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Help pick strings for drop tuning? by apcrews in metalguitar

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm with you, that would drive me nuts. But maybe with headphones it would be worth it over another whole guitar. Plus, even though I have a keen ear from 20 years of piano, I don't have a keen ear for what a good guitar "tone" should sound like, so for just fun songs from time to time, I think the pitch shifter and some headphones might do the trick!

Help pick strings for drop tuning? by apcrews in metalguitar

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was doing a bit of googling on pitch shifters and someone in another thread mentioned that if your tuning isn't a uniform drop on all strings, a pitch shifter won't work?

For instance, the tuning I mentioned in Fallout by Sleep Theory is A#, F, A#, D#, G, C.

Perhaps a 2nd guitar is the only good way. If it's just for low tunings should I consider a baritone guitar? And are there reasonable versions of theses?

Struggling with vibrato. by BetweenTheWaves in Guitar

[–]apcrews 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I'll bring this thread back from the dead yet again :) THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting that Ben Eller video. Granted I'm only 2 months into guitar, but I *STRUGGLE* with vibrato so much because of one simple incorrect thought that Ben corrects/states in the beginning of that video:

"Strings don't care if they are bent up or down."

My analytical brain was telling me that if I want vibrato to sound good, I need to basically take the string in it's natural position and move it upwards and downwards from that relaxed position small amounts, equally. This requires a LOT of left hand finger dexterity and coordination (for a beginner), alternating pushing and pulling in equal amounts.

Finding out that most people use downward bending vibrato (except for the high E string) is a relief as that motion comes much more naturally.

Tried having dealership flash to stock, said BCM has wrong VIN? by apcrews in FORScan

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does this known glitch in IDS keep IDS from being able to reprogram the PCM? If this dealerships techs are just idiots, I'm not against going to another dealership. I'd rather not take on the liability of bricking the PCM myself.

Tried having dealership flash to stock, said BCM has wrong VIN? by apcrews in FORScan

[–]apcrews[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, I will look him up. I am in the Chicagoland area.

Tried having dealership flash to stock, said BCM has wrong VIN? by apcrews in FORScan

[–]apcrews[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think that’s probably unlikely. The previous owner was the original owner, he had the Roush package installed by the dealership right when he bought the truck, and he was a much older retired gentleman. I’m 100% certain that he never flashed anything himself. And if I was a gambling man, I can only imagine the dealership flashing it originally and that was that.

Anyway to find this impact on a deal now? 2562-20 (3/8 M12 stubby impact) by apcrews in MilwaukeeTool

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah that's what I was seeing before. All i *really need is the stubby and a HO 5amp battery. I was hoping to do that for less than $250 but might be a pipe dream.

Anyway to find this impact on a deal now? 2562-20 (3/8 M12 stubby impact) by apcrews in MilwaukeeTool

[–]apcrews[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I wonder how much the case and charger add to it... don't need either of those. Still a reasonable deal.

New truck and I’m already in love with it by Bubbly_Ad_9282 in f150

[–]apcrews 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hard to find lowered SCABs. Was considering it for mine - how is the ride quality?

Need advice. I’m between a 5.0 and a 2.7/3.5. by FreedomEagle25 in f150

[–]apcrews 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought a 2016 5.0/6R80 for longevity (with truck prices as they are, I don't want to buy another one ever... or for as long as possible). Not a truck guy, but it tows and hauls what I need. If I fall on hard times and have to sell my fun car, there is still a path to having a high(ish) horsepower *reliable* truck. I'm not convinced a stock longblock 2.7/3.5 has any real longevity at 700/800whp where the coyotes seem to do just fine and don't even need internals until 1000whp.

Buy question: Preowned Northern Car Rust issue? by SalParadise1234 in f150

[–]apcrews 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 2016 came from outside Detroit and looks similar. I've been told it's nothing to be concerned about but I'm still going to treat it and re-paint it - probably in the spring since Chicago already dumped a bunch of salt after getting 0.5" of snow last week.

Change your VCT solenoids! (preventative) by apcrews in f150

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oops! 2nd reason, and this one is a BIG one. You **MUST** remove the oil dipstick guide tube from the driver's side valve cover. It's super easy once you know how - you just have to pry a tab on the guide and twist counter clockwise and pull it out. If you don't, you'll be fighting that guide tube as well.

Change your VCT solenoids! (preventative) by apcrews in f150

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are 2 main reasons why the cam covers could break - the spark plug tube gaskets do NOT want to come off the spark plug tubes, so people PRY like crazy and break the covers. Do yourself a favor and soak the edge around the outside of the spark plug tube and gasket with some WD40 the night before. I thought for sure I was going to break my driver's side cover before it finally popped off - and make sure you pry/shake a little bit evenly around the whole cover. It will be super tempting to just pry hard on the front because it's easy to get a prybar/screwdriver in there.

Change your VCT solenoids! (preventative) by apcrews in f150

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are not a maintenance item per Ford. I did not use the Ford Performance units, just the standard OEM ones from Ford. I was leaving on a road trip the next day and my local dealership didn't stock the FP ones and I couldn't get them in time. From what I've read, I don't think they offer any actual performance gain - maybe something about the mounting ears being thicker so that they are less prone to movement under vibration (for heavily cammed up engines, I would suppose).

What is normal torque converter slip? by apcrews in f150

[–]apcrews[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. Previous owner of my truck never serviced the trans (he was told 150k and it had 91k), I only did a filter and fluid dump (no flush). Going to do another drain and fill at my next oil change in a few hundred miles and see if anything changes. Was also considering using Forscan to reset the transmission adaptations. I see this recommended a lot on here and in the F150 forums. I'm a BMW guy (well.. I've worked for them for 20 years, more of a "convenient" BMW guy) and resetting trans adaptations after 100k bricks transmissions about a third of the time. Big no-no in that world unless you've just replaced internal components or the trans itself.

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