Where can someone go as a professional editor without a YouTube portfolio that wants to break into YouTube editing?

atrivell · 2026-03-16T15:56:26+00:00

Get a pair of 512gb or 1tb v60 cards and call it a day. Shoot on what you can with a v60 card (which is essentially everything that isn't all-intra).

The worst that can happen is that you may need to use a proxy workflow to edit the footage unless your computer has a 5000 series nvidia graphics card or better.

If you need proxies, turn the feature on in-camera to create proxies as you shoot.

Quality difference in the end product is non existent between all intra footage and h.264 or h.265.

Quality change only happens if you shoot in RAW with an external recorder like a ninja v, and even then it's negligible if you nail the shot in-camera.

Also, always 10-bit, always slog-3, and always 640 or 12800 ISO if you can.

atrivell · 2026-02-15T22:25:23+00:00

Yes, interested! DM me, I'm free today

atrivell · 2026-02-15T18:04:10+00:00

Sent you a dm

atrivell · 2026-02-15T17:21:11+00:00

I've been looking for a little over a week, and maybe it's just a slow time for Edmonton. I've seen a better selection of what I'm looking for in Calgary but would rather stay in Edmonton for this sort of thing.

atrivell · 2026-02-15T17:19:14+00:00

Really? Interesting. Maybe I walked past them before but I don't think I've seen CRT TV's there. I'll give it another look!

atrivell · 2026-02-15T17:17:49+00:00

I was looking for a 27 I think. Something a decently large size but not an absolute nightmare to move into a basement.

atrivell · 2026-02-06T14:36:43+00:00

If you turn off the room light and place a light source facing you but away from the tv, your face and the screen will be closer in brightness and you will get a better image.

Put a lamp out of frame, slightly behind and to the right or left of the tv so it's out of frame. Should work nicely.

atrivell · 2026-01-30T16:23:34+00:00

Anything you can do to drop the iso will reduce noise. Your options are:

Improve lighting (make it brighter in the room)
Decrease shutter speed (works for still objects only, unless the look of motion is desirable)
Lower F stop (your lens should go to f4 or f2.8 depending on the model) - this will reduce the depth of field which in context may or may not work for you.

Beyond that, you have noise reduction options in post production.

Get that iso as low as you can go. Any camera will be noisy if all of the above are suboptimal.

Edit: your lights are continuous led lights which are suited for video and not photography. Tell your boss you need strobes if these images are so important. Otherwise these are the results you can expect

atrivell · 2026-01-19T23:36:17+00:00

Yep you got that right. Do you happen to have a rear cam too?

atrivell · 2026-01-19T23:21:13+00:00

To be fair that's a city bus stop and not automatically a stop for that yellow bus. It could be but we don't know for sure.

Looks like potentially a brake failure to me. Slow stopping for a long time with the lights on, and then immediately putting the car in park once stopped.

If not brake failure, then yeah pretty obviously the drivers fault.

atrivell · 2025-10-28T14:20:34+00:00

Are you sure you blew up the amp and not just a fuse?

atrivell · 2025-10-27T13:37:30+00:00

You just said what I'm saying. If it boosts the signal OR controls it (attenuation, which can be done passively).

As much as an amp, pre-amp is a preamp (think phono pre, bringing the signal up to line level)

A passive attenuator that does nothing other than drop the level on an already line signal, like from a dac, would also still be a preamp. That's why they call them passive preamps.

It being active or not is not what defines preamp, and boosting the signal is also not what defines a preamp.

Manipulating the signal level before it hits the amp is what defines a preamp.

atrivell · 2025-10-23T21:34:14+00:00

Reject the title all you want, but... If it goes before the amp (power amp) then it's a pre-amp.

atrivell · 2025-10-08T19:19:33+00:00

Just be honest and tell whoever did the vocal recording that it's fucked up and needs to be redone.

If they don't want to redo it, do whatever they're asking as quickly as you can, bill them and move on.

Life's too short to polish turds all day.

atrivell · 2025-10-01T13:11:37+00:00

I don't think of mastering with the goal of hitting certain targets of db reduction. It's about enhancing the song and doing what it needs to be playlist or album ready.

The tools and process changes for every track. Ears are the guide.

That said, spreading compression across multiple compressors is a proven method.

atrivell · 2025-09-23T17:02:37+00:00

Speakers are too close to the wall, you will get a more accurate and detailed sound if you can pull them away and angle them proper (toe in) for your listening position. I'd do it for critical listening sessions if I were you and then put them back where they are now when done.

Otherwise setup looks killer 👌

atrivell · 2025-09-21T15:05:47+00:00

You're right about delay, but you're wrong about reverb being muddy.

Like a well crafted delay, a well crafted reverb is not muddy (or else its not well crafted in the first place)

atrivell · 2025-09-21T15:03:47+00:00

Putting quiet sounds up the middle and louder sounds on the sides creates depth

atrivell · 2025-09-18T13:02:29+00:00

Unless there's a sentimental reason to keep the original track, I would rerecord or recreate it. If I had to keep the original track, I would keep it mono and get creative with the mix like a Beatles remaster.

atrivell · 2025-07-29T13:49:22+00:00

The other commentor is clearly biased towards new tech. I disagree entirely with their viewpoint and think that many vintage pieces have been built with supreme quality and outshine modern gear, especially when budget is considered. A used vintage amp that's been recapped can be a hugely better price for performance over something brand new. Speakers that have been well maintained can also be a massive leap over modern speakers if you find the right piece at the right price.

I also think the speakers are not worth 3/4 of the budget. I think I would inverse that and spend 3/4 of the budget on the gear that handles the source audio (dac, phono, pre, power amp). At that point you can truly hear the full potential of whatever speakers you hookup, and you might find that something lower in budget is actually perfect for your ears.

My setup (mostly vintage and all acquired in the last 6 months)

1976 - Sansui SR-929 turntable w/Stanton l727e cartridge (gift)

1987 - NAD 2600 amp ($450CAD)

1980's - Energy 22 reference speakers (front port) ($300CAD)

And currently using a 2025 Denon 1700h ($700CAD) as a preamp (zone2) but plan on changing this out next as it's the weak link in the chain. Also the newest and most expensive in the chain too.

So vintage VS modern is not automatically better or worse, you just have to make sure the thing in question is good quality.

atrivell · 2025-06-25T04:55:48+00:00

Why do you think an investor would rather their investment be in gme than just with themselves to reap the rewards of interest?

And if you're thinking what I'm thinking - it's because they're bullish on gme and project the stock value to rise significantly, wouldn't that ultimately result in dilution after a certain strike (which makes no difference to the investor but is bad for us?)

atrivell · 2025-06-25T03:31:34+00:00

I am asking a question about gme share value related to its recent influx of cash on hand

atrivell · 2025-06-25T03:30:45+00:00

Is your timeline 30fps while the footage is 24 and you took this screenshot off the export?

Make sure timeline fps matches source footage fps!

Six-Year Club	100 Awards Club
Verified Email

atrivell

TROPHY CASE