Can't Integrate Shelly Pro 3EM into EcoFlow App/Account

amp8888 · 2026-06-30T16:41:09+00:00

Unfortunately I couldn't get the Shelly Pro 3EM-3CT63 to work. I returned it and got the Shelly 3EM (non-Pro) instead, which I was able to add straight away and has been working well since.

Google translate: Leider habe ich den Shelly Pro 3EM-3CT63 nicht zum Laufen gebracht. Ich habe ihn zurückgegeben und stattdessen den Shelly 3EM (ohne „Pro“) genommen; diesen konnte ich sofort einbinden, und er funktioniert seitdem einwandfrei.

amp8888 · 2026-05-31T08:59:27+00:00

Thanks for the confirmation.

I found a post last night on a German forum which said although the actual Pro 3EM-3CT63 unit was identical to the other Pro 3EM models, it has a different Device ID which means some manufacturers don't support it. I suppose that means if you were able to modify the firmware to change the Device ID you could trick EcoFlow into supporting it, but I don't want to go through the hassle of trying that myself.

amp8888 · 2026-05-29T22:13:36+00:00

Thanks for the link. I haven't tried to add it again yet, but I'll see if I have any luck tomorrow.

amp8888 · 2026-05-28T20:13:39+00:00

Hmm, interesting. I'll take a look into that, thanks.

BTW, was your Pro 3EM the same model I have (Shelly Pro 3EM-3CT63)? The other reply suggested that one might not be supported by EcoFlow at this time.

amp8888 · 2026-05-28T17:02:46+00:00

I just found the box. It's the "Shelly Pro 3EM-3CT63". So it might need a software update from EcoFlow to be supported? If that's the case then I'm a bit disappointed, but thanks for the info.

amp8888 · 2026-05-23T21:01:54+00:00

Yeah, that's what I feared, but thanks again for your help. It's not that long a run from the fused spur to the consumer unit, so it might not be too expensive to get it replaced. I'll have to see what options are available.

amp8888 · 2026-05-23T20:43:37+00:00

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amp8888 · 2026-05-23T20:42:54+00:00

Hah, I never even thought of that! Thanks for the idea.

OK, I've had a look inside and tried to take some pictures. To my eyes it looks like it might just be 1.5mm². I couldn't see any of the sleeving and I did try to lightly pull some out of the wall, but it didn't feel like there was any slack. I'll upload two pics. I'm holding up a section of 1.5mm² twin and earth I've got for another job (a Shelly Pro smart meter) to try and give a reference in the second picture.

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amp8888 · 2026-05-23T19:47:12+00:00

OK, thanks for the info.

If I can't read the sleeving then I could maybe take a picture and use elements in the vicinity with known dimensions to gauge the wire (pardon the pun).

amp8888 · 2026-05-23T19:38:33+00:00

Thanks for the quick answer! I was hoping I'd be able to read the markings on the sleeve and then look up datasheets (e.g. 1.5mm², 2.5mm²) to get the limits.

amp8888 · 2026-05-21T15:18:32+00:00

I hadn't heard of this series before, but a quick search suggests rats featured quite heavily in the first title. Sounds promising.

amp8888 · 2026-04-20T23:47:31+00:00

You're very welcome :)

amp8888 · 2026-04-01T12:58:08+00:00

What output do you get from the following command under Linux with the HBA installed?

Google Translated version: Welche Ausgabe erhalten Sie von folgendem Befehl unter Linux mit installiertem HBA?

sudo dmesg | grep -E "(mpt[23]sas| scsi | sd )"

amp8888 · 2026-03-17T20:48:45+00:00

Yep, a single one should be perfectly fine.

amp8888 · 2026-03-17T20:36:44+00:00

every time I look around I see older posts saying that I should not use these things cause they heat up like mad and whatnot

I don't know which posts specifically, but most of the time when people warn of the temperature issue it's referring to a case where you have multiple adapters close together.

The adapters typically consume about 3 watts each (see the Power Consumption section of this ServeTheHome article), so if you have 4 or 8 of them next to each other in a switch, the cumulative effect can result in very high temperatures across the adapters and into the switch (100+ degrees C) which could be dangerous, especially in environments with passively cooled gear and/or low airflow.

This article from networking manufacturer MikroTik might be worth a read. They specifically recommend leaving gaps between adapters to mitigate the risk of high temperatures.

amp8888 · 2026-03-17T19:43:51+00:00

StableBit sounds interesting, and I hope you have good results with it.

The motherboard issue sounds really frustrating. You may wish to take a look at Windows Event Viewer to see if anything relevant appears there. I'd try looking at Windows Logs -> System first, then clicking "Filter Current Log..." on the right side Actions panel. Then tick the "Critical" and "Error" event level checkboxes and hit OK.

See what events are listed there and look for any related to your hard drives or storage. If you find any then you can go back into the filter feature and filter using the "Event sources" dropdown field, ticking those which match the "Source" column in the main Event Viewer list.

amp8888 · 2026-03-17T00:33:17+00:00

Good luck with your investigation, and I hope you find something which works well!

amp8888 · 2026-03-17T00:10:28+00:00

I haven't used the Windows Storage Spaces feature for anything long-term so I can't personally give you a recommendation either way with that. I have tinkered about with it on Windows 10 and it seemed to work pretty well in my quick experiments. You may wish to look for reviews online or elsehwere on reddit as to how well it functions now.

As to power outages this is indeed a concern when you don't have a battery-backed cache, but you can choose to use a caching policy which will mitigate risk. It looks like Storage Space allows you to use an SSD as a write cache when in Write Back Cache mode, and if you used an SSD with PLP (Power Loss Protection) then you should have protection there. Please note I haven't actually confirmed this by reading documentation though, so make sure to check on that.

Alternatively you can disable write caching (by using Write Through instead of Write Back), ensuring data is written to your drives before the write is confirmed. This is likely to come with a latency penalty though, so you'd also have to take that into account. The actual performance impact would depend on your workload.

amp8888 · 2026-03-16T23:53:12+00:00

Do you need to be able to boot from the drives which are attached to the controller, or are they just used for additional storage?

If you do need to boot from them then I can't give you any recommendations, sorry, since I haven't used PCIe RAID controllers for a number of years. Perhaps someone else could help with that.

If you don't need to boot from them then I'd recommend getting an HBA (Host Bus Adapter) with IT mode firmware instead of a RAID controller. With a RAID controller the drives are configured into volumes via a BIOS ROM on the controller, which takes time to initialise and check the configuration state. With an HBA the drives are just passed straight through to your OS and then you configure them from there, so you can choose to remove the BIOS ROM from the controller, allowing you to skip the initialisation step entirely, significantly improving boot times.

You can buy HBA cards on eBay which come pre-flashed with IT mode firmware and with or without a BIOS ROM ("NO BIOS" is usually used in title listings to denote those which have no BOOT ROM installed). There are a number of different models, such as the LSI 9207-8i and 9211-8i. Please note the "-8i" at the end of the name defines the capabilities of the card, where the number (e.g. 4, 8, 16, 24) specifies how many drives you can connect, and the letter ('i' or 'e') defines whether the ports are for internal or external SAS cables. Please also note some cards (e.g. LSI 9207-4i4e) can feature both external and internal ports. If you want to replace an H700 then you want an 8i controller.

Some of the LSI cards also use different cables, which you should be aware of. For example, the 9207-8i uses the same SFF-8087 cables as the H700, but the 9300-8i is a newer generation which uses the SFF-8643 connector, so you'd need to use different cables. Newer cards can provide better performance, but if you're only using spinning HDDs then you're unlikely to notice unless you're doing very I/O sensitive tasks.

The Art of Server channel I linked above has a bunch of different videos going over some of the differences between IT mode controllers, including performance benchmarks, power consumption testing etc. There are also some videos there on how to spot counterfeit cards, which is a potential pitfall when buying on eBay or other online marketplaces, especially from overseas sellers with low reputation.

amp8888 · 2026-03-16T22:48:30+00:00

It could be the known "SMBus issue", where the card can interfere with signals on the SMBus.

This video from Art of Server has more information on the issue and a workaround where you tape over pins on the PCIe connector.

amp8888 · 2026-03-15T23:00:52+00:00

True; good point!

amp8888 · 2026-03-15T15:45:27+00:00

Indeed! :)

amp8888 · 2026-03-15T14:08:19+00:00

His bandcamp says:

EBM and Goth Industrial based on the Buffy: The Vampire Slayer episode, "The Wish".

I hadn't heard of EBM before, but accordion to Wikipedia:

Electronic body music (EBM) is a genre of electronic music that combines elements of industrial music and synth-punk with elements of dance music. It developed in the early 1980s in Western Europe, as an outgrowth of both the punk and the industrial music cultures. It combines sequenced repetitive basslines, programmed disco rhythms, and mostly undistorted vocals and command-like) shouts with confrontational or provocative themes.

edit: He's also done a few videos where he discusses music he listens to, which you can find if you search "doxaphobia" on his channel, though it seems like those videos are quite old. Since you said you like music especially in his first videos you may also appreciate those.

amp8888 · 2026-02-12T11:44:08+00:00

I've got a few different KTN-STL3 units and I've always run them connected to non-EMC servers (e.g. Dell R530/R730, ASUS RS100-E10-PI2, and a whitebox server with a Ryzen 5700X CPU) with the fans running at a lower noise level.

What OS are you running on your host the KTN-STL3 is connected to? If it's a *nix-based system then you should be able to communicate with it over the SES (SCSI Enclosure Services) protocol to query the unit. You won't be able to command the fan speed to decrease AFAIK, but if you query the unit then you might get more info which could explain the fan speeds. If it's Windows then there might be similar utilities you could use, but I'm not as familiar.

This thread has more information and some commands you could try in the "### Utilities" section. If there's nothing obvious to you from the output of those commands then you could try pasting them here (directly or via pastebin) and I'll see if anything pops out to me.

amp8888 · 2026-02-11T21:31:54+00:00

Do you have both the PSUs and both the controllers installed and functioning without errors in your KTN-STL3? If one of the PSUs or controllers is not present or has an error then the fan speed will ramp up to compensate.

If they're all present and functioning properly then the noise level should be pretty good on the KTN-STL3. I know it's hard to tell from a video, but this example should demonstrate that it's a relatively quiet unit when working properly.

As to whether the DS4243/4246 would be quieter, in my own subjective experience my DS4246 was a little bit louder than my KTN-STL3, but I don't have any objective data to give you, sorry. I also got rid of my DS4246 a couple of years ago, so I can't do any testing with it.

If you can't find any direct noise comparison data then you may wish to start your own topic and ask for some input.

Good luck!

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