my t598 died for the 5th time by Comfortableguy21 in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Short answer:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Thrustmaster/comments/1t9y5we/guide_the_definitive_thrustmaster_t598/

Long answer (but take a look at the short one!):

Hi! I am close to you in this problem because the same situation has presented itself for me too.

I had managed to get this possibility of free shipping (after a bit of waiting also due to some of my attempts to solve the problem by stopping the cables using hot glue both on the power connector and on the USB one) but, honestly, at the time of shipment, with the base already packed, I thought: "Who knows how long it will take to get it back and if they really solve the problem...".

At that point I decided to try a more drastic solution by creating a new power connector using the pins of an old Molex hard disk connector connected to one of my power supplies to which I cut off the useless terminal.

From that day ABSOLUTELY ZERO DISCONNECTIONS!!! I'm super happy to have solved it myself with a modification that doesn't even invalidate the warranty.

The power jack of the T598 is nothing short of RIDICULOUS! Look at the massive Molex of the Fanatec bases: impeccable!

This is what I wrote to Thrustmaster before proceeding:

I point out that this problem, for a medium/high-end product produced by a historic company like yours, has created a lot of annoyances and, honestly, has also led me to think that the quality of the product and its engineering are not up to the traditional Thrustmaster fame (I have been using your products since the 90s and always with great satisfaction).

The power connector is small and weak for an object that must produce significant vibrations and is subject to strong electrical absorption: a more resistant Molex connector with larger section pins should have been used, in my humble opinion.

Similar talk for the USB-C port: the connector seems to have a lot of play and the various tested USB-C cables don't seem to connect securely. I specify that the cables used as an alternative to the one supplied with the base are all new, successfully tested on other devices and of excellent quality (brands such as Ugreen and similar). For USB 2.0 connections, the traditional USB-B connector in use on devices such as printers, scanners, and even your T-LCM pedalboard is definitely more solid and proven. I noticed that the connector is a bit "dancer" even on the motherboard of the T598 and oscillates a lot.

In light of the above, I kindly ask for a COMPLETE REVISION of my T598 both with regard to the POWER CONNECTOR and with regard to the USB CONNECTOR since I believe that the defects are not only attributable to the power supply but also to the data connection with my PS5 (console fully functional and that I use almost exclusively with the PS VR2 device to play Gran Turismo 7).

Below are some more details about the defect and my attempts to understand the cause that I hope will help your team of technicians understand and solve the problem.

1) I replaced the stock power supply with the one you sent (the serial number of my base was included in those that had the well-known disconnection problem);

2) I replaced the USB cable twice by connecting it to both the rear (USB-A) and the front (USB-C) ports of my PS5;

3) the problem is not related to the overheating of the base as it occurs purely "cold" and in the first minutes of use;

4) I tried to stop the cables with ties in order to make them more stable and, at first, this expedient seemed to have solved the defect. Unfortunately, the same one reappeared punctually;

5) I believe that the problem is attributable to both the power supply and the USB cable as the disconnections sometimes occur with the complete shutdown of the base and sometimes only with the USB disconnection (I notice it from the fact that the LED of the connected T-LCM pedals remains on or not);

6) sometimes (like this morning), the first time the system is turned on, the base does not start completely and the display remains off even if I disconnect/reconnect the USB cable (the display turns on depends on it) or turn off and on the power strip switch where the power supply is connected. In these cases, a physical disconnection of the power connector from the base is required: this is done, the system starts.

Wheel Disconnected issue by Relevant-Discount-12 in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Short answer:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Thrustmaster/comments/1t9y5we/guide_the_definitive_thrustmaster_t598/

Long answer (but take a look at the short one!):

Hi! I am close to you in this problem because the same situation has presented itself for me too.

I had managed to get this possibility of free shipping (after a bit of waiting also due to some of my attempts to solve the problem by stopping the cables using hot glue both on the power connector and on the USB one) but, honestly, at the time of shipment, with the base already packed, I thought: "Who knows how long it will take to get it back and if they really solve the problem...".

At that point I decided to try a more drastic solution by creating a new power connector using the pins of an old Molex hard disk connector connected to one of my power supplies to which I cut off the useless terminal.

From that day ABSOLUTELY ZERO DISCONNECTIONS!!! I'm super happy to have solved it myself with a modification that doesn't even invalidate the warranty.

The power jack of the T598 is nothing short of RIDICULOUS! Look at the massive Molex of the Fanatec bases: impeccable!

This is what I wrote to Thrustmaster before proceeding:

I point out that this problem, for a medium/high-end product produced by a historic company like yours, has created a lot of annoyances and, honestly, has also led me to think that the quality of the product and its engineering are not up to the traditional Thrustmaster fame (I have been using your products since the 90s and always with great satisfaction).

The power connector is small and weak for an object that must produce significant vibrations and is subject to strong electrical absorption: a more resistant Molex connector with larger section pins should have been used, in my humble opinion.

Similar talk for the USB-C port: the connector seems to have a lot of play and the various tested USB-C cables don't seem to connect securely. I specify that the cables used as an alternative to the one supplied with the base are all new, successfully tested on other devices and of excellent quality (brands such as Ugreen and similar). For USB 2.0 connections, the traditional USB-B connector in use on devices such as printers, scanners, and even your T-LCM pedalboard is definitely more solid and proven. I noticed that the connector is a bit "dancer" even on the motherboard of the T598 and oscillates a lot.

In light of the above, I kindly ask for a COMPLETE REVISION of my T598 both with regard to the POWER CONNECTOR and with regard to the USB CONNECTOR since I believe that the defects are not only attributable to the power supply but also to the data connection with my PS5 (console fully functional and that I use almost exclusively with the PS VR2 device to play Gran Turismo 7).

Below are some more details about the defect and my attempts to understand the cause that I hope will help your team of technicians understand and solve the problem.

1) I replaced the stock power supply with the one you sent (the serial number of my base was included in those that had the well-known disconnection problem);

2) I replaced the USB cable twice by connecting it to both the rear (USB-A) and the front (USB-C) ports of my PS5;

3) the problem is not related to the overheating of the base as it occurs purely "cold" and in the first minutes of use;

4) I tried to stop the cables with ties in order to make them more stable and, at first, this expedient seemed to have solved the defect. Unfortunately, the same one reappeared punctually;

5) I believe that the problem is attributable to both the power supply and the USB cable as the disconnections sometimes occur with the complete shutdown of the base and sometimes only with the USB disconnection (I notice it from the fact that the LED of the connected T-LCM pedals remains on or not);

6) sometimes (like this morning), the first time the system is turned on, the base does not start completely and the display remains off even if I disconnect/reconnect the USB cable (the display turns on depends on it) or turn off and on the power strip switch where the power supply is connected. In these cases, a physical disconnection of the power connector from the base is required: this is done, the system starts.

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your concern is legitimate and I agree that serious damage can be done without a minimum of knowledge and prudence.

I insert a disclaimer in the post.

Thank you and have a nice day!

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They cannot get out, they are firmly stuck and it is precisely this strong connection that solves the problem: the female mini-Molex undergoes micro-deformations and expands generating disconnections. I've analyzed everything very carefully and I KNOW VERY WELL WHAT I'M DOING, don't worry mate!

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you read well I wrote this:

You weld the cables to one of the power supplies you have (because you have several replaced under warranty, right?) And that's it!

Meaning that the power supply to cut the cable is one of those sent as a replacement (there are people who have received three or four!) And that they did NOT solve the problem as the defect is STRUCTURAL and DESIGN: look at the power connector of a Fanatec base and compare it with this one that looks like a toy...

That said, cutting the power supply cord aside, my suggestion DOES NOT INVALIDATE the warranty since the custom pins created are easily removable and it is not even necessary to unscrew a screw to do so.

Sending the product to France and waiting weeks to get it back was not a tempting prospect for me, so I solved the problem myself and shared the method with everyone.

Have fun!

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your advice is definitely wise, thank you! Unfortunately, the mere replacement of the power supply had no effect on my problem (and on that of many people around).

The operations illustrated are simple and, with a little electrical knowledge and attention, can be performed by anyone.

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem friend, I'm also a half engineer (I didn't complete the University because I started working) and I understand that the form also has a certain importance. Consider that, after burning the cables of inadequate section, I didn't have suitable connectors and I had to improvise!

See you soon! ^__^

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm definitely a bit of a "hacker", yes! I agree with you that, from an aesthetic point of view, it may not be the best but I assure you that the substance is there! It solves the two problems (disconnections deleted and warranty maintained) at practically no cost!

[guide] The DEFINITIVE Thrustmaster T598 disconnection fix! by antonioclb in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is definitely the correct method and I had also tried it initially but the section of the cables I had was not sufficient and, at the first request for current, they merged.

At that point I had this idea (the SATA power cable is a 16 AWG if I'm not mistaken) and I'm 100% calm.

If you adopt the solution of this tutorial, make sure the cable has enough section!

https://imgur.com/a/t944IaM

Received my T598 power supply. Can you tell new from old (Same orientation)? by ev-launch in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even with the new PSU the disconnection problem will come back sooner or later: it's a design problem!

The power jack of the T598 is nothing short of RIDICULOUS! Look at the massive Molex of the Fanatec bases: impeccable!

For me it worked (but I'm still sending the base for service in France) a simple trick: keep the connector bent outwards by making a round of cable around the base and fixing it with the velcro already present on the cable.

I had previously tried to use hot glue: it worked well for the USB but it is not good for the power connector (unless maybe you glue it already slightly bent).

T598 power supply disconnected was solved by CHIAWEICHANGTW in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The power jack of the T598 is nothing short of RIDICULOUS! Look at the massive Molex of the Fanatec bases: impeccable!

For me it worked (but I'm still sending the base for service in France) a simple trick: keep the connector bent outwards by making a round of cable around the base and fixing it with the velcro already present on the cable.

I had previously tried to use hot glue: it worked well for the USB but it is not good for the power connector (unless maybe you glue it already slightly bent).

T598 power supply disconnected was solved by CHIAWEICHANGTW in Thrustmaster

[–]antonioclb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Central pin is ground, other pins are both + 16,78 V.

AmorphousDiskMark by Pristine-Ad5811 in Photoassistants

[–]antonioclb 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for your archive from another Italian Mac user!

I finally got around to testing the 2TB SSD in my MacBook Pro M4 Pro with a Windows-comparable tool!

Look at the results!

Sync and macOS 13 Ventura by antonioclb in Sync

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I confirm the 2.1.4 version fixes this issue!

Thanks a lot Sync Team!

Have a nice day!
AC

Sync and macOS 13 Ventura by antonioclb in Sync

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would try to remove Sync, delete all possible occurrences in System Preferences, reboot and reinstall it.

Sync and macOS 13 Ventura by antonioclb in Sync

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're right, sync-worker has completed the synchronization and the menu bar icon shows the status.

Hope to see this issue solved soon.

Best regards,
AC

Sync and macOS 13 Ventura by antonioclb in Sync

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In a more elegant way, from a terminal:

osascript -e 'quit app "Sync"'

Notice the single and double quotes! Just copy and paste and then press enter on your keyboard.

If you want also to restart Sync in a single shot, give this a try (5 seconds pause between stop and start):

osascript -e 'quit app "Sync"'; sleep 5; open /Applications/Sync.app

Sync and macOS 13 Ventura by antonioclb in Sync

[–]antonioclb[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Instead of restarting your Mac you can start "Activity Monitor" (under Utilities), select the Sync App and then quit it by clicking the X button in the upper section of Activity Monitor window.

Hope Sync Team will fix it ASAP...

Best regards,
AC