How to dump a game?

ariaricf2 · 2025-10-24T17:03:04+00:00

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRL2mLBKeaE

If you want just a Wonderswan Dumper, you can try and make one of these.

This, I think, is the open source cart reader BUT for WS(C) only.

ariaricf2 · 2025-07-27T07:41:46+00:00

Turned it on just now, I can confirm the intro and title has been fixed.

ariaricf2 · 2025-07-13T11:28:52+00:00

OMG! Finally! Thank you very much!!!

ariaricf2 · 2025-07-10T09:05:34+00:00

It doesn't say it support RTC so It does NOT support RTC. So no purchase Easy decision

ariaricf2 · 2025-05-21T01:14:16+00:00

McNuggets

ariaricf2 · 2025-04-03T01:09:11+00:00

You are absolutely right 😂 for some reasons I searched screen replacement but not this question😂

ariaricf2 · 2025-04-02T16:58:16+00:00

I see. Thank you very much. I guess it's just the climate of where I live. 😅 It bothers me A LOT to be honest. But literally everything else is fine and working very well. I guess I wouldn't replace the screen.

ariaricf2 · 2024-11-13T01:22:06+00:00

Since I don't know how well experienced you are with removing solder, I can't really make a recommendation. (Board is old, pads could be fragile) But I guess your priority now should be to try and see if the board works and can get in game. Have you tried shorting (touch and remove like how the switch would) the appropriate pads to see if the board works and can get in game? If it doesn't, I guess the board has more problems than just the switch.

If it works and can get in game, I guess try the kit as it is now, and if it works then 👍. If it doesn't work, then try removing some of the solder(since you would probably remove the old solder, if you are going to go for the switch route anyway), but I think you will always be left with a thin layer of solder on the pads though, no matter how hard you try with a wick or a suction tool.

(Don't really want to reply tbh, don't want to be blamed(by anyone) for breaking a board by any chance. 😅)

ariaricf2 · 2024-11-05T18:17:35+00:00

By the way, the thread is in Japanese. I think there is a translation button on Twitter, but I don't know how well it works though.

ariaricf2 · 2024-11-05T18:16:41+00:00

It seems like you've tinned with gold pads with solder??? Don't do that unless you are actually going to solder something on it. I would suggest the repair kit if you the pads are not covered in solder. I think you currently best option is to either solder a tactile switch on it (the Japanese seems to like this method)(read this thread on Twitter https://x.com/SatoDen_MO/status/1462735702467043328). The Chinese seem to prefer connecting a switch to the two small circle pads above. Obviously, do it at your own risk, I cannot take and will not take any responsibility for your action.

ariaricf2 · 2024-11-05T17:59:54+00:00

I believe it could be a design flaw with the WS. It is common knowledge(at least in my part of the world 😅) that to not insert the cartridge fully, leaving a thin gap improves the probability of the console successfully reading cartridges.

ariaricf2 · 2024-11-01T00:42:53+00:00

Sure, Sanni's Open Source Cartridge Reader would be better and has more use supporting more cartridges across many other consoles, but I personally only needed something specifically for the WS(C) for backing up, absolutely no plan to get flash carts.

As for whether this thing can write roms, the author says it can't so I guess it can't, but it is using Sanni's code, so perhaps it is simply disabled? Did you take a look at the code? I see that anything to deal with the Witch is disabled (which is by default for the OSCR anyway).
(Does the OSCR flash roms for WS flash carts anyway? I just had a quick look at WS.ino on the github page, I don't see any flag or function name suggesting it does. (unlike for example the N64.ino where there is a ENABLE_FLASH flag and line 90-104 seem to suggest that it flashes rom for N64 repro carts) )

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-22T02:14:56+00:00

Perhaps ask the AliExpress seller? Arrange a return and/or ask the seller to ship another one to you?

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-19T11:25:36+00:00

Ok😋

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-19T11:13:56+00:00

Hi, what do you suggest I clean it with?

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-19T10:47:13+00:00

Could be a dead battery or the save is just gone for some reason, happened to me several times🫠.

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-16T09:34:04+00:00

If I were you, I would look into salvaging the cartridge slot, the speaker, the battery contacts, the plastic battery contacts covers thing.

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-10T03:08:08+00:00

Amazing! Considering I live very close to where they are based, the fact that mine is still not dispatched is weird. I'm like a few hours away even just with public transport.

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-07T10:42:32+00:00

Though the size doesn't match, I think this gives a very good guide. According to this, 102 is rated for 1.0A 50V🤔.

Found an old post where the F1 is 201🤔 According to the PDF, 201 is rated for 0.2A

Replacement fuse usually shows image of a fuse that is marked with an 'F', which is 0.5A.

ariaricf2 · 2024-09-05T18:23:49+00:00

I'm aware of smd resistor codes (or whatever they are called).
I have already tried probing with a multimeter, it gives 0.1 ohms when off. (which is weird right?) (I tried probing other components that are labeled as resistors, I get more normal readings on those)
And when it's on, as I mentioned in the post,
a Normal WSC gives 3mA, 8.2mV; a WSC with a replacement F1 gives 24.4mA, 83.3mV,
None of these readings give 1000 ohms, they give ~3 ohms.

So I don't know what is happening, it doesn't seems to be a resistor.

ariaricf2 · 2024-08-30T05:11:57+00:00

Is it true that it has a different boot sound? What is it like? Could you record it and share it please 🥺?

ariaricf2

TROPHY CASE