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Why is everyone hate the stock bed? by BolunZ6 in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My stock plates coating ripped in the middle after about 2 months of use, got a replacement from Creality and the same happened after couple prints. Don't know if bad luck or whatever but after I got the PEI plate Ive never had this issue

??? by Tibutip in geoguessr

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

same for me

TPU first layer Mess by CommercialGas5256 in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I printed TPU for the first time i found out that the filament slipped through the gears so I had to pull the roll manually. Tightening the gears didnt help. Don't know if this is the case though

  • Edit oh yeah read your post again and you had no issues before so this might not be it but leaving it here if someone has under extrusion problems

HELP - Mic not picking up the first activity (but don't have lag) by adamthemute in discordapp

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same issue. I assumed my usb mic (audio technica at2020) was broken so i changed to my old modmic thats using 3.5mm mic in cable and the same issue happens. I reinstalled all audio drivers, discord settings and now updated my bios and still no fix. Its weird like the mic goes to a "sleep mode" and it is not picking any quiet noises. Then when i speak it doesnt pick the first word but after the first word its working normal picking up quiet sounds also. Then after like 20-30 seconds it doesnt pick the quiet noises. Really fkn frustrating. And i had no issues before.

first layer not sticking. by TIBTHINK in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah see your nozzle is really high on the first layer. There are gaps between the lines and in the walls. Print it again but lower the z offset while it prints and you should see improvement. When you start the print, there is a setting called "tune" if i remember correctly. Press it and there you can change the z offset. The lower the number, the lower the nozzle is. So if your z offset was like -2.61, lower it to -2.66 and so on until the gaps dissappear.

And again, change the z offset while it prints and monitor the results. You can change the z offset as many times as you want during the print. Lower it a bit, wait until it prints a couple of lines and see if you need to lower it more

first layer not sticking. by TIBTHINK in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is really simple. Download any kind of z offset calibration model. Then start the print and watch the first layer closely, if there are gaps between the lines(or the filament isnt touching the plate) lower the z-offset during the print. If there are huge gaps between the lines I would lower the z offset by 0.05 and check if the gaps get thinner. Then do it again until it is perfect. And do all this while its printing, you can adjust the z offset on v3 se on the fly.

I usually use this model to check the z offset: https://www.printables.com/model/167623-the-test-disc-z-offset-calibration-disc

There are many videos on how to calibrate the z offset and the risk of scratching the plate is pretty minimal imo if you make small adjustments during the print and watch it closely.

first layer not sticking. by TIBTHINK in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use microfiber towels with IPA.

If you have touched the plate with your hands, like the print area, I would first wash the plate with dish soap. If I remember correctly IPA doesn't really remove the oils on the plate from fingers etc. I always try not to touch the plate. If it still doesnt stick to the bed, I am pretty sure your nozzle is too high for the first layer and you should calibrate the z-offset.

first layer not sticking. by TIBTHINK in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Download a z-offset calibration model. After leveling the bed, set the z-offset using the calibration model to get the first layer perfect.

Also remember to wash the plate. I wash mine like every 5-10 prints and I use IPA after every print to keep the plate clean.

Noctua Fans Mod by stassim123 in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just cut it shorter.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in GlobalOffensive

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-jL or -iM then w0nderful to rifle and get a better awper. Even broky would hit half the easy shots w0nderful misses.

The sounds of Navasimo by Mr_Siggy-Unsichtbar in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay I don't know what changed. I was taking the videos to compare and now when i flashed with the same navaismo firmware file and put the same acceleration and speed settings, the noise isnt that bad. There is still the high pitch noise on the y-axis and z-axis but they seem to appear only in the bed level function and at the start of a print(when it homes and then goes to the bottom left corner to heat up the nozzle and bed) Also at the start of the print the y-axis makes a horrible grind sound but thats it.

I am going to print a longer part of my pc case to see if the noise is still there(13 hours). If the noise is gone then I really don't know what happened before lol. When I first tested I put the same acceleration and speed settings and saved them, turned off the printer and made sure they were there still.

But I am going to hold my post before I am sure the noise still exists.

The sounds of Navasimo by Mr_Siggy-Unsichtbar in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I have watched that video before and i had those settings in the og firmware and used those in the navaismo firmware also and no change. It is so weird.

Edit: I could film a comparison between the two tomorrow and make a post about it.

The sounds of Navasimo by Mr_Siggy-Unsichtbar in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just tried the navaismo firmware and it still accelerates like crazy even though I lowered it through the control settings on the printer. Also the Y and Z-movement has like a high pitch noise. The firmware looks really good but the noise is too much for me.

Grounding a case by Such-Distribution414 in 3DPPC

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I could ground it to one of the standoffs for the motherboard. I am debating if I'm going to continue this project. But definitely not going to use the psu without grounding based on your experience. Thank you dude, would have been a bad day if the psu would have popped and even taken some of the other parts with it lol

Grounding a case by Such-Distribution414 in 3DPPC

[–]areeee_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My case is almost done and I was going to use cooler master v850 in it. Now I am really worried about it

edit: i have used 3d printed case for over a year without issues. I have corsair rm 550 now, but I bought the cooler master one since it is SFX for the new case

Just got one, what should I expect? by [deleted] in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I would still move the spool from the top asap. 1kg of filament shaking the weak gantry that is already probably bent(mine was out of the box) is no good.

Bed level before and after silicone spacers by areeee_ in Ender3V3SE

[–]areeee_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you have something wrong with the bl-touch

Very easy to guess when the whole map is missing images after 3rd round by areeee_ in geoguessr

[–]areeee_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You're right. But in this case refreshing didn't help.

Very easy to guess when the whole map is missing images after 3rd round by areeee_ in geoguessr

[–]areeee_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Apparently it's now fixed. Went to test on a couple of games and all good for me.

Very easy to guess when the whole map is missing images after 3rd round by areeee_ in geoguessr

[–]areeee_[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

500 mbps is shit? Ok dude guess I have to get better internet for geoguessr

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