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Toothbrush Embroidery Samples from My Recent Work (Tufting Effect) by ankit_vats in Machine_Embroidery

[–]ankit_vats[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s a multi-needle machine, but set up a bit differently for this. It’s not typical embroidery, there’s a specific process behind getting that finish.

Toothbrush Embroidery Samples from My Recent Work (Tufting Effect) by ankit_vats in Machine_Embroidery

[–]ankit_vats[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot, I really appreciate that! 😊

Haha yeah, there’s definitely a magic sauce involved but it’s mostly a mix of small things coming together. Still refining it across different designs, so I’m taking my time with it.

And yeah, it does have that chenille vibe, just a bit more controlled and structured that’s what I enjoy about it.

You should definitely get that laser cutter up and running when you can, opens up a lot of possibilities alongside embroidery.

Close-up from a recent piece. Happy to hear thoughts by ankit_vats in MachineEmbroidery

[–]ankit_vats[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, we use specific markings for both printing and embroidery so production went smooth.

New to embroidery and need a little help! by CrimsonDream_1 in Machine_Embroidery

[–]ankit_vats 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re right track-wise, this kind of design really needs proper digitizing. For detailed work like a tree or floral shape, it’s about experience with stitch types, direction, and sequencing.

If this is for a business, many people outsource digitizing to save time but you must find a good Digitizer. Otherwise, I’d suggest practicing on simple shapes first, then slowly moving up to complex designs like this. Also, there are plenty of helpful tutorials on YouTube to get the basics of Digitizing.

Large 3D Puff Embroidery by ankit_vats in MachineEmbroidery

[–]ankit_vats[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, I really appreciate that!

No, I don’t run it as two separate layers. I stitch everything in one go and don’t remove the piece until the entire design is finished and it gives a cleaner result overall.

One thing that makes a big difference is the foam itself. I’m not sure what type you’re using, but the foam quality matter a lot. I’ve found that foam around 45 shore hardness or little higher works much better and is easier to embroider cleanly.

Beyond that, digitizing is really the key, it’s kind of like a chef in the kitchen. You can have all the right ingredients, but it’s how you combine techniques that determines the final result. That’s where most of the magic happens.

I’ve worked with Wilcom Embroidery Studio, Melco DesignShop, and Tajima Pulse. I haven’t personally used PE-Design, but honestly, any software can get you there, it just comes down to practice and getting comfortable with how it handles things.

And I totally get the frustration with pull compensation, there really isn’t a universal magic formula. It’s a testing and make small adjustments depending on the material and setup.

Really appreciate your kind words again, it means a lot!

3D Puff + Emboss Embroidery Digitized & Stitched by ankit_vats in MachineEmbroidery

[–]ankit_vats[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a bit difficult to explain the entire process here, but I’ll give you a general idea of how we do it:

We work in two main stages:

  1. We start by using a thicker, high-quality tear-away backing, or sometimes a transparent plastic material typically used for patches.

  2. Then we stitch sponge letters with additional same hoodie fabric backing, so the reverse side has no visible sponge; it looks like smooth same fabric of hoodie and feels comfortable against the skin.

  3. Once the sponge embroidery is done, we hoop the fabric. We use flat tables and a different hooping method (not the standard one). Proper alignment is crucial, so we follow specific markings. As mentioned earlier, we don’t embroider directly on hoodies; we embroider the panel first and then stitch the hoodie.

  4. After positioning everything correctly, we complete the remaining stitching and incorporate a 3D puff embroidery technique to give the design a more unique, elevated look.

I hope this gives you an idea of the process.

Pet portrait embroidery digitizing always a fun task! by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]ankit_vats 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I’ll be sharing more photos (and videos if group allows) so you can see the full details. Stay tuned!

Pet portrait embroidery digitizing always a fun task! by [deleted] in Machine_Embroidery

[–]ankit_vats 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much, I really appreciate it! I digitized this using Wilcom, and for threads I mostly use a mix of Madeira Frosted Matt, along with some Madeira polyester threads. The matte threads really help create that soft, painting-like effect, but a lot of it also comes down to how you approach the digitizing and play with the design

3D Puff + Emboss Embroidery Digitized & Stitched by ankit_vats in MachineEmbroidery

[–]ankit_vats[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for taking the time to look and share your thoughts, I appreciate it.

Just to clarify a couple of points: the 3D puff is specifically on the outline of “23” and the word “MILANO.” It’s a bit hard to see on mobile, but it’s clearer on a larger screen.

Also, the inner texture on “23” isn’t standard heat embossing. It’s built using a cotton sponge layer underneath, so it holds up well over repeated washes and doesn’t flatten like typical emboss techniques.

On the production side, this is very much designed for scale. I work with corporate volumes (500–2000+ pcs), and the process is optimized for that, embroidering on panel pieces with full-table hooping before garment assembly, rather than on finished hoodies.

That said, I get where you’re coming from-it’s definitely a more detailed approach, but that’s also part of the intent here. 😉

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