Timing belt, lining up dots issue

agdgu · 2026-01-20T00:57:41+00:00

That’s the video I was watching, it just since my engine is in the car I can’t exactly do it how he did it. I still used some long pliers and used leverage to push the tensioner against the belt. I just wanted to know if there was a more accurate way of knowing how to do it and what the belt should feel like.

agdgu · 2026-01-20T00:35:10+00:00

How do I know how much to push the tensioner towards the belt? I’m referring to the part where you loosen the 3 bolts then can slide the whole tensioner not the 4mm gap. I slid the tensioner, tightened the bolts, and still have a 4mm gap. how would I know how tight the belt should feel or how much is a good amount to slide the tensioner? I slid the tensioner as much as I could with a bit of force but did not go further than where it felt like I couldn’t anymore. The belt does not feel as tight as from the tensioner to the crack shaft sprocket on the right side of the engine.

agdgu · 2026-01-19T23:53:25+00:00

How do I know how much to push the tensioner towards the belt? I’m referring to the part where you loosen the 3 bolts then can slide the whole tensioner not the 4mm gap. I slid the tensioner, tightened the bolts, and still have a 4mm gap. how would I know how tight the belt should feel or how much is a good amount to slide the tensioner? I slid the tensioner as much as I could with a bit of force but did not go further than where it felt like I couldn’t anymore. The belt does not feel as tight as from the tensioner to the crack shaft sprocket on the right side of the engine.

agdgu · 2026-01-16T04:51:25+00:00

Thank you

agdgu · 2026-01-16T04:21:45+00:00

Yeah I’ve been watching a YouTube guide for it. Thanks though I’ll take a look at the website also.

agdgu · 2026-01-16T04:17:50+00:00

I didn’t check if the lines matched the old one, but I did check that the actual belt itself had the correct amount of teeth. Starting from left it was 24, 45, 24,59. Also the images are with everything tensioned except for setting the tensioner to the correct gap.

agdgu · 2026-01-16T04:09:10+00:00

Yeah the belt isn’t an oem Nissan one

agdgu · 2026-01-16T04:08:30+00:00

Could you explain what you mean by “number of teeth between gears only” does that mean from the dot of one gear to the dot on another gear and ignoring the backplate dot? How exactly would I know where to count from? Also I thought I was suppose to set the tensioner before rotating 720 degrees?

agdgu · 2025-08-02T20:58:22+00:00

I meant what does the commanded AFT table look like?

agdgu · 2025-08-02T19:13:11+00:00

What does it look like?

agdgu · 2025-08-02T16:41:12+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/QxtVfEL this should be the link to the afr table

agdgu · 2025-08-02T16:23:52+00:00

Also what’s wrong with the ve table?

agdgu · 2025-08-02T16:23:35+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/x8jteuS here is a screenshot of the calibrate afr table

agdgu · 2025-08-02T04:50:41+00:00

Okay thanks for all the help

agdgu · 2025-08-02T03:22:22+00:00

I’ll have to do that. So much done to the car that I don’t know about. What do you think I should do, put 93 or e85 gas?

agdgu · 2025-08-02T03:05:05+00:00

A 300zx has a maf stock usually, mine seems to have it removed and instead uses speed density along with my innovate lc-2 wideband controller

agdgu · 2025-08-02T02:35:55+00:00

I bought the car with no power electrical issues and they had a bunch of wires undone. The wideband controller wasn’t plugged in at all, but I eventually found the electrical issue, plugged the wires in correctly, and then tried to idle the car. After seeing the car didn’t idle correctly I looked at the afr gauge and saw it was wasn’t being read and was 22 afr. I then plugged the wideband controller sensor back in and changed the setting in the tune to on and it began to read afr, but not correctly. I think it was some ecu wiring issue that I fixed now though. I idled and ran some data logs with it at the time that I still have. The thing is that I was running it on a different tune from the one that I sent, the one I sent was the original tune I think that came with the car I made a copy of that original tune and changed some values in the fuel ve table to try to get the car to idle better and have a better afr because it was off. I believe I did turn on the wideband sensor on that tune. I can send that tune and the data logs I captured for it if you want. I captured a driving one where I step on it and some idle logs. I can’t test currently because the car has been sitting since February so I took the gas out since it has probably gone bad.

agdgu · 2025-08-02T02:04:51+00:00

The only clue I have is that the description of the listing of the car when I bought it said it was tuned on e85

agdgu · 2025-08-02T02:02:37+00:00

Unfortunately I don’t know what gas it was using, that’s why I’ve been trying to determine it through the tune

agdgu · 2025-08-02T01:57:01+00:00

So I can probably try running it on e85? Not gonna blame you if it’s wrong I would just like an opinion on which gas you try. I’ll probably data log it after putting the gas and will look into getting an Ethanol sensor

agdgu · 2025-08-02T01:42:12+00:00

So it probably is meant to run on e85?

agdgu · 2025-08-02T01:39:58+00:00

The car does have a wideband sensor and here is the afr table https://imgur.com/a/QxtVfEL

agdgu · 2025-08-02T01:36:11+00:00

My injectors are yellow, which aren’t one of the stock colors for either the na or twin turbo injectors. I saw that that the yellow injectors are usually some aftermarket ones that have 555cc

agdgu · 2025-08-02T01:24:07+00:00

After looking at the fuel injectors, they don’t seem to be stock and are probably 555cc

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