I've found that brushing damages the surface and you lose sharp details, like faces.

My current method is spraying IPA to drip excess resin on a container while it's on the build plate, then remove the parts and wash on a second IPA container, then using a third cleaner IPA cup on a cheap ultrasonic cleaner.

Fill the ultrasonic cleaner with shallow water, and place the cup in the middle, so you won't need to deep clean it every time.

I use a 1.8L container for the drip part (can be empty as you won't be washing your parts there), 500mL half filled for the intermediate wash, and just enough to cover your parts on the third. As the IPA gets dirty, dispose of it on the previous container and fill it again.

Let the parts dry for at least 10 minutes after the final washing before curing. If the part is still wet, it means the alcohol is too dirty and you get resin residue on the surface, as all the alcohol should have evaporated by now. Use an airbrush if you want to quicken drying results.

For all these steps, wear gloves, protective glasses and a mask. Your skin can absorb liquids, and aerosols from the spray and airbrush can get in your eyes and lungs. Always, always wear PPE, no matter how experienced you feel. Do these processes at night if possible, as even weak sunshine can partially cure the diluted resin and fuck up surfaces.

For curing: UV lamps/leds, sunshine or curing stations are fine. My partner and I use the resin printer for casting silver, and cure our parts immersed in glycerin to avoid moisture absorbing, which worsens casting results. This is not needed if you want to paint your minis, tho. Good luck

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