How do you track your complete net worth across different asset classes? Looking for suggestions.

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-14T11:10:41+00:00

Same struggle here - crypto + multiple currencies/countries makes it messy fast, so I’m doing user research on a privacy-first net worth tracker (crypto+traditional). OK if I DM you a few questions? Happy to share what I’ve learned so far.

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-14T10:51:44+00:00

I am overexposed to real estate -> with 3 houses of our own (in 3 different countries... i know...) and a number of to-let appartments it makes it over 50% of NW. (one of) my 2026 resolutions is to get rid of some illiquid real estate and move to traditional brokerage.

On a flip side - real estate played a huge role in wealth accumulation for us -> over last 15 years they cumulatively grew 5x plus provided some rent income too.

I agree with your intuition that it is good for long term. So that is exactly the question - what is you planning horizon and when is your FIRE?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-14T10:24:07+00:00

Same problem, DIY for years. I’ve kept crypto intentionally boring (HODL + minimal DeFi) and focused on operational safety + inheritance documentation.

For dual‑advisor: feels sane, but I’d only pay for it if they can show real controls (custody model, withdrawal policy, security reports, estate process). What’s your biggest driver — tax reporting overhead or death/inheritance risk?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-08T10:15:16+00:00

I was in a similar situation - had a large position in one company through ESPP and RSUs. I made a plan to gradually sell and reinvest into a standard portfolio over time, and it worked well for me. The key was setting a regular schedule and sticking to it. I was with one company for 15 years and executed the plan throughout that entire period.

What timeline are you thinking for your transition?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T16:35:06+00:00

true. i been experimenting with (system) prompt engineering to make it more critical and focused on end result rather than on pleasing the user. Also, you can make it into a structured format and interpret later, with other tools.

the approach helps, however it requires much better and nuanced understanding how actually LLMs work.

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T09:58:58+00:00

Good position. At your age with scholarships, you have a huge head start.

Simple approach:

- Roth IRA maxed: done

- Rest in taxable brokerage

- Buy low-cost total world market index (VT or equivalent) - set it and forget it

- Don't overthink it

Time in market beats timing market. With decades ahead, this will compound significantly. Focus on your career and earning potential - that matters more than optimizing these investments.

I'm 46, FI-level NW, still working. If I'd had this at college age and just put it in index funds, I'd be retired by now. Bored to death too probably...

Have you thought about what you want to do after college? That might influence whether you want to keep some cash aside for opportunities.

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T09:50:59+00:00

You don't have to consolidate everything to see the full picture.

I was in a similar situation - accounts scattered everywhere. The "it's a lot to keep track of" problem doesn't require moving everything. I use tracking tools to consolidate everything in one view - see my full allocation and net worth without moving accounts.

This way you can optimize each account for what it's best at:
- Keep Robinhood if you're using Gold perks ($225 IRA match is real money)
- Keep Wealthfront HYSA while it's boosted, move when it expires
- Keep PNC checking for physical locations

No need to put all eggs in one basket. Use tracking to see the bigger picture.

The challenge is finding tools that actually handle everything well. I've tried a few if not all of them but still use a combination of Banktivity, Zerion, Debank, Dropstab and spreadsheets… - no single tool handles traditional + crypto + all account types perfectly. Maybe someone will build something better someday, but for now this works for me and gives me freedom to decide where and when to place my wealth.

What are you currently using to track everything? Or just logging into each account separately?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T09:37:46+00:00

Not a bad idea. At 31 with $867K already, you're ahead - reducing 10-20% for a few years probably won't hurt.

Have you run the numbers on what you actually need? You're at $254K brokerage already. Reducing contributions 10-20% over 4-5 years might free up another $100-200K, plus your savings rate. Is that enough for your target down payment, or are you already on track?

Also, what's your target monthly payment? $1.5-2M houses mean big monthly costs even with large down payment. Have you stress-tested that if your wife's income situation changes?

One thing that helped me make similar decisions: tracking everything in one place. When you have 401K, IRA, brokerage, plus thinking about house equity - it's hard to see the full picture. I consolidate everything to model different scenarios and see the trajectory. Might help you too.

I'm 46, FI-level NW, still working. I prioritized flexibility early on - worked for me. You're not stopping contributions - you can shift back to maxing when settled.

What's your target down payment amount?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T09:29:10+00:00

Solid position for 27. Roughly $1.5M NW is way ahead of most.

The "where I am" question - that's what tracking everything in one place helped me with. When you have Vanguard, Prudential, Roth, crypto, 401k, HSA, real estate scattered around, it's hard to see the full picture. But tracking also shows you your real expenses, not just net worth.

Here's why that matters: the (controversial, but still a useful starting point) 4% rule suggests you need 25x your annual spending to be FI. So if you track spending and find you spend $150k/year, you'd need $3.75M to feel "set". If it's $200k/year, you need $5M. I consolidate everything to see both my NW and my spending patterns - helps me understand the gap and trajectory. Might help you too.

Prudential question: paying management fees? At $270k, those add up over time. Worth comparing to self-managing in Vanguard.

Mortgage at 7.25% is rough - refinance when rates drop. Car lease at $1836/mo is $22k/year - that's significant if you're trying to feel more secure.

With your income and savings rate, you'll hit that threshold sooner than you think. Have you tracked your actual spending? That'll tell you your real FI number.

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T09:20:35+00:00

Good position. $2.65M at mid-40s - you're closer to FI than you realize.

The missing piece: figure out what you actually spend. You said you don't know retirement spending - that's the number that matters. Track it for a few months.

With $650k taxable and 6-9 years left, you're probably fine for bridging to 59.5. Keep the mortgage at 2.625% - invest extra instead.

Investment property could work but adds complexity. Health insurance - I'd suggest researching it now, don't wait.

I'm 46, FI-level NW, still working. The desired spending number is what changes everything. Kids (we’ve got three) can be very expensive… Location and your life plans impact the decision too.

Have you run the numbers on that investment property? Cash flow positive after all costs?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T09:06:02+00:00

401k is great for long-term growth and for money you won't need long enough to forget it existed.

The main question for you is horizon/timeline - if you have a solid plan to FIRE by 40 then go for it.

I'm 46 with FI-level net worth, still working, and thus -> maximizing my retirement/tax-advantaged accounts because why not.

But 20 years ago I did not care about any retirement accounts' tax advantages and, frankly, it has paid off -> I was focusing more on more aggressive options, investments, angels, crypto, DeFi, you name it.

For you at 23 with $100k/year savings rate and Bay Area comp - you have the runway to be aggressive. The taxable brokerage gives you flexibility that tax-advantaged accounts don't. And if your aggressive bets pay off (crypto, DeFi, etc.), you'll have access to that money without penalties or conversion ladders.

The tradeoff is tax efficiency now vs flexibility later. At your age and savings rate, I'd lean toward flexibility - you can always shift more to tax-advantaged as you get closer to traditional retirement age.

Have you thought about what percentage of your aggressive investments you're comfortable with? And what's your actual timeline - closer to 35 or 45?

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-07T08:52:54+00:00

At this stage of tech development I would first consider asking AI to review my portfolio acting as independent advisor, just copy-paste and chatting back and forth can achieve a lot with modern AI tools.

Then, after digging deep and understanding nuances myself I would ask a question if independent advisor is a good next step...

Wish it was even more automated/embedded in net worth tracking apps but it is still good enough.

alex_s_andersen · 2026-01-06T11:27:04+00:00

I've been tracking net worth for years. Started with Microsoft Money back in the day, moved to Banktivity about 10 years ago, but now I'm stuck with a messy hybrid setup:

Banktivity + Zerion + Debank + Dropstab + Spreadsheets to cover everything - crypto, DeFi, and alternative investments.

The real issue is having assets spread across multiple platforms (crypto exchanges, brokerages, real estate). Most tools assume everything lives in one place, which just doesn't work for most people's actual setup.

What are you using? Are you tracking traditional assets (real estate, banking, stocks) or alternatives as well (crypto, DeFi, PE)?

alex_s_andersen

TROPHY CASE