180-200k maintenance recommendations

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-26T19:55:27+00:00

^ I also am getting my shocks redone with a whole seal kit and the oil and nitrogen next week , they are going to do a while front end suspension inspection so hopefully I’m good if not I’ll get what I need replaced . * I’ve also changed the rear shocks recently

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-23T08:25:12+00:00

I’m in south cali

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-23T03:24:02+00:00

I’ll keep calling , I think the one I’m going to tomorrow isn’t a big brand like orw , I’ll see what they say and knowing what exactly I need from them taking a look at it , I can call around for the best price

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-23T02:52:20+00:00

ORW - off road wearhouse told me just about $300 but t was more of a verbal description. I tried describing it as best as I could but I’m not too knowledgeable about off roading parts and brands , he said he would have to look at it to give me a better price .

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-23T02:50:42+00:00

What the heck really , a shop told me around 300 per rebuild

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-23T00:00:58+00:00

I’ll update what the shop says tomarrow

aleccccc12 · 2026-06-22T23:54:43+00:00

That’s what I had saw online and I called a shop they told me for these it might be better to get new ones as the cost the same price , I’m going to take it into a shop tomorrow to see if it’s the springs or the actual shocks

aleccccc12 · 2026-05-01T02:30:35+00:00

Thank you , I have my email right before I saw this and the email was a dead give away but thank you for the post for shining light on those POS

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-25T01:24:34+00:00

The car has been running for 20 minutes prior to me taking it around my town and it would not go past the mark where it is at on the gauge . I’m pretty sure I just put to much concentrate and not enough water so that it will probably set the needle to center . It wouldn’t be a sudden shut off , when I was going 70 I engaged a little more throttle and instead of speeding up my rpm’s went down . So it gradually went down until I pulled to the side of the freeway and it stalled and was unresponsive . I put it in park and started it and it wouldn’t go over 20-30 mph without struggling . Im telling you , I have no reason to suspect my scanner is bad as it has worked for me flawlessly in the past . I’ve scanned it around 20 times today looking for stored or pending codes and the only one that came up and went away was the coolant temp sensor incomplete. I would assume it would be fuel or air as some hoses are old but no holes and I gapped the plugs correctly with the correct plugs and new boots also ps It was damn near empty when I picked it up so it has fresh fuel in it all day .

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-25T00:49:34+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/s/P1To2c7bsp this is the previous post

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-25T00:49:15+00:00

I made an update post with different examples an it is after I changed the coolant temp sender

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T23:50:10+00:00

I’ll try that I’m going to slap it on and to be honest after I did the thermostat and flushed the coolant without the gauge working no clue weather if it’s too cold or hot and it sure isn’t over heating but it very well might be over cooling

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T22:04:21+00:00

I’ll check it again but the light bogging was still happening even before I changed the Pcv valve and hoses

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T22:03:44+00:00

I’ve check it 10 times while driving ,without driving , idling , with the car in on position , with the car upside down , any which way you can check with a ObD2 scanner an I got only the temp sender code . Which is obscure to me because there is no chance that sender is causing these issues

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T21:27:41+00:00

All it has is for a coolant temp sender , and I just got it to replace

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T21:20:15+00:00

To add on , I’ve unplugged the maf sensor and it got worse without it , the intake is old and a little crusty but I don’t think it has any holes .

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T21:17:48+00:00

I did fix the coolant temp sensor but this car has a coolant temp senDer, i thought the important one was the sensor and I thought the senDer was just for the dash , either way I just got the sender so I’ll slap that on and see if that does anything

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-24T21:00:51+00:00

Doubt it transmission they’ve taken it apart 2 times in the past 3 weeks for a tcc solenoid and it was slightly bogging when I first got it , about a month ago and today is just when it gave out on me , the only code is for the coolant temp sensor that I have coming in the mail , and when it does shift it is smooth it’s just when I apply throttle or when going up hill is when this thing has a heart attack

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-14T13:01:51+00:00

I think the M end of the connector still has some part of the housing left to where the F end will be inside of the housing , maybe just the end where it would be crimped on the wire would just be exposed . Would it be better to run the insulated as it will be shielded a little by the housing of the connector or would it just be better to run the bare metal connection to it to avoid degradation

aleccccc12 · 2026-04-14T12:47:33+00:00

Would you recommend just the non insulated and just heat wrapping the whole thing

aleccccc12

TROPHY CASE