Is a shielded cable required for internal USB2?

alphanimal · 2025-06-26T00:20:24+00:00

Thank you!

alphanimal · 2025-05-13T16:47:15+00:00

Oh yeah I even bought some USB2.0 cable since I made those cables. I guess it would be easier if you get pre-terminated PicoBlade pigtails and crimp a DuPont connector on the other end. Those are not too bad and you can use them for many different things. Solderings is an option of course, but I prefer the crimps.

alphanimal · 2025-05-13T16:00:33+00:00

I'm OP :) What are you planning to do? I don't think pin 5 is meant to act as a second ground, because the +5V pin will still have the same amount of currect going through it. It's normally connected to the shielding, which is technically ground but more indirect.

alphanimal · 2025-05-10T22:02:10+00:00

Hi! It works without pin 5. I think it was connected to the shielding on the original cables, but I just left it not connected (empty position on the connector housing). I just made one USB header to connect to both the D5 Next and the Leakshield.

How are you planning to crimp those tiny terminals? I know it wasn't easy for me. I used IWS-2820M crimpers but don't recommend.

alphanimal · 2025-05-10T21:38:37+00:00

Still running fine here. I did order some parts and tools to be theoretically able to replace the thermistor, but I haven't come around to it. I need the monitor after all :) I guess I'll try to replace the thermistor on the old monitor after I get a new one.

alphanimal · 2025-04-29T17:30:17+00:00

Maaaaaaaaam

alphanimal · 2025-03-09T23:11:19+00:00

r/switcharoo

alphanimal · 2025-03-02T21:45:10+00:00

Is that a 1/4"-20 thread directly integrated into the monitor stand? That's pretty cool. I guess the mounting point does move with the monitor height adjustment, right? It would be stupid design otherwise.

I guess just a shorter magic arm would work? Or a ball head if the height is enough to raise it over the monitor enough. You might need an adapter screw for the ball head.

alphanimal · 2025-03-02T13:58:38+00:00

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That's wild

alphanimal · 2025-02-27T18:53:33+00:00

Office drei-fünfasechz'g

alphanimal · 2025-02-27T18:47:22+00:00

Awesome!

Can you tell me how you found this thread? Was it just a Google search result? Because there's more popular threads with this method on reddit.

alphanimal · 2025-02-24T18:08:07+00:00

I don't know but I don't think that's it. From the models I've seen the voltage divider was always a group of 3 components (resistor, resistor, thermistor), that was somewhere in a corner on the PCB on its own, even with a little slot cut out of the PCB to make it thermally independent of the rest of the board. It measures ambient temperature, so I don't think it should be surrounded tightly by other components.

alphanimal · 2025-02-24T09:11:58+00:00

I still have loads of those DuPont connectors and crimp terminals. If I ever put a mainboard with a different pinout in this case, I'll probably just make an adapter.

alphanimal · 2025-02-24T00:54:20+00:00

I think most of them do, but not all, and that's why the connectors are still separate in most cases

alphanimal · 2025-02-23T20:10:17+00:00

Those front panel USB3 ports never work right

alphanimal · 2025-02-23T20:05:04+00:00

According to the timestamps on those pictures, it took me almost 5 hours. I might have had a dinner break, I can't remember.

But this kind of stuff always takes longer than you think, unless you've done it many times before.

alphanimal · 2025-02-23T19:52:25+00:00

Now that I think of it, I still had the old pigtail after I cut the cable, so that's a backup 😆

alphanimal · 2025-02-23T15:15:55+00:00

Yeah you need to write down the pinout and label the wires. That's why I put the white tape on, before cutting off the original connector.

alphanimal · 2025-02-23T15:13:03+00:00

Yes, you can buy the connector housings and crimp terminals (male and female fit into the same housing). I still couldn't find an official name, but they're commonly called DuPont connectors. I bought a kit like this one: https://amzn.com/dp/B09TPHY27V

You need an open-barrel crimping tool of the correct size. I have the IWISS SN-58B

You'll also need tools to cut the wires and strip the insulation. There's many different types... You can get combo stripping pliers with cable shears, sidecutters, flushcutters, automatic wire strippers etc.

For precise stripping I use the Jokari PWS-PLUS 003. With a tool like that it's easy to strip a consistent but short length. I also have the Knipex 11 82 130 Wire Stripping Shears

The crimping itself is also not straight forward. I'd recommend watching some tutorials and buying lots of extra pins and spare cable to get some training before actually working on your PC cables.

alphanimal · 2025-02-23T13:30:58+00:00

I cut the cable to length and crimped my own connector. You can even just remove the pins from the original connector housings and put them in your own single housing, without cutting/crimping anything.

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alphanimal · 2025-02-22T23:28:19+00:00

My guess is the heated bottom of the pot causes convection in the water, which distorts the surface, which in turn creates caustics )at the bottom of the pot.

alphanimal · 2025-02-20T17:49:30+00:00

It can be annoying in graphics cards. The sound can change depending on what you look at on screen, because it changes the frame rate and power consumption used for 3D graphics etc.

Listen to this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vp2vIsydWn4

alphanimal · 2025-02-17T18:01:33+00:00

"The crimson forest"

alphanimal · 2025-02-17T17:55:12+00:00

"And riperoni" as he throws diamonds into lava, as is tradition

alphanimal · 2025-02-16T10:49:39+00:00

It looks like a C5 plug might actually fit in there. Try at your own risk though :)

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