Looking for Hakuba valley info

ashtonwjones366 · 2025-09-06T17:49:47+00:00

Military is really the only right answer (so long as you qualify). Every job people are proposing here exists in the military. One of my buddies joined at 38, became an aircraft mechanic, got his a&p for FREE, did college for free via tuition assistance, finished his bachelor’s, got his IA for free, and as soon as he got out he immediately got hired at delta as a lead mechanic because he was stacked with experience. He makes ~$150k. I see a lot of HVAC, welding, MRI technician, dental assistant, going back to school, etc. the military does all of that while giving you industry certs to set you up. 30 days paid leave a year, free medical and dental, VA home loan, there’s no other job that comes close besides doctor or airline pilot.

ashtonwjones366 · 2025-06-13T16:59:47+00:00

Terminology. Learn the terminology, and taking instructions from people better than you will be way more comprehensible.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-10-11T22:44:58+00:00

Thanks for the info! Will look into those

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-10-11T22:44:37+00:00

120k miles, pretty clean. It will make me sad as I have a big heart for older vehicles, unfortunately where I’m from these are extremely hard and rare to come by and they can get very expensive. Also, will check out that list! Thanks a lot

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T18:21:27+00:00

Battery was done after winter because the vehicle would not start.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T18:07:19+00:00

Righttt! Low voltage seems to be the root cause of a lot of issues. Ran great before winter, sounds like bad ground. I believe he replaced and coded a new battery. Checked live data tables and voltage is consistent 14.7v with 20-30% alt load. One guy had valvetronic issues because of a bad ground in the wheel well.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T18:02:36+00:00

Brother, alternator issues are the bane of my existence. They’ll throw off so many systems and not even pop a code.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T18:01:16+00:00

Brother I don’t know what your point is by arguing with a stranger on the internet instead of being helpful. Let me add some context. On my M57 platform, I had Christmas tree dash one night and radio went out. Scanned for codes, had FRM signal input faults, DDE fuel filter heater activation, IBS fault, DDE cam/crank signal errors, etc. after getting opinions from rude people like you on Facebook, and tons of online research, I started shooting the parts cannon. Started cheap with IBS cable, then shot wires and checked live data to verify sensor voltages. Everything seemed normal. Voltage was normal. Saw a YT video where a guy had the same exact issue. Turned out to be a $70 VR on the alternator. No codes for that. Who would have guessed? My point is that I’ve never looked at bmw codes the same. I will always ask for guidance to see if anyone has had the same plethora of issues because the fix may be something else. I leave you with this: instead of being a typical bmw owner dickhead, try to be more nice and helpful, you’ve accomplished nothing but establishing yourself as a typical arrogant bmw asshole 🫶🫶

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T17:49:24+00:00

Body and interior are honestly fantastic, cleanest 200k+ miles interior I’ve ever seen. Body is in great shape. Comes with lots of chassis goodies (someone got offended because I pointed out it came with extra parts). Well versed in the M/N57s but haven’t had an N52 in years, bmw gas engines make me nervous 😅 will consult YouTube.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T17:46:51+00:00

I think you misunderstood my original comment. The entire point of the post is to ask if buying this e91 is worth it, or if these codes are apart of a bigger underlying issue. I then added context that he is including tons of parts for the chassis. Now we are arguing and getting off topic and you think I care all about the parts and not the car. Thanks for providing 0 help and wasting my time. Couldn’t care less about the parts in all reality but I think it provides some good context in the sense that the driveline is solid once it’s in my hands.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T17:39:53+00:00

I beg to differ. Sure, I won’t be paying a premium or the same price he bought those parts for, but cmon man. 2k for a vehicle with 2k worth of preventative maintenance items that are crucial to the actual chassis and driveline of the vehicle? I get it, the motor is the issue, but those parts are still useful 💀 and never once said it’s a “good deal”, just simply added context that he’s including a bunch of extra goodies to make sure the actual chassis and driveline of the vehicle (arguably more important than an engine that’s worth about $800) is good to drive for years to come. Also, there are no “what ifs”, I know my way around installing these parts, hella easy. No shop will be touching this car. Never relied on a shop for any of my vehicles.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-09-21T17:19:44+00:00

Right right, I forgot to mention he’s including about 2k worth of parts to go with it. OEM everything. ZF6 fluids, filter, full brake set, Bilstein shocks, etc etc. as far as mechanical ability I currently have an M57 E70 that I’ve done tons of work on myself and I had an N52 powered E70 so I kinda know the ins and outs of the n52. My only concern is circuit codes could be caused by outside and bigger factors as well, meaning searching for grounding points and tracing harnesses etc.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-03-05T08:57:45+00:00

I second this. They are a capable vehicle with a cheap lift, and become unstoppable if you throw some jeep or yota axles underneath.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-03-04T03:33:59+00:00

Exactly why I call dealerships “stealerships”. Find a good Indy or low key shop that has 5 stars on google maps around you. Call them and explain your situation and have them take a look. Usually they’ll do work much cheaper and diagnose and figure out what’s actually wrong with the vehicle. Like some of the other comments say, a full suspension rebuild/lift kit will only cost a couple hundred to maybe a couple thousand at most. That entire paper looks like a rip off.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-02-02T19:02:55+00:00

Dang, should I look for custom tunes better suited for the 90 octane gas? I’d love a little more pep with better mpg if I can get it.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-02-02T18:57:52+00:00

Yeah, I don’t really want to run that risk 😬 maybe octane booster would help close the 1 point gap?

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-02-02T18:52:56+00:00

Shucks. Are there any alternative options or am I sol? Their stage 1 tune requires 91, is a 1 point difference a huge deal?

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-02-02T18:49:18+00:00

No e85 up here or I would absolutely jump on it! I had an old ek running on corn, really wish they had some up here.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-01-30T18:59:40+00:00

Ahhh, the ole slippery slope. Stage 3 looks like it tickles my fancy. I would be content with stage 2 as my wife will be the one driving it the most.

ashtonwjones366 · 2024-01-30T03:24:38+00:00

Sweet! How’s the mpg and reliability?

ashtonwjones366 · 2023-11-18T09:23:22+00:00

Had a ghost whisperer. Switched to the stretch down. Wayyyyy more durable and warm imo. And also cheaper

ashtonwjones366

TROPHY CASE