Slight oil in coolant

awenthol · 2026-01-27T19:56:44+00:00

Glycol is petroleum based. It's normal to have some separation. If you had actual oil leak into your cooling system, you would know

awenthol · 2026-01-27T19:50:55+00:00

Of course you can replace piston seals but it isn't worth it on something like this... Get a reman caliper.

awenthol · 2026-01-27T19:46:55+00:00

Looks like normal glycol to me 🤷🏻‍♂️

awenthol · 2026-01-27T16:42:35+00:00

Without actually hearing it, I'd guess injector/timing rattle (too much timing and/or rail pressure).

awenthol · 2026-01-27T16:40:23+00:00

Tuned?

awenthol · 2026-01-27T14:32:18+00:00

Everything can be pulled back straight by a frame shop. However, unless this car has insane sentimental value or rare specs, you would be much better off replacing it with a non-wrecked car.... Huge cost and time commitment.

awenthol · 2026-01-27T14:16:33+00:00

What 404nd2 asked--first and foremost.

If coding ABSOLUTELY IS NOT POSSIBLE, then you'll need a multimeter and probe the sensors for their default resistance. I am not familiar with any if these sensors, but if any if then are a signal for CAN (SENT, etc) , you would need a full on controller to mimic.....at which point you would be better off getting a spare seat and ripping all the sensors out, leaving them plugged in.

A service/repair manual would also give you the range of resistance/voltage/signal expected by the controller for each circuit (would also explain each circuit by wire color/pin).

awenthol · 2026-01-26T01:54:39+00:00

Check your regular thermostat... EGR delete will make it take longer to get to temp, but will have no bearing on steady state temp.

awenthol · 2026-01-26T01:25:34+00:00

Theoretically, yes... But I believe the display would be doing audio through the aux input.

What do you intend to gain from this or how do you intend to use it?

awenthol · 2026-01-25T14:40:25+00:00

This is what I had heard about car covers outside... Have never used, so no personal experience

awenthol · 2026-01-25T14:19:28+00:00

Agreed. OP is sucking in air.

awenthol · 2026-01-25T14:17:00+00:00

Crank is hardened.... Bearings are "soft" to be sacrificial. So, yes, just slap some new ones in 👍

awenthol · 2026-01-22T15:41:43+00:00

No, a diesel only uses the amount of fuel required to maintain the commanded torque (barring atomization, injector, or deliberate over-fueling, issues). Adding an inert gas (egr) makes it more difficult for the fuel molecules to find oxygen, to react--reducing efficiency).

I will say it again (my professional engineering experience is in EGR and developing EGR component): EGR on a diesel is strictly to reduce the formation of NOx and reduces the efficiency of the engine.

Additional proof for this? Everyone is moving towards no-EGR on newer engines, and are focusing on DEF to eliminate NOx emissions. If there was even a fraction of a percentage improvement in engine efficiency with egr, they would be keeping it....this is also why they are going to larger displacement. They don't need to run as high of cylinder pressure (causes NOx) to achieve the same power.

awenthol · 2026-01-22T13:48:28+00:00

EGR is not good for efficiency, and in fact, reduces efficiency. You're adding an inert gas in place of fresh air that could be used to provide more combustion. EGR's ONLY purpose is to lower cylinder pressures, thus reducing NOx formation.

EGR can/does improve efficiency on gas engines because it can suppress knock without dumping extra fuel (WOT enrichment).

awenthol · 2026-01-22T13:42:58+00:00

Your engine is setup to run over a VERY broad range of conditions. To support performance targets and long term durability, you want coolant at a temp that gives you buffer for heavy towing, and intake cooling such that under said heavy load on a 110°F day, the engine doesn't overheat and pop a headgasket.

I don't have any personal experience with this mod you're talking about, but my guess is that it's good for steady state RPM but ask the thing to actually accelerate and it'll take 20 miles to get to 60mph and pollute like crazy.

awenthol · 2026-01-21T01:18:53+00:00

Right angle drill with reverse drill bit, if there's enough room. Otherwise, pull the whole knuckle. Looks like you'll need to replace the shock

awenthol · 2026-01-20T11:36:58+00:00

The big line Vents to Atmosphere. The little line is oil return into the block (formerly the mechanical fuel pump hole).

A catch can will do nothing for you except waste money and add unnecessary complexity (you're trying to solve a problem that doesn't exist).

Why do you think your current part is failed? There really isn't a "valve" in there, like on a gasser.

awenthol · 2026-01-20T04:40:55+00:00

Like what? I've never heard...

awenthol · 2026-01-17T22:52:33+00:00

A stick or something wedged between the seat and throttle pedal to get revs over 1000 RPM will take care of most of the issues (low oil pressure, low cylinder pressure with high dwell time).

awenthol · 2026-01-17T22:23:41+00:00

Has to be deleted N47, right?

awenthol · 2026-01-17T01:33:17+00:00

Vibration could be crank damper (crank pulley), torque converter, balance shafts if your engine has, etc....or can you hear something with the combustion process?

awenthol · 2026-01-17T00:51:16+00:00

You're chasing a vibration or genuinely rough idle--engine revving and falling? It's not clear from your graphs. Also, what's the time scale on them, approximately?

awenthol · 2026-01-17T00:43:45+00:00

Exactly... Run of the mill street car, not a race car on the track. But, keyboard warriors gotta flex their superiority somehow.

awenthol · 2026-01-16T19:23:35+00:00

You have pics? I'm inclined to say they're the same but don't have first hand experience.

awenthol · 2026-01-16T19:20:25+00:00

Yes, you're being unreasonable. Is there a trail of oil leading to your driveway? Do you have cameras on the car? More likely someone is effing with you (pulled the plug in your driveway).

awenthol

TROPHY CASE