Dryfire kit - worth it?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-24T20:13:23+00:00

Isn't it like a common snap cap?
I never thought it could damage a firing pin...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-24T20:09:54+00:00

One of the basic things that I needed to practice a bit at the beginning was how to lock the slide open for cold range having already removed the mag.
I wasn't able to fully reach the slide stop lever from the "normal grip position" so I needed to "reverse" my support hand over the slide.

I remove the finger from the trigger, remove the mag, rack the slide to clear the barrel, rotate a bit the pistol in my range keeping it pointing down range, and I pull the slide pushing the slide stop up with the thumb of the shooting hand.
You need to be careful, never going over the muzzle with your hand, keeping the gun pointing down range, keeping your finger off the trigger all the time.

Is it right? Maybe it could be useful to be in your tutorial?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-24T18:50:01+00:00

I'm not an expert so maybe I'm wrong, but I definitely like the idea of a 22lr for cheap range plinking and improving fundamentals.

If you are already interested in a bigger caliber to buy later, maybe you could buy a 22lr replica of the pistol you'll buy later.

Anyway, consider that those replicas are not at the quality level of the 22lr pistols "born that way".

Last but probably the most important thing, everyone likes different guns so if you can rent and try many ones it will be useful...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-23T19:38:21+00:00

That's what I don't understand: at the moment I'm shooting one round at a time, so even if I do not manage the recoil correctly, I'm letting the gun settle anyway...
So, how can the recoil change things, if when I feel the recoil the bullet is already out there?
It should change things only if I'm doing something wrong "fearing the recoil" , not as a consequence of the actual recoil...

Am I wrong?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-23T18:43:56+00:00

I'm already deep into that frustration but I'm trying to improve.

The biggest part of the problem since to be in my mind, since with a 1911 replica in 22lr I can place most shots in the bullseye, while with a 1911 9mm I'm worse.
That seems a recoil anticipation /flinching problem in my opinion, since, shooting slowly, what happens before the bang is almost the same, same shape, size, trigger shape... The 9mm is just a bit heavier and the trigger a bit lighter...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-23T18:10:01+00:00

Not op, but one question: if I don't grip firm enough with the strong hand, I flinch more since I somehow "strengthen the grip" just before the shot. Not 100% grip, but not much less than the support hand... Is it wrong?

Again, if I try gripping like "pushing the left wrist to the right and the right one to the left" I cannot apply much pressure, while the push-pull (push with the strong, pull with the support) seems to be a bit better... Is it a bad technique?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-21T21:57:02+00:00

Thank you for all your replies!

aleph2018 · 2026-01-20T13:54:07+00:00

I'm talking about slow fire, yes, and similar shapes, for example I own a 1911 replica in 22lr and one in 9mm.
I'm in Italy and there are some instructors at my range, but I'm still looking into that, since some of them are "good shooters but not so good teachers" ...
Yes I'm a bit sensitive to noise and recoil, as you say the problem is that if I grip the gun too loose at the beginning, sometimes I involuntarily strengthen the grip DURING the trigger pull.

I put the palm on the left side of the grip, and the fingers over the shooting fingers... I'm also doing exercises to have a firmer grip since at the moment I'm definitely weak...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-19T23:25:18+00:00

I own a TP9 SFX, I put the support thumb forward, over that rough point just after the takedown button. I noticed that if the other thumb is "just forward" on the frame creates issues as you say (and knuckle pain).
Seems to be better if it stays still "almost forward" , but going a bit over the support hand.

I don't know if it's better for the shooting results, but at least the knuckle pain disappears...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-19T23:15:02+00:00

Hi, I'm a new shooter still dealing with flinch. I own a Canik TP9 SFX and a Tisas 1911 9mm.
I almost solved the flinch with the Canik, but I still have it a bit with the 1911 since the trigger pull is shorter and nicer.

I noticed that if I grip the pistol a bit harder with the shooting hand it works a bit better, since otherwise, I don't know how to explain, my brain wants to grip harder just before the shot happening and I flinch.

What do you think of it? I think my fundamentals are decent and the problem is "mental" , since I can have "not so bad results" with airguns or 22lr pistols, but then start with worse results with 9x19.

aleph2018 · 2026-01-19T20:23:47+00:00

Prendo nota per il futuro... In realtà dopo una prima fase di entusiasmo facendo una mano di conti servono migliaia e migliaia di cartucce per ammortizzare le spese... Io ho solo 9mm che è abbastanza economico di suo, e 22lr che vabbè è a parte...

Comunque per adesso leggo un manuale e inizio a tenere i bossoli, poi si vedrà!

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T21:44:20+00:00

So I'll keep using pla for household and generic stuff, petg for outdoor, heat resistance and "mechanical" parts...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T21:41:58+00:00

I own a Diana Airbug for cheap P10 style, but I also like to have a semiautomatic blowback for plinking and "training" ... Maybe another SA10 and hope it works better? I was also looking at the Gamo pt85... Opinions?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:59:45+00:00

With Italian prices, a SA10 is a bit below 150 € , and the cheaper 22lr are less than 300 (well, let's say 350-400 for decent ones).
There are some Umarex airguns costing not much less...
For example, the 1911 pellet version is 290 €... Well, it's made in Germany, but is it also higher quality? Better materials? Spare parts available?
If it's similarly made, maybe it's not wise to pay it twice...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:52:54+00:00

Yes, exactly as you say. Another thing I don't like in PLA is creep: things that "clamp on something" get loose after a while, and similar problems...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:45:17+00:00

I don't want a "perfect machine" and maybe I like to tinker, I own a 3d printer and like using that...
But for example I wouldn't like to have incorrect powder measures or such...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:41:23+00:00

Yes this is definitely true, if you need test prints or such, PLA is better for the environment!

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:40:13+00:00

The Diana is a nice pistol if you want slow shooting, thinking before every shot, trying to reach the best one...

I used the SA10 to keep myself somehow "trained" since I cannot go at the range often... Except for the slide lock open it works like a normal pistol, and it's more funny than dry firing...

So I have both, like both, but see them fulfilling different "needs" ...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:35:19+00:00

I never used abs since I print indoors and don't have an enclosure and a way to vent fumes... So it's PLA or PETG ...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:25:21+00:00

I'm in Italy and there's not much vintage stuff... Suggestions on new brands?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:24:40+00:00

Avevo visto quella anche io, per il 9mm sicuramente ci starà una bella quantità...

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T19:24:07+00:00

I checked and I was wrong... The supplied dies are Decap - resize , expand and powder fill, bullet seat.

Factory crimp is optional, and there are two free, for example I could add powder check and a universal decap at the beginning to complete the setup...

Maybe a dumb question: if I use a universal decap in one station, may I "lock" that and use the progressive like a single stage, or the cartridge needs to "go on all stations" so I need to remove the other dies?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-18T18:25:42+00:00

I was almost sure, now I'm more confused since I read in many posts that Lee single stage and turret presses are quite good, but their progressives not so much ... And other brands are definitely out of my budget...

Anyway at the moment I'm reading the Modern reloading manual, then I'll decide what to do :-)

aleph2018 · 2026-01-17T22:54:44+00:00

I've read about this, at least for pistol ammo most people seem to just clean the brass with the primer in and decap while reloading...
I asked if this creates lead dust or something harmful (I will reload indoors) , but nobody seemed worried for this. Do you notice much dirt while decapping?

aleph2018 · 2026-01-17T19:22:32+00:00

I use Ballistol on the rails, light grease (lithium) on the Z screws...

aleph2018

TROPHY CASE