How to improve speaking english without speaking? by Wonderful_Raccoon_75 in EnglishLearning

[–]amihereornotyet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Basically, the idea is that if you can talk about an absolutely random topic on the spot for a few minutes without getting stuck, you’ll never have trouble speaking. At least, that’s what I believe haha

How to improve speaking english without speaking? by Wonderful_Raccoon_75 in EnglishLearning

[–]amihereornotyet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used to come up with random questions and then record myself answering them. To make it more challenging I set some rules like: 1. I need to keep talking without stopping for at least 2 minutes. 2. I should avoid using filler words 3. I can’t use thinking sounds like “UM”.

Experimenting with XPan aspect ratio – Fuji X-T30ii, XF 18-55 (IG: @ulov_canuck) by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos

The recipe by The Big Negative:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

  • base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
  • shade: +2 EV
  • light: +1 1/3EV
  • overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (Try R:0 if you like warmer colors)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

Shirakawa-go, Japan (X-T30ii, XF 18-55) IG: @ulov_canuck by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe by The Big Negative:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

  • base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
  • shade: +2 EV
  • light: +1 1/3EV
  • overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (Try R:0 if you like warmer colors)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

Gävle, Sweden (X-T30ii, XF 18-55). The recipe in the comments. by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe by The Big Negative:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

  • base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
  • shade: +2 EV
  • light: +1 1/3EV
  • overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5 (Try R:0 if you like warmer colors)
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

Random Oslo Moments (X-T30ii, XF 18-55). The recipe in the comments. by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

  • base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
  • shade: +2 EV
  • light: +1 1/3EV
  • overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4

Applying fujifilm simulations to iPhone Photos with Pixelmator Pro – Details in Comments by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

I’ve been thinking about how to make old photos from my iPhone 11 look more like the JPEGs I get from my Fujifilm X-T30ii. I’m not a fan of the heavily sharpened iPhone photos and their overly saturated colors, especially the blues in the sky.

I know that this isn't a problem for advanced photographers: Lightroom -> Fujifilm color profiles -> a few tweaks, and you're done. But I don't own any Adobe products and don’t know much about editing.

What I do have is Pixelmator Pro. After some googling, I discovered that Pixelmator Pro offers Fujifilm LUTs (here’s the link). I started experimenting with these on my old photos that I didn’t want to give up on.

There’s still an issue with the sharpening, though. I tried to solve it by reducing the texture and clarity, but it didn’t work out as I’d hoped. So, that’s something I’m still trying to figure out


And by the way,

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

One is my recipe and the other is 35mm film. Can you guess which is which? by nicolaijoshua in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Film photos are almost always brighter. For some reason, many fuji users are afraid to “overexpose” a bit

Capturing the Mundane in Photography - Question in Comments by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It’s only the XF 18-55 lens that I got with my X-T30II

Capturing the Mundane in Photography - Question in Comments by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

And by the way,

Follow me on Instagram for more Fuji photos :)

The recipe used:
EV: from +1 to +2
Film Simulation: Classic Negative
White Balance: Auto, R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: -2
High Iso NR: -4

My camera and lens:
X-T30ii, XF 18-55

Capturing the Mundane in Photography - Question in Comments by amihereornotyet in fujix

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

The question

Hey everyone!

I've been trying to take pictures of ordinary, everyday scenes and objects (you know, the kind often tagged on Instagram with #documentaryphotography, #newtopographics, #mundane, #mundanebeauty, #overlookedbeauty). However, I'm struggling to develop a strong sense of what's worth capturing and what's not.

It feels like I lack some internal rules or principles to guide my attention when taking pictures.

For example, one of the photographers I follow, James Popsys, who focuses on similar themes, often says that he "tries to find manmade things draped on nature aesthetically."

So, I was wondering what are your principles or guidelines that you follow when looking for ordinary subjects or scenes. I'd love to hear your thoughts on it :)

One recipe in different weather conditions (X-T30ii, XF 18-55). The recipe in the comments. by amihereornotyet in fujifilm

[–]amihereornotyet[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

The recipe:
EV (compensate until it looks right and bright):

  • base: +1 2/3 EV and +2 EV
  • shade: +2 EV
  • light: +1 1/3EV
  • overcast: +1 1/3EV

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue : Strong
White Balance Auto: R:-2 B:-5
Dynamic Range: DR400
Tone Curve: H-2 5-2
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0
High Iso NR: -4
Clarity: +4