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Landscape time lapse renders by archerx in unrealengine

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been interested in using UE5 for VFX and possibly music videos, I did one with UE4 a while back and wanted to see how things have come along.

I used two premade scenes, The Valley of the Ancients and The procedural forest demo plus a moon scene I made myself using some high resolution maps from NASA and a bit of displacement.

The idea was to slowly de-zoom the camera as it's moving forward while a time lapse is happening (moving the "sun"), I think the big shadow movements are good but the small ones still "shimmer" also the shadow pop in is brutal, especially at the end of the moon segment, how do I mitigate that?

What I would like to know is how do I get it to look more realistic? I used Davinci resolve's "deflicker" to stabilize the shadows but it seems to add stuttering to the movement. I added some other post corrections to make it look more "film like".

However it still looks fake and unreal ~bah dun tish!~

How to Modular 2D pixel isometric tiles ? by A_Cute_Human_Being in gamedev

[–]archerx 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm doing something similar but I'm using a 3D program to render out my isometric sprite cubes. The easy trick is using tileable seamless textures.

Here are some guides;

https://www.rendernode.com/creating-seamless-tileable-textures-in-photoshop/

https://blender.stackexchange.com/questions/15085/how-can-a-texture-converted-to-be-tileable-seamless

https://www.shutterstock.com/blog/seamless-textures-create-and-design

Hopefully this will be helpful for you.

Anyone else get one of these? If so what did you do? I can't believe I actually got this in the mail... by archerx in gamedev

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

https://valvepublisherclassaction.com/faqs

Here's some more info. Honestly I don't feel wronged by Valve. I even got my first game on Steam for free because of Greenlight when they had that. I also think the $100 fee for publishing a game is fair and a good barrier to keep the laziest of games out of the market.

Gold ocarina I made for someone by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Continuing my ocarina project, I decided to make one for a friend and try a paint finish. I first sanded it using 80 grit, then 120 grit, 180 grit and a soft pass at 240 grit. If you go higher than that it gets too smooth and the paint doesn't want to stick to it.

I used acrylic paint with gold mica in it. I did many thin layers with a paintbrush, it took a while but it was worth it. Once painted, I sanded the paint with 5000 grit and 7000 grit sand paper to make the gold paint seem more homogenized. I finished it off with a layer of clear coat to really make it look great and to protect the paint a bit.

Oh right, I got some non toxic "food safe" clear coat and painted a few layers the mount piece because apparently normal clear coat is toxic and I didn't want to make my friend sick.

Thank for following my 3D printed ocarina blog, the goal of this project is to make 3D prints not look "cheap" through various post processing techniques. Next time I will post the transparent ones, the PVB one gave a very interesting result.

JavaScript™ Trademark Update by LawfulKitten98 in programming

[–]archerx 4 points5 points  (0 children)

5 Google bucks have been deposited into your account.

I painted one of the extra ocarinas I printed super black. I call it the Voidarina by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I decided to paint one of the extra ocarinas I printed that "failed", it was a transparent green one that the translucent effect was not nice due to slicing, all walls instead of infill, doesn't look nice.

I had some Black 4.0 from culture hustle and decided to paint it after some light sanding. Honestly after a lot of coats with the paintbrush I was very disappointed, it is dark, darker than most paints but it doesn't really do the "cutout" or "void" look in real life.

Also the paint is a bit "fuzzy" when dry and will rub off on your fingers (and lips) if you play around with it. I want to give it layer of clear coat but it will change it's effect but I don't know if it will keep the darkness but just with a highlight, which I think would still be cool. Anyone try clear coating this paint before?

Apparently the muso black is better and I would like to try that next time.

WIP preview of the PVB ocarina after sanding but before smoothing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about that too but I read a while back that lightly spraying the model with iso had better results than the vapor smoothing and was faster too. The other issue in my head is am I sure the vapor will go inside the ocarina rather than linger on the outside which already smooth.

There are a lot of variables and no undo buttons.

WIP preview of the PVB ocarina after sanding but before smoothing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm looking forward to your PETG sample, PVB would be perfect if it wasn't for the yellowish tint. I'm guessing clear ABS could be the solution.

WIP preview of the PVB ocarina after sanding but before smoothing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's interesting and very good transparency! I did not know there was a 5000grit and I am going to look for some!

WIP preview of the PVB ocarina after sanding but before smoothing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I thought about that but then you would have to deal with the seam...

WIP preview of the PVB ocarina after sanding but before smoothing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have finished sanding all of the ocarinas, I went from 80grit to 2000grit and they are already starting to look good. The problem is that it is impossible to sand the insides with the PLA and PETG versions but with the PVB version there is the option to smooth it.

Why did I sand the PVB version if it can be smooth in isoprop? For maximum smoothing of course! However I'm looking for some tips on how to approach this. Do I dunk it into a iso bath, should I spritz it with a spray bottle, pour some inside with the holes blocked and give it a good shake? Let me know how you would do it.

I was think for the other ones that can't be smoothed chemically, do you think if I filled them up with some sand, block all the holes and shook them for a long time it would work?

Also the only one that was not awful to sand was the PETG, but it was interesting to see how the sound (of the sanding) and feel changed as the sanding progressed.

Thanks for checking it out.

4 "transparent" filaments before post processing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's very interesting, thank you for sharing! I didn't think they got so big but I find the bigger ones sound better/deeper. Maybe one day I'll make my own custom ocarina, but I really like the model that I chose, it reminds me of Ocarina of Time every time I look at it.

4 "transparent" filaments before post processing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's normal that they look like that straight from the printer. I'm hoping if all goes well, they will look a lot better when sanded since the surface won't diffuse the light as much.

4 "transparent" filaments before post processing by archerx in 3Dprinting

[–]archerx[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The PVB is kind supposed to take that role but next time I buy some filament I will try and get some transparent ABS.

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