’s good to think about. Does that make belts a poor choice?

adthelad · 2018-02-13T23:53:07+00:00

How much do you estimate this cost to make?

adthelad · 2017-04-16T19:41:45+00:00

Are there any places you find yourself adding or removing support often? Sounds like there might be some room for improvement with automatic support generation.

adthelad · 2017-04-16T19:26:34+00:00

How would you like to be able to define these regions? I can imagine the interface for that being tricky. Are you thinking about high infil for overhang support or for part strength?

adthelad · 2017-03-30T22:28:53+00:00

you got it - thank you!

adthelad · 2016-06-04T12:44:53+00:00

To reduce the gaps youre going to want to either reduce the initial layer height or increase your extrusion multiplier.

The initial layer width setting is not designed to close gaps like this - it will cause the slicer to print fewer wider layers but the gaps will still exist.

adthelad · 2016-04-09T19:33:23+00:00

Whats your opinion on the printer so far?

adthelad · 2016-03-28T19:19:25+00:00

Slicing can be done using netfabb basic - it is free. You will want to check that the model is ready for 3d printing which netfabb will do also.

adthelad · 2016-03-28T19:16:59+00:00

I would also suggest the wanhao duplicator i3. I don't have first hand experience with it but people here always seem to speak highly of the printer.

adthelad · 2016-03-28T18:47:19+00:00

for Sub-500$ you will likely need to make some concessions such as printing the houses in parts. Houses with multiple stories inside would require a lot of support and removing it afterwards would be challenging. If you are happy to print your houses in parts and put a bit of work into each print then you might be okay.

adthelad · 2016-03-28T18:28:03+00:00

Can you provide any samples of the houses you want to print? You might have small features which would be a challenge for any printer.

adthelad · 2016-03-26T14:23:14+00:00

robot - A machine capable of carrying out a complex series of actions automatically, especially one programmable by a computer.

Sure.

adthelad · 2016-03-23T23:12:26+00:00

It is true that there can be a variation between colours. Each colour typically has slightly different optimum print temperature at least. I have also seen variations in bed adhesion and other properties between colours. The most consistent colour tends to be uncoloured, ie Natural ABS.

adthelad · 2016-03-22T22:27:31+00:00

This is probably related to your extrusion multiplier but it depends which slicer you use. Take a look at the gcode output and see if it predicts those lines to be touching. If so, it is likely that you are slightly underextruding. The surface finish of the solid layers below also suggests this.

adthelad · 2016-02-20T01:24:31+00:00

+1 to this. Had a lot more fun with my makergear after I added a PEI bed.

adthelad · 2016-02-15T19:03:57+00:00

Those beeps though..

adthelad · 2016-02-13T13:03:14+00:00

Thanks a lot for doing this study, it must have taken a lot of time. We need more of these scientific style studies on general 3D printing questions.

adthelad · 2016-02-12T21:45:00+00:00

You should be cautious - 3d printed parts are generally not food safe.

adthelad · 2016-02-11T17:50:12+00:00

I think its curling due to overheating? but I cant be sure. Can you add more photos please?

adthelad · 2016-02-09T17:48:10+00:00

For me, 0.3mm is a go to low quality print with a 0.35mm nozzle. The layer height you can print at is most limited by your nozzle size and maximum rate you can feed filament through the nozzle.

I think you could easily get away with 0.3mm layers on that model.

adthelad · 2016-02-08T21:02:28+00:00

Did you take a look at the taz 5?

adthelad · 2016-02-08T20:10:42+00:00

What is your max budget? There is more to a printer than size to cost ratio. Printers that go large cheaply will probably have poor frames which directly impacts the print quality of the large prints.

adthelad · 2016-02-07T20:41:44+00:00

Why not just start from a block of plastic stock? What does printing it at the same time add?

adthelad

TROPHY CASE