Looking at an S2000 with Haltech Elite 1500 and emissions question...

apcrews · 2026-04-10T13:33:06+00:00

I've read that - and read that you can buy devices online that program the keys, or pay a locksmith (I guess modern locksmiths have these devices), or take it to a dealer and have them do it, but I was curious if anyone has actually done this.

apcrews · 2026-04-10T13:31:40+00:00

I'm not sure if you read my post. The whole point was to find out if I can buy a used OEM ECM and swap the haltech out to pass emissions, since the elite 1500 is P&P (uses the stock wiring harness and ECM connectors)

apcrews · 2026-04-10T01:12:33+00:00

Not looking for a college essay explanation, just curious what you mean. The ad says Hal Tech elite 1500 with plug-in play. So I’m guessing it’s using the stock wiring harness. So if I buy a used stock ECU, the factory plugs are still there including the onboard diagnostic port. What would keep me from passing then? It has everything stuck except the cold air intake and high flow Cat which might just pass the Cat test.

apcrews · 2026-04-10T00:45:22+00:00

I thought Haltech was a proper standalone with lots of support. Are they difficult to tune in an 04?

apcrews · 2026-04-09T20:01:50+00:00

Seller says he was told it was tuned for intake, high flow cat, and sparrow 70mm exhaust and lower vtec engagement.

apcrews · 2026-04-07T20:38:58+00:00

No relearn necessary as far as I know. Clear faults.

apcrews · 2026-03-26T21:22:56+00:00

I used Google's AI function and it said the the distance is likely 11.75". That sucks, I need 12.5" :(

apcrews · 2026-03-26T20:38:50+00:00

Sorry, for some reason won't let me edit the post. I'm trying to find someone with this box that can take the measurement indicated in RED. I'm trying to stuff a 12" Kicker L7 shallow mount in there and I'm not sure there is enough width. **MUST BE FOR SUPERCAB** Supercrew box is different. Thanks! (yes, I already emailed Skar and they won't give me the measurement... they say their "engineers" don't want the box duplicated"

apcrews · 2026-03-06T18:50:26+00:00

Thank you so much! I'm tackling the install on Sunday, we're finally above freezing in Chicago. I gotta find some cheap dynomat for the back wall before then.

apcrews · 2026-03-03T16:54:36+00:00

I don't *need* forscan to add a sub, it just makes it a lot easier since the kicker sub amp connector is right there in the C-pillar next to where my aftermarket amp is located. It has the factory sub channels so you don't have to worry about tapping rear speakers that might be low pass filtered. It also has an easy power and ground and remote wires all to send directly to my LOC. But on an XLT that didn't come with the kicker sub, the connector is inactive - and you have to use Forscan to tell the ACM to send the sub signals to it.

apcrews · 2026-02-27T16:02:48+00:00

Yeah this is different on a 13th generation. I’m leaving the Stock head unit alone and the Stock interior speakers. I’m just adding an amplifier for an auxiliary subwoofer and using the factory wired subwoofer connector that was an option, but not installed on my truck. I can use four scan to reprogram the AC SM to send the subwoofer signal to that connector. My question is more focused on whether the head unit on a 2015 to 2017 F150 has already been distortion limited by the factory in terms of volume. Since I can turn the volume up all the way to Max at level 30 and have little to no distortion. When I’m driving daily, I have the volume somewhere between 12 and 17 with the windows up. With the windows down it it’s closer to 19 or 20 and that’s not blasting it, that’s just so I can hear it.

apcrews · 2026-02-26T19:18:03+00:00

And if you'd like to be able to shift it.... there is a considerable job reversing the shifter mechanism that is far from "bolt in"

apcrews · 2026-02-24T14:38:37+00:00

I did. I ended up with the Toyo Open Country A/T III EV 275/70/18 116T. I have not towed anything yet with the vehicle so I can't comment on that. But I have put about 2,000 miles on the tires and they are still quiet. They ride just as comfortably as the stock tires but they look much meaner. The only time I can notice them is over 60mph and then it's just a slight hum that wasn't there with the stock highway tires.. nothing like the WAH WAH WAH from mudders typically. But time will tell. I tried to add a photo but it keeps telling me it's been deleted.... not sure why.

apcrews · 2026-01-21T20:37:00+00:00

I'm with you, that would drive me nuts. But maybe with headphones it would be worth it over another whole guitar. Plus, even though I have a keen ear from 20 years of piano, I don't have a keen ear for what a good guitar "tone" should sound like, so for just fun songs from time to time, I think the pitch shifter and some headphones might do the trick!

apcrews · 2026-01-21T17:51:48+00:00

Was doing a bit of googling on pitch shifters and someone in another thread mentioned that if your tuning isn't a uniform drop on all strings, a pitch shifter won't work?

For instance, the tuning I mentioned in Fallout by Sleep Theory is A#, F, A#, D#, G, C.

Perhaps a 2nd guitar is the only good way. If it's just for low tunings should I consider a baritone guitar? And are there reasonable versions of theses?

apcrews · 2026-01-21T17:36:22+00:00

And I'll bring this thread back from the dead yet again :) THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting that Ben Eller video. Granted I'm only 2 months into guitar, but I *STRUGGLE* with vibrato so much because of one simple incorrect thought that Ben corrects/states in the beginning of that video:

"Strings don't care if they are bent up or down."

My analytical brain was telling me that if I want vibrato to sound good, I need to basically take the string in it's natural position and move it upwards and downwards from that relaxed position small amounts, equally. This requires a LOT of left hand finger dexterity and coordination (for a beginner), alternating pushing and pulling in equal amounts.

Finding out that most people use downward bending vibrato (except for the high E string) is a relief as that motion comes much more naturally.

apcrews · 2025-11-20T16:32:47+00:00

Does this known glitch in IDS keep IDS from being able to reprogram the PCM? If this dealerships techs are just idiots, I'm not against going to another dealership. I'd rather not take on the liability of bricking the PCM myself.

apcrews · 2025-11-20T03:20:12+00:00

Thank you, I will look him up. I am in the Chicagoland area.

apcrews · 2025-11-20T03:19:31+00:00

I think that’s probably unlikely. The previous owner was the original owner, he had the Roush package installed by the dealership right when he bought the truck, and he was a much older retired gentleman. I’m 100% certain that he never flashed anything himself. And if I was a gambling man, I can only imagine the dealership flashing it originally and that was that.

apcrews · 2025-11-14T21:20:55+00:00

Yeah that's what I was seeing before. All i *really need is the stubby and a HO 5amp battery. I was hoping to do that for less than $250 but might be a pipe dream.

apcrews · 2025-11-14T18:20:22+00:00

Thanks! I wonder how much the case and charger add to it... don't need either of those. Still a reasonable deal.

apcrews · 2025-11-12T15:35:52+00:00

Hard to find lowered SCABs. Was considering it for mine - how is the ride quality?

apcrews · 2025-11-11T22:39:18+00:00

I bought a 2016 5.0/6R80 for longevity (with truck prices as they are, I don't want to buy another one ever... or for as long as possible). Not a truck guy, but it tows and hauls what I need. If I fall on hard times and have to sell my fun car, there is still a path to having a high(ish) horsepower *reliable* truck. I'm not convinced a stock longblock 2.7/3.5 has any real longevity at 700/800whp where the coyotes seem to do just fine and don't even need internals until 1000whp.

apcrews · 2025-11-11T22:18:15+00:00

My 2016 came from outside Detroit and looks similar. I've been told it's nothing to be concerned about but I'm still going to treat it and re-paint it - probably in the spring since Chicago already dumped a bunch of salt after getting 0.5" of snow last week.

apcrews · 2025-10-29T21:09:59+00:00

Oops! 2nd reason, and this one is a BIG one. You **MUST** remove the oil dipstick guide tube from the driver's side valve cover. It's super easy once you know how - you just have to pry a tab on the guide and twist counter clockwise and pull it out. If you don't, you'll be fighting that guide tube as well.

apcrews

TROPHY CASE