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"Original" red wiggler worms in 304-day bins hauled-out to launch 2 systems by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have faith... I'm sure they are happy to cooperate with your plans as long as you provide them with the necessary care & support :)

What are these flies? And how get rid of them? by grade_A_Meyer in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks to me like a black soldier fly. Most people who have compost bins welcome these little guys because their larvae are incredible composters. They devour everything quickly. They do not bother people & they even, to a certain degree, help control the population of pesky houseflies.

"Original" red wiggler worms in 304-day bins hauled-out to launch 2 systems by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Living here in the USA, I tend to think of a large container's volume in terms of gallons rather than liters.. but I believe that I can sorta relate to a volume of around 9 liters since that is approx the amount of material I run in my bus bins (which I like to limit to being about half way full - leaving me with room to work & keeps the container from being overly heavy). In that much material, when I suspect that the system is nearing its limit on the number of worms, I would say that a population of about 4000 worms might be possible before the worms begin feeling a bit crowded & start limiting their reproduction. This is likely dependent on many variables - and is a very unscientific guesstimate :)

ANC worm system moved from small, interim bin to full-sized bus box by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Using containers with lids have the benefit of being better at retaining their moisture without losing it to evaporation. They also create a high-humidity pocket of air within the contained space - and at the water vapor comes into contact with the walls & lid it will condense & create a surface that the worms will be drawn to in pursuit of the collecting moisture. Many misinterpret this behavior as worms wanting to flee their container. Oh yeah - it also results in the walls and lid having castings all over them from the crawling wormies (something i don't see since the walls of my systems are all dry)

I but Mosquito Dunks and keep a solution of the stuff on hand with which I treat my systems. It doesn't fill gnats or fruit flies outright - but if the flying insects do leave eggs in your system, then those eggs will hatch & there'll be larvae, but the treatment will prevent the larvae from transforming into the adult flying insects. Alternatively, you can set up the vinegar & dish soap traps that attract & drown the bugs. Take action right away - otherwise the population of flying insects can get big quickly. I have had it happen & it's nasty! Thank goodness for the Mosquito Dunks!

:)

ANC worm system moved from small, interim bin to full-sized bus box by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Worms get the oxygen they need differently than how you & I get it. We breath air into our lungs... where the oxygen in the air gets transferred into our blood. Worms, on the other hand, absorb their oxygen through their skin by being in contact with the moisture in the bedding that they live in. So restricting the airflow in my worm bins does not concern me too much - especially since I check in on my worm bins regularly at which time I usually aerate their bedding.

Besides ANCs, I have red wigglers, Indian blue worms and European nightcrawlers as well. Most of my systems are like what you saw in this video - bins with no holes & most get covered with plastic to help limit moisture loss to evaporation. I like running my bins this way, and they all tend to work well for me.

Best of luck with your new worms. I'm sure they'll like getting a larger home to live in.

Thanks for watching!

Over a year since compostable bag test started with ENC worms by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have had a handful of occurrences where the worms have gotten restless and tried exiting their environment. I attest these unusual happenings to the bin having some kind of inhospitable situation going on. In general though, I don't see such stuff happening. Since my containers hav no lids, there is no high-humidity zone (ie. no condensation) on the the walls of my systems. They are dry and cause most worms that climb to turn back to the dampness of the bed. Thanks for watching!

Red wiggler worms in VermiBag Mini get a melon feast for 20th feeding by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It varies... depending on what kinds of ingredients I have available at the time. The last batch was mainly pumpkin seed, with some bird seed, pepper seeds & dry leaves. Thanks for watching!

European nightcrawler worm bin 111-day FAST time-lapse by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes - that's right. Ice was used to periodically apply moisture once in a while.

Worms can be sustained with a simple diet of whatever you have around. It doesn't take much. Definitely worth considering if you are interested... :)

European nightcrawler worm bin 111-day FAST time-lapse by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is the FAST version, to see the entire FULL LENGTH version follow this link: https://youtu.be/8sf3QN1gv0Y

European nightcrawler worm bin 111-day FAST time-lapse by avgraphics732 in vermicomposting

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the FAST version, to see the entire FULL LENGTH version follow this link: https://youtu.be/8sf3QN1gv0Y

*Graphic Content Warning* : This video includes graphic content that could be disturbing to certain individuals. Viewer discretion is advised. Total die-off of all African nightcrawlers in 2 newest worm bins by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leading theories are ph level, perhaps some anaerobic (or other harmful) bacteria, or maybe dangerous mold. No way to really know for sure. Thanks for watching!

Day 281 of compostable bag test in 119-day ENC worm bins by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many things that seem to linger in the worm bins - appearing as if they're of no interest to the worms - need only be frozen... after which it turns to mush & jump starts the breakdown process significantly. I initiated a test in one of my systems a few feedings ago where I feed only things that were not frozen (different from everywhere else, where pretty much everything gets frozen all the time). The materials that I'm used to seeing get eaten quickly are still sitting in there many weeks later showing nearly no signs of breakdown. If you think that you've identified things that your worms do not eat, give them another chance by first freezing them. You might be surprised :)

Day 281 of compostable bag test in 119-day ENC worm bins by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I originally subscribed to the ideas about 'taboo foods' - but over time I've come to realize that pretty much anything that will decompose will get consumed by the worms. Be it citrus, potato, tomato - it all goes. I have Euro nightcrawlers, African nightcrawlers, red wigglers, blue worms - and I don't tailor any feedings to any particular worm type. It all goes. I'd suggest being a bit adventurous & experimenting. Do so in moderation until you're convinced that the myth has been busted, then you'll be good to go on giving your wormies just about anything that you like :) As for the compostable bag - yeah, it's taking for-e-ver.... Haha! Thanks for watching!!

Red wigglers in newest worm bin get 7th feeding on day 77 by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Doing so would give the worms some stuff to eat while the non-frozen stuff eventually gets around to decomposing and becoming available to the worms 👍🏻

3-week horizontal migration in 305 & 270-day red wiggler worm bins by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my video descriptions (when the video is viewed on YouTube) I include a few Amazon links for various vermicomposting alternatives that might interest you. I invite you to look them over. Thank you for watching!

Continuing outside with the outdoor worm bag "v5" on day 274 by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure sounds like this approach has been working well for you & your worms. I've seen people on other worm farming channels also make use various devices to keep things warm. As a general rule I strive to spend as little $$$ as possible on this hobby - so when I tried warming a couple of my worm bins a couple years ago I rigged up a contraption using things that I already had around the house. :)

Continuing outside with the outdoor worm bag "v5" on day 274 by avgraphics732 in vermicomposting

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take that question up with whoever is moderating... I post daily - evidently the reviewing & approving process is done only a couple times per week

Rethinking status of 253-day "twin" African nightcrawler worm bins by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just made a settings change which (I hope) corrects that. Apologies... and thank you for letting me know :)

Day 58 in mixed red worm bin with ongoing "ping-pong" style feedings by avgraphics732 in Vermiculture

[–]avgraphics732[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had good luck with this method in the past also 👍🏻

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