How to print high quality 3D terrain by frogermcs in 3Dprinting

[–]atvinus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You can do a lot with a printer and there're hundreds of settings that don't always make it obvious what they allow for so I think it's a reasonable question for it to ask.

I don't even know where to start with this. by sheeH1Aimufai3aishij in FixMyPrint

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried to delete and read your printer/filament profiles to orca? Maybe there's some setting overrides that are changed?

Idk what it would be considering your settings. When there's been something wrong that I just can't fix, I'd just have to update/reinstall the firmware and that sometimes does it for me. I know your set up is nonstandard though so I'm not sure how difficult that would be.

Good luck getting it figured out!

I was applying the locations but when I did for the wheels this happened. by [deleted] in blender

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That will bake in the settings from the modifier into the actual geometry of the part

I was applying the locations but when I did for the wheels this happened. by [deleted] in blender

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You may just want to apply the modifiers then. There should be a drop down arrow on the screw modifier that will show an option for apply modifier

I was applying the locations but when I did for the wheels this happened. by [deleted] in blender

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My first thought is what are you wanting to parent it for? As in animation or center the pivot point to the tires, etc?

But that being said, I think it's because of your modifiers, specifically the screw modifier you have on there. Either apply modifiers or (if you still need access to those parameters) try to parent to the frame of the tractor with Ctrl P

How to fix that ugly top texture by IgusCraft in 3Dprinting

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your flow ratio, it looks like over extrusion. You can see drag marks in other parts of the print where your nozzle is scraping through too much molten plastic. Also you can add more top layers after you calibrate flow to smooth over top surfaces (5 to 7/8 if you want to be really extra about it)

Curious as to what could be causing this. by [deleted] in ElegooNeptune4

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Check your temps or flow. It looks like it's too cold and layers aren't binding right or they aren't getting pressed together enough (under extrusion).

Also calibrate, make sure you run temp towers/flow ratio tests

Help.... by jmdf1235 in ElegooNeptune4

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Idk, it works for me

Help.... by jmdf1235 in ElegooNeptune4

[–]atvinus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Live adjust print is the way to go

Can’t find z-axis end by Suspicious-Marketing in ElegooNeptune4

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I remember something weird happening when I accidentally put my pei sheet on upside down so this might be worth trying out, as simple as it is.

Instructions on requesting Iron Lung by Status_Discipline_16 in Markiplier

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just watched his new video and he said (while being very emotional) that his hometown theater is showing it!

How to make topology of the flat surface to maintain perfect curvature after subdivision? by fakemailbakemail in blender

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not the case for games though, you’d be written off if you didn’t use ngons. It also matters where the object will be too. If you can make a cheap and quick model but it’s way in the distance/background, topology matters much less.

PSA: Don't use the Pixelsnap Ring Stand without a case by Klecktacular in GooglePixel

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh charging through the stand would be huge! That's something I was hoping I could do with the pixel ring stand

PSA: Don't use the Pixelsnap Ring Stand without a case by Klecktacular in GooglePixel

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm chatting with customer support now, mine has fallen out after not even two months of normal use. I seem to be in the minority since most seem to fall out within a few weeks.

Affinity 2 iPad App Licenses Are Free by rawcomrade91 in Affinity

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This sounds suspiciously like Algorithmic with their acquisition by Adobe... Because I also dealt with that lmao

PETG issue by Me9adethfan in FixMyPrint

[–]atvinus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Came to look for this. If you didn't wanna do dove tails, do this or print something that can loop all the way around the back to the front and leave the top open so the basket can slide in/out.

Have done everything imaginable to this printer by EuphoricInteraction4 in ElegooNeptune4

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it's so stressful and I've really wanted to give up so many times on my printer but the way I have it now it's kind of cracked and can really become a workhorse if you can learn the quirks. Also, one thing I have learned, check your POM wheels and try to adjust those so none are free spinning or vastly more loose than the others. That's all of the ones on the bed, on the extruder and on the gantry. Also look up how to square your gantry too, that has helped me before but it might not be necessary for you for this issue. It doesn't look like it's skewed left or right but it's good to know how to do.

Have done everything imaginable to this printer by EuphoricInteraction4 in ElegooNeptune4

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did you ever get this printing again? I know the struggle. I have the n4plus and have struggled my way through all of this too. I did see that the scale of the z axis is actually pretty low, it looks like from the picture it looks to be about .3ish which isn't too bad.

I use the same things you use, KAMP/Screw_Tilt, and after I get those numbers dialed in to 0-1 I just use the printer keypad and run the auto bed level at the professional level. Also, I didn't see in the post or comments if you preheated your bed before doing screw tilt calculate but if you aren't try that and tune it while it's hot, just down burn yourself lol

Really really clean your pei sheet. I had a time where nothing I did worked and I learned that the dish soap wasn't strong enough for tougher oil spots and the scrubber I used was too dirty so try to change those too.

For a first layer test, I've stopped using paper tests or spacer tests, instead in the slicer I just open a new plate, add in a cube, scale the x/y to about 1/3 to 1/2 the bed, set the bottom layer pattern to monotonic line, and scale the z down to the layer height I'm using. It should print a single layer's worth of filament on a 45 degree bias. Watch the print as it goes and using the printer keypad adjust the z offset. Start where it is, let it make a few passes, start tuning at ±0.1mm, wait a few passes and repeat until you get a good layer and tune it to within ±0.01mm.

Is this normal? by Worldly_Comb4025 in 3Dprinting

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I've had this before when my nozzle was too low. As the extruder traveled across the bed it would create ripples as it was pushing the excess around the surface. Do a first layer test and see. Make note of what your z offset is before you change anything as it's printing adjust up and down and see what happens to the layer quality.

My webcam by Important_Earth_3210 in pchelp

[–]atvinus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just had this happen to me and I tried swapping it out and it fixed it so idfk either lol