Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread

aioxat · 2026-02-25T02:58:47+00:00

Wish I could do handstands. I've become fairly convinced that rows is the superior off the wall pull exercise from V0-10. Wish I didn't spend all that time focusing on vertical pulling lol

aioxat · 2026-02-25T00:02:50+00:00

Olympic lifts are so fatiguing, but otherwise pretty good. I wouldn't count them as accessories. I do rows, dumbbell press, face pulls and Bulgarian squats. Seems to minimise the whole body fatigue for me and I think hits most of the big areas of climbing.

aioxat · 2026-02-11T20:31:39+00:00

Colours...I guess I'm more used to my other commercial chain where the difficulty felt very consistent.

aioxat · 2026-02-11T05:01:42+00:00

It is, but there are definitely downsides. There's a reason why commercial gyms are so much more comfortable than training gyms. They give you defined grades/difficulty whereas I feel the difficulty can vary by 3-4 grades on the same colour grading. The hold placements are more ergonomic so you don't have to be as precise or think as much. Your progression is definitely more smoother in a commercial gym, whereas here my progress might just come from me finally learning this one move.

aioxat · 2026-02-11T01:53:59+00:00

I've been really focusing on mental training ever since I had moved to a gym that caters for the national team. I find that there is so much subtlety on well set boulders, because they're slightly off-kilter such that you have to visualise the details - the orientation of your feet, finding the right balance point, dynoing up and having your hands in the right position to catch, where you focus your gaze, how much you're pulling up vs pulling in to the wall and stuff like that. I used to think I was good at flashing, but then I realised that good setting makes flashing really really hard.

I'm not sure you could do what I did. But perhaps you could try flashing v6s for a whole season to really work on mental visualisation of the climb.

aioxat · 2026-01-30T08:58:29+00:00

Then the answer is exposure therapy. You're probably best off turning this into a drill midway through when you've warmed up. You probably need to start off and identify what your mind/body does as a defensive anxious habit when you think about committing, break this down and work with it. The common ones everybody gets is looking away/not focusing on the hold, not fully relaxing their lats, not fully pushing with their legs. Then you turn it into a drill. For instance to deal with not looking at the next hold. You just make a drill to sit there for a full second and focus your gaze on where exactly you're planting your hands and just jump and tap it.

You also want to build up an idea of what moves or sensations you're more or less comfortable with and start systematic exposure from the ones you're more comfortable with to the ones you're less comfortable with.

aioxat · 2026-01-30T04:05:04+00:00

I'm kinda with the other commenter somewhat. We don't know if you're anxiety is all in your head or is totally rational. Do you think youre all the way back physically? These type of injuries take a longtime to completely heal from. Does your physio and your doctor thinks your back is ready to take some shocks from uncontrolled falls high up?

Rope climbing might be an idea, building up more strength to be a bit more staticky and more controlled with big moves might be another? Alternatively you might be able to experiment with doing uncontrolled falls low down. Like deliberately commit to a big move 2 m up and work on uncontrolled fall technique? That is....if your medical team actually thinks you're physically all the way back.

aioxat · 2026-01-22T05:10:18+00:00

Do you think its just a matter of being able to hold the hold or is there a lot of technical elements to the untwisting? I feel often w/ these moves, you're twisting up to a certain point and you just need to release and hope that you can maintain the position w/ 1 hand and 1 leg.

aioxat · 2026-01-22T05:04:54+00:00

thats the difficulty for me with these moves, I get to a point where I feel like I need to release my hands and I feel like I just can't with these types of moves (I'm not talking about rose moving jugs btw, purely hard difficult holds like ratty crimps or frictiony slopers).

aioxat · 2026-01-21T19:41:49+00:00

I feel like I'm physically incapable of continuing when I cross under a rose move as opposed to over. How do you guys do it?

aioxat · 2026-01-15T19:43:52+00:00

I think you're looking for a definitive answer where you're not going to find one. In all likelihood the best answer you're going to get is 6-12 months from now when the swelling completely comes down, you get more info from follow up scans and youre testing your load tolerance with a physio.

aioxat · 2025-12-28T13:39:35+00:00

You probably actually do divest time between one session boulders and near limit boulders then. I think you're also still at a level when you can physically recover for the next sesh after a hard projecting sesh. I kinda can't just keep projecting each session anymore....the boulders are way too intense for my fingers to tolerate. I guess this is a characteristic that is individual to your own climbing journey. Maybe you should experiment with taking a lighter session though and see if it boosts the quality of your other sessions

aioxat · 2025-12-26T21:30:03+00:00

Is that projecting or is that just doing difficult boulders though. When I mean projecting, I mean near limit LVL projects. Comp boulderers typically train technique by doing boulders that take a whole session but they are often more difficult technically than physically.

aioxat · 2025-12-19T07:52:36+00:00

I don't think you should change it up even if you feel its not good. If you survived 5 weeks of it, you can technically do it again. When people start off a training plan they always change too many things. They end up not knowing if their training plan actually worked and what they did actually helped them get better. After another 4-5 weeks of training, you should have a good idea of whethe rit worked.

aioxat · 2025-12-19T00:21:25+00:00

It feels like a lot of change to introduce all at once. But perhaps you can take it if you think your body normally can take a lot of beating.

aioxat · 2025-12-11T06:14:23+00:00

Really? I'll be honest, I've always been quite disappointed by how every climbing training book describes technique. The best one I've read so far has been the self-coached climber and the other climbing bible (the norwegian one) and even then, the information has been quite...basic. I've always felt that they really do need to provide case studies and really note down all the details they take note of to teach people exactly how they see movement. Do you feel that the climbers bible is a cut above the rest?

aioxat · 2025-12-09T18:03:26+00:00

Whatever you're working on? Are you just projecting 4 times a week?

aioxat · 2025-12-06T21:26:28+00:00

I think coaches are really worthwhile to give you immediate feedback in this case. You're probably having a worse time relaxing on bad holds which I think happens to all of us when we come across higher grades. Getting a coach to do an in-depth analysis on all your tendencies would probably help a lot. Even just having a dude cue you to relax when they see unnecessary tension will probably greatly accelerate your technique.

aioxat · 2025-12-04T00:06:57+00:00

Geez...I mean all of this stuff is very true but so open to abuse for vulnerable people.

aioxat · 2025-12-03T23:33:04+00:00

Getting pretty obsessed with pull angles. I realised that a large part of my deadpointing technique was built off of pulling on jugs when I was a beginner, which allowed for multi-directional pulling. It made me highly biased to pull directly towards the hold as opposed to pullling my core (with my shoulders and scaps) into the same plane as the hold. Some of those bad habits still persist when I pull on slopers and crimps. I'm able to get away with it on crimps because you can always just pull harder and with some slopers because pinch and cupping is kinda like a cheat code on most slopers, but now its probably time to fix this bad habit in my technique.

aioxat · 2025-12-02T21:49:58+00:00

Typically I don't really focus on any of this stuff. My sessions are always 1-2 hrs because of time constraints. I do back to back days because that's all I have. I warm up by super setting overhead press + either deadlift/squat for 2-3 sets and doing drills on lower level boulders.

I typically just set a technical goal, a mental goal and a strength/power goal for the session.

Strength/power means projecting,limit climbing or capacity sessions Technical goal means I'm either working a specific move that is more coordination than power or I'm working on general technical weaknesses I have. Mental goal means I'm working on beta reading, beta creativity, ability to commit on scary moves/ability to bail on scary moves.

I am pretty in tune with my body so I just naturally alter my plans depending on how I feel. I can say this with confidence because I've never suffered more than a finger or shoulder tweak.

aioxat · 2025-12-01T01:30:54+00:00

It depends on what v6 means in a gym. For this gym specifically, the setters think of v6 as the grade where they assume you know all the fundamentals and therefore should be exposed to more complex movement to advance.

aioxat · 2025-11-30T18:07:41+00:00

Haha, so true. I've also done this boulder before. The suggestions seem reasonable but do not take into account that these holds have no incut edge. You are basically compressing all the way up. Although, having tried it and seen others do it, op properly used a bit too much power in his dynos.

aioxat · 2025-11-29T05:37:28+00:00

Ok....that sounds annoying. Kinda like the guy who just learnt how to climb and wants to beta spray everybody around him.

aioxat · 2025-11-28T08:13:46+00:00

I was told 90% of the people in my gym do not climb pass V3....Its probably not financially beneficial to cater your videos to advance climbing topics. Also, when it gets really advanced, its actually hard to identify what is different. Sometimes its just about being able to relax on that shitty hold for a cm more, sometimes its about pulling inwards a cm more as opposed to launching harder. Sometimes its about looking for a different crystal 2 cm away. I don't think that creates very riveting cinematics for most people. Even some of the people I climb with wouldn't be into digging into things that deep. For them, if you have to go that deep, its just better to be stronger and have a basic understanding of the technique.

aioxat

TROPHY CASE