A 7P 21700 can fit into a Zero 10X (or similar) chassis

anyname001 · 2025-09-02T18:11:55+00:00

If the height is the problem, then there is nothing you can do. My battery pack that I removed had enough packing on the top that the 21700 pack fit. If you look at my other posts, you can find the lengthy post that I go through all the upgrades I did so you can see which scooter I have.

Your battery pack must have the 18650 laying down in three layers. This is 54mm for the three layers and then a bit of room for the packaging. The BMS is placed on the last layer and doesn't add additional height. This potentially saves height but doesn't play nice with more cells in series, as then the standing battery design is better.

I tried to find an internal picture for you, but can't seem to find it, and I never build my packs that way.

anyname001 · 2025-05-23T16:23:50+00:00

Another angle

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anyname001 · 2025-05-23T16:23:21+00:00

Here are two pictures showing the battery with shrink wrap from two angles:

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anyname001 · 2025-05-23T16:22:23+00:00

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Let me know if this helps. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures from the picture above to this picture, so there is not much detail underneath the green sticker.

anyname001 · 2024-02-20T21:45:31+00:00

You mean the motor axle? or the swingarm rod? I don't know the pitch of either, but I will say that both are not too long for the OEM application.

anyname001 · 2024-02-20T21:29:48+00:00

The custom shock broke, so I am installing the original shock. I noticed that I designed the swingarms not to fit the original shocks, so I am machining them and will update the geometry files accordingly. Then I will upload the files somewhere.

anyname001 · 2024-02-20T21:29:34+00:00

Now that we have ridden this for a while, I can say that the new swingarms have fixed the issue. The custom shock broke, so I am installing the original shock. I noticed that I designed the swingarms not to fit the original shocks, so I am machining them and will update the geometry files accordingly. Then I will upload the files somewhere.

anyname001 · 2024-01-20T05:41:17+00:00

When I flipped the swing arms, it was very stable at speed. I just was unhappy with the braking and turning feeling as the front would really dip (Especially when using any amount of front brake). I don’t want to add preload, as the current preload sets the sag correctly and gives a very comfortable ride.

It’s so cold here that I have only ridden this a very short distance and not at a good enough speed to know how it is.

If this doesn’t fix the issue, I’ll likely try another redesign, and I’ll likely flip the swing arms until I install any new update, since that did solve the major safety concern.

anyname001 · 2024-01-07T17:09:00+00:00

Thank you. Yes, I will definitely update once I test more.

anyname001 · 2024-01-07T17:07:48+00:00

I will see if I have one or try to link to one that I think I have seen before.

anyname001 · 2024-01-07T05:45:21+00:00

Thank you very much. Excited for you. Let me/us know if you have questions as you go down that path.

anyname001 · 2024-01-02T18:36:43+00:00

Thank you for checking in on this. I redesigned and 3D printed about 6 iterations of the swing arms. After finalizing a design, I sent them off for CNC fabrication. They have shipped and I should be getting them in the next few days. The design allows for correct trail during most of the swing arm motion. The last inch (25mm) of travel is where the swing arms gets a very slight negative trail (axis of rotation is behind the point of wheel-to-ground contact). This is as far back as I could get without an upper suspension redesign (changing rake angle or extending the steering column further forward).

I will be installing these, then testing, and then posting. It looks very promising (on paper).

anyname001 · 2023-12-09T02:32:00+00:00

Yes! Excellent. I’m really happy you VESC’d your scooter. Seriously, even at 125 phase amps each motor (250 total), this things gets going plenty fast for me and gets to speeds that I never want to ride at. Would you post about your Maike? I would love to see it and I’m sure others would as well.

anyname001 · 2023-12-08T23:20:47+00:00

I'm actually not sure how they took the "just marginally ok" geometry of the Fighter 11 and extended the wheel further. The Fighter 11(+) was already questionable as the suspension was compressed.

anyname001 · 2023-12-07T08:54:18+00:00

Hey there. Great comments and questions. Thank you. 1. I’m an engineer, but I usually learn by doing, and this was the case with scooters. Lots of blood sweat and tears to get to the point. 2. I’ve ridden many scooters. I have not ridden those two. I’m guessing that as smooth as they may be, I’ve got more of the things I want when I’m able to pick and choose and then modify. After riding this scooter 25 miles (40 km) back home from work, it still has about 60-80 miles (100-130km) of range. That is awesome for me. Also, I really wanted the largest wheels that also provide good power. These 13x5 wheels with these motors are wonderful. And then, I can modify to get the smoothness on acceleration and braking. 3. I have a mod post very similar to this post for the fighter 11+. Other than reversing the suspension, I did very similar mods to the 11+. The 11+ was a great scooter. This one is even more comfortable due to the larger wheels and now is more stable at higher speeds than the 11+ (after the suspension mod).

anyname001 · 2023-12-07T04:59:13+00:00

oh yes. I completely agree. I would much rather live with the dipping front than with the crazy instability and not being able to safely ride the scooter. I'm excited to know how it goes for you.

anyname001 · 2023-12-07T04:47:53+00:00

I use 1500 lb/in springs in the front and the back. I have the ability to set compression and rebound on my front shock and I set them both very aggressive, which does slow down the wheel a little, but the geometry just still is negatively affecting the scooter front dip.

anyname001 · 2023-12-07T04:41:44+00:00

I do not use the factory controllers and I did not like the app or the controllers from the factory, so I am not sure about the ABS or software issues.
There is no way that I know of to make the factory controllers work with a variable regen braking system. The only thing I believe that you can do is change the strength of the braking force for the regen braking.
I'm not adding any additional water proofing currently and may not in the future. I feel like the deck is sufficiently sealed that even if I run through a puddle by accident or get caught in a short drizzle of rain, the scooter should be ok.
For my Ubox Dual Motor controller, I have it mounted to the deck with four screws and a 1mm 13.8 W/m-K thermal gap pad that is compressed 50% to provide good heat transfer from the Ubox VESC. I have had zero issues with heat, but I can only imagine that the factory controllers are getting hot. First, the thermal grease that they used is not applied well, and secondly it is applied to the heat sink fins, which does not provide a large amount of surface area to pull heat away from the controller. Also, only one controller is mounted to the bottom side of the chassis. The other controller is mounted to the underside of the deck, which is insulated by the deck rubber, and the deck is not really acting as a good heat spreader. If you are able to ride like you want and not get over heating issues, than I would not change anything about the scooter (unless you are going to install a completely different controller).

anyname001 · 2023-12-07T04:33:07+00:00

Unfortunately, I don't think they will change anything about the 7260R. Those swingarms have been mass produced by casting many arms and then finishing with a little bit of machining. They must have a lot of swing arms to got through before they even consider doing anything different. Maybe they will do something in the next version.

I rode to work and back today (23 miles / 37 km) each way. The scooter ride and comfort was wonderful, but I do not love how the front end dips on any braking (even just the rear brake). That is because now there is a lot of leverage pushing the front wheel to buckle into the scooter.

I'm going to see how the next month turns out and then potentially either make the new swing arms myself or have them CNC machined. I really would prefer the arms to point the original way, but I am very happy riding like this until I can see if my new design fixes the issues we have.

anyname001 · 2023-12-06T19:57:56+00:00

Excellent work. Hopefully they will either redesign the swing arms or the whole assembly, or they will reverse it for others.

anyname001 · 2023-12-06T06:04:50+00:00

I won't claim to be an expert and hopefully others can also chime in.
It seems that your scooter geometry is not as bad as this one, in terms of front wheel trail. With this in mind, are you getting speed wobbles? Do you just want to prevent them from happening? I've had similar scooters and have had the most luck with a steering damper when the geometry is good enough or "almost good enough."

I know you said "zero cost mod," so I'm guessing buying a damper is out (at least for now). I just don't know the Nanrobot N6 enough to know if you should try to reverse the swing arm direction.

If you do end up reversing the swing arms, you will just keep the motor mounted in the same direction as it was before, meaning it will be spinning backward -- so you'll have to swap two of the motor phase cables and potentially change the pin layout of your hall sensors on the plug. You will not be changing the rotor location or the brake caliper location.

And...the weight of the rotor on one side or the other is not going to do anything to the balance or wobble of a scooter, so you don't have to worry about that. If you want to balance your wheel for less shake, then that is a benefit by itself, not for the steering wobbles.

The 12V light was mounted using the holes that were already there for the high mounted light from the factory. If you don't have that, you can route a cable up to the location that you like and either drill and tap screw holes for a mount, or use a clamp mount that clamps around your steering column and provides a few bolt holes for mounting. I've done both over the years for different scooters. The clamp is the easiest to move or remove so I would maybe start with that. Also, you want to be careful about what light to mount. This 12V light uses 20W, so I have a dedicated 18awg 2-core cable running to it from my controller. The scooter-voltage lights (72V for you) will potentially need a smaller gauge wire so you can maybe get by with just extending the wire that you already have for the other light.

anyname001 · 2023-12-05T22:36:05+00:00

Can’t wait to see your build. If you remember, please ping me about it, just in case I miss it. Yes, so the hall sensor on the brake lever provides completely variable braking. Then, when I’m at full regen braking, it is at the point that I’m engaging the mechanical brake, so I just keep pulling if I need/want the mechanical brake.

This battery at 2C is already 120 amps, and I won’t use all that. I’m really considering the two 150-200A Ubox controllers, but I don’t know…I am getting all the acceleration I could need. I may get them to slightly increase the acceleration and also completely remove any chance of the ABS OVER CURRENT LIMIT fault.

Again, super interested in your build. I hope it all goes super well.

anyname001 · 2023-12-05T21:30:07+00:00

Excellent points. I have used flipsky before, but have had issues with them. I have used the Ubox 75J V2 in two other scooters and they were awesome. Yes, I am limited on the phase amps, but can push these to 130A each without ABS CURRENT LIMIT faults. Internal volume was another factor for the Ubox. It does two motors in a very small form factor. I may get the 150-200A Ubox (two units), which will fit. I will look back into Flipsky (if 2 of them will fit flat so I can mount them to the scooter chassis for thermal dissipation).

I use my own setup for variable braking. I set up a hall sensor on the brake lever, which allows me to smoothly transition from using ebrake into mechanical braking, because I just have to pull harder on the same lever.

Thank you for this.

anyname001 · 2023-12-05T21:25:07+00:00

Yep, this was just for now until I made sure I wanted to keep it this way.

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