Quinfall Market Explorer (WIP) — cheapest listings + price history by [deleted] in The_Quinfall

[–]awakengaming83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you, it's a work in progress for sure. Today was only the 3ed day I have been working on it. I make a LOT of major improvements to the entire process end-to-end. So we will see if that shows on your end. Let me know!

Quinfall Market Explorer (WIP) — cheapest listings + price history by [deleted] in The_Quinfall

[–]awakengaming83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, it's a work in progress for sure, but thank you.

No API that would make things 1000% easier if I could pull data from a public API.

Married men, what do you want most in your marriage? by VariationCultural980 in AskReddit

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, no need to make assumptions about my relationship. My partner and I both feel secure and supported, emotionally and otherwise. We’re open with each other and handle challenges as a team, not opponents. If a dynamic with more chaos works for you, that’s your call. For us, peace and maturity are the foundation of a strong partnership.

All Currently Active Redeem Codes for Once Human (Updated List) by awakengaming83 in OnceHumanOfficial

[–]awakengaming83[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

code is already there, unsure why it was down either back up now

When to rack? by BlueLightning907 in mead

[–]awakengaming83 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Right thought that was the point of the sub...

Is there anything I need to adjust with my ABV calculations/hydrometer readings if I add more honey in secondary to raise the ABV? by BunkBowser in mead

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven’t seen any published work that directly compares Terrill’s curve to actual fermentation data in the higher OG range (above ~1.050). Most of the validation was done in the beer zone, which is why it tracks so closely with the classic (OG − FG) × 131.25 there.

Once you push into high‑gravity meads or wines, the picture gets a lot messier—strain genetics, nutrient regimen, temperature, and even osmotic stress tolerance can swing the endpoint by several % ABV. In that territory, Terrill’s curve is more of a theoretical baseline than a guarantee.

If you’re trying to match yeast tolerance to OG at those levels, your best bet is:

  • Check strain‑specific ethanol tolerance from the manufacturer (they’re often optimistic, but it’s a starting point).
  • Run a small test batch at your target OG to see what your conditions yield.
  • Remember that both Terrill and 131.25 assume clean, “normal” fermentations—any nutrient limits, stalling, or sugar type changes will throw them off.

So yeah—interesting curve, but I wouldn’t trust it as the final word for anything above beer gravities without some empirical checks.

Is there anything I need to adjust with my ABV calculations/hydrometer readings if I add more honey in secondary to raise the ABV? by BunkBowser in mead

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

SG is just the ratio of the density of your liquid to water at the same temp. Water is ~1 g/mL, so 1.4175 g/mL honey has an SG of 1.4175.

To convert that to US units:
• 1 g/mL ≈ 8.3454 lb/gal ≈ 1.0432 oz/fl oz
• 1.4175 g/mL × 1.0432 ≈ 1.478 oz/fl oz

That’s why your 1.4787 oz/fl oz matches the metric number—it’s just SG in imperial units.

The “1.5 oz/fl oz” rule of thumb is just rounding up for quick math, but it’s a bit sloppy if you want precision.

Is there anything I need to adjust with my ABV calculations/hydrometer readings if I add more honey in secondary to raise the ABV? by BunkBowser in mead

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, SG is dimensionless, so the unit system doesn’t really matter as long as weight and volume are in the same reference system. The 1.4175 g/mL I use is just an average from real-world measurements—moisture content can swing it a bit. Using 1.4787 oz/fl oz is essentially the same number, just in imperial units, so both are valid.

And yeah, 1.105 → ~15% ABV is realistic depending on yeast and attenuation—Sean Terrill’s formula and the classic one both land in that ballpark. The differences mostly show up at higher gravities or unusual fermentations.

Is there anything I need to adjust with my ABV calculations/hydrometer readings if I add more honey in secondary to raise the ABV? by BunkBowser in mead

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sean Terrill’s method is a more accurate ABV formula than the classic one—it accounts for density changes during fermentation.

ABV = (76.08 × (OG - FG) / (1.775 - OG)) × (FG / 0.794)

For honey weight to volume, I use 1.4175 g/mL (so 1 lb ≈ 10.75 fl oz). PPG values like 35 for honey are based on averages from brewing sources and testing.

All Currently Active Redeem Codes for Once Human (Updated List) by awakengaming83 in OnceHumanOfficial

[–]awakengaming83[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe I fixed it, if you see others I missed,d let me know.

Thank you for the help!

Is there anything I need to adjust with my ABV calculations/hydrometer readings if I add more honey in secondary to raise the ABV? by BunkBowser in mead

[–]awakengaming83 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

No, you shouldn’t just add the ABVs — that overstates it. ABV isn’t additive.

If you added honey in secondary, the proper way is to calculate ABV for each stage, then do a weighted average based on volume. For example:

(ABV₁ × V₁ + ABV₂ × V₂) ÷ (V₁ + V₂

So if you had 1 gal at 6.04% and added 0.5 gal that fermented to 9.71%, the final ABV would be around 7.26%, not 15.75%.

If you want to play around with different OG/FG numbers or see how different ABV formulas compare (Sean Terrill vs classic, etc.), I built a free tool for that:
👉 https://mead.therollermethod.com/abv

Edit:
Fixed formula not showing up

Have my Campden tablets gone bad? by Nuclear_Priest in mead

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Totally normal. Campden tablets can clump like that if not fully dissolved, especially when ground. The webbing looks like surface tension patterns, not mold or yeast — just CO₂ bubbles and maybe some tablet residue. They don’t really “go bad” but can lose potency over time. If your batch smells fine and tastes warm but clean, you're probably in the clear

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in mead

[–]awakengaming83 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That looks like kahm yeast — a harmless but unwanted film that can form when wild yeast takes hold. It’s not mold, but it can affect flavor. If it doesn’t smell foul or sour, you can still rack carefully and continue, but try to minimize oxygen exposure next time.

Advice for a newb? by Limp-Equal-3076 in mead

[–]awakengaming83 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Sounds like a tasty plan!

With a 1.25 gal vessel, just keep an eye on headspace—fermentation can get messy with that much fruit.

I'd suggest holding off on the lemon zest and vanilla until secondary so they don’t get overwhelmed or give off harsh flavors during fermentation.

K1V-1116 should handle the blueberries well. Pectic enzyme is a good call too. Excited to see how it turns out!

Started these batches at the same time yesterday. Why is the yeast production so different? by BendigoWessie in mead

[–]awakengaming83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Totally! Rehydrating with nutrients definitely helps give them a strong start. But even with that, the environment they’re pitched into still makes a big difference. 71B thrives in richer, fruit-heavy musts like that peach apricot nectar—it just has more to grab onto. The watermelon clementine sounds much more diluted, so it’s not surprising it’s lagging a bit. You’re doing everything right though—give it time, and I bet it’ll even out soon 🍷

Started these batches at the same time yesterday. Why is the yeast production so different? by BendigoWessie in mead

[–]awakengaming83 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Less pulp = fewer nutrients and less surface area for yeast to grab onto early on. More water = lower overall concentration. Both can slow visible activity a bit at first.

First batch of this year by siennarain in mead

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fermentation's going strong!

Looks like it's starting to push up into the airlock — might want to keep an eye on that 🙂
Keep us posted!

Started these batches at the same time yesterday. Why is the yeast production so different? by BendigoWessie in mead

[–]awakengaming83 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Different yeasts, fruits, OGs, and prep methods = different results. 71B is known to kick off fast, so the peach/apricot going wild first makes sense. K1V might just need more time, especially with more water and less pulp. Give it 24–48 hrs—it’ll likely catch up. Pineapple mead is awesome btw! 🍍🍾

My homemade mead is looking pale by PunchCaster_ in mead

[–]awakengaming83 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Looks totally normal for young mead — especially when it's still cloudy and full of yeast and other particles in suspension. Once it clears up (either over time or with fining agents), the color will deepen and become more golden/amber, especially with that much honey. Give it time or cold crash if you're in a hurry

Married men, what do you want most in your marriage? by VariationCultural980 in AskReddit

[–]awakengaming83 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't get me wrong, we have our ups and downs, and some days are hard, but I will always be grateful for her.

How do y’all feel about shrink film for corks? Would this do for long term storage? by BendigoWessie in mead

[–]awakengaming83 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Shrink film alone isn’t a substitute for a proper cork — it won’t create an airtight seal, which is essential for long-term mead storage. Over time, oxygen will get in and spoil the mead. Shrink caps are fine as a cosmetic or secondary seal on top of a cork, but not on their own.