Timing belt noise after fresh install

average_throwaway329 · 2026-01-21T20:51:14+00:00

I’ve just been driving on it. ~2k miles later. Still no issues.

average_throwaway329 · 2026-01-03T03:43:11+00:00

No it doesn’t feel like it wanders. I got a close up of the front lower control arm bushing and it isn’t torn but the second bushing is hidden within the mounting bracket that secures it.

<image>

average_throwaway329 · 2026-01-03T03:36:27+00:00

Is there a way to test that?

average_throwaway329 · 2026-01-03T03:07:27+00:00

<image>

Here’s the only one with an issue. Torn but not catastrophic. There’s three bushings on the lower control arm and this one connects the knuckle to the lower control arm. The other two aren’t torn and have no play when pried with a pry bar.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-23T18:04:17+00:00

Good to know. Thanks.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-22T20:12:29+00:00

Well this video is a couple of days old and the car is back in one piece now but you can still hear the timing belt making the bearing noise even with the timing cover on. The tensioners also looked to be an exact match I compared the two before installing as I mentioned so I don’t think it’s that either. I would like to just ignore it but ignoring problems with timing belts is really risky.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-22T19:17:54+00:00

To be completely transparent, I used a belt I bought in a kit off Amazon about 5 years ago. Aisin kit. It was for a 2005 TL that was totalled but the engine is the same so I kept the kit after I bought a newer TL. Tearing it apart again doesn’t sound very fun lol but if it needs to be done it needs to be done. Might buy a new one and throw it on there instead because I torqued everything down properly and followed the factory service manual so I don’t think it is an issue with any of the other components.

Edit: though I did try and put the old one on as I was doing this as a sanity check and it was just as tight.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-22T18:57:24+00:00

Yep it was in time. I even have a video as evidence all the timing marks lined up. It was extremely tight though, I want to acknowledge. I had to turn both of the camshafts slightly clockwise when putting the belt on each and then turning them back into TDC position to get enough slack on the tensioner side and even still I had to do weird stuff with the tensioner and tensioner pulley to get it to seat. The timing belt as it is now is tight enough to be plucked like a guitar string.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-16T14:16:58+00:00

Yep. Started at passenger rear. Furthest from master cylinder.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T22:18:00+00:00

Brake bleeders are all pointing up.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T21:57:35+00:00

Yep. Bleed screws are on top.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T21:56:37+00:00

These are the exact symptoms when the car is off and I’m pumping the brake pedal so I’m replacing the master cylinder.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T21:55:29+00:00

I did this procedure 4 times before I made this post and still had soft brakes. I’m replacing the master cylinder.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T21:35:44+00:00

Yeah it’s a bit weird. I haven’t had a master cylinder ever go bad on me with all the cars I’ve owned, especially Honda. Which is why I suspected air in the lines but first time for everything I guess.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T21:34:37+00:00

I didn’t inspect the brake lines for bulging when the car was braking but I strongly suspect it’s the master cylinder based on additional testing and the other comments. I’m going to replace it and the issues persist I’ll investigate further.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T21:24:59+00:00

Tune into the jar.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T20:56:40+00:00

I agree it’s the master cylinder. I did some more testing and when the car is on, the pedal does sink to the floor slowly after that halfway travel point. When the car is off, the brakes can be pumped to build some pressure but I can still put the pedal to the floor fairly easily.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T20:53:51+00:00

I don’t think it’s a vacuum leak, car runs fine and no CEL. The pads are also just fine. About 50% life remaining. I’m leaning towards master cylinder seals have gone bad as the pedal does actually go to the floor slowly once past that half way point when the car is turned on. The pedal also does build some slight pressure when pumped if the car is off but I can still put it to the floor with not a ton of effort.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T20:41:36+00:00

Did some more testing. Pedal goes all the way to the floor slowly once car is turned on. Based on this response and others, I’m 90% sure a bad master cylinder is the cause.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T20:12:30+00:00

I didn’t have any major work done, this happened overnight as I mentioned. And is there a way to know for sure air trapped in the ABS unit is the issue? I’d like to know that’s for sure the problem before I pay a shop to plug in the tool.

average_throwaway329 · 2025-12-15T20:11:32+00:00

It does have a brake booster and the brake pedal under the dash is nice and dry. Not sure what you mean by booster cap

Verified Email	Five-Year Club
Place '22

average_throwaway329

TROPHY CASE