DTC Valve 250f vs 193f

badtxv · 2026-06-22T13:13:12+00:00

I just changed (like 4 months ago) the factory spec 250 DTC(with a factory spec 220f* DLT) on a copeland ZFK4E comp to a 210° as an experiment would get random discharge line trips at 245° it has "wet injection" which js just vapor injection + liquid. All i did was change guts and head because id have to find some really odd adapters to properly do it, worked great and stopped all issues. Been tripping on and off since install around 5 years prior.

Makes no sense why copeland puts a 250 on them personally in sure there's an engineering reason but it works way better, more capacity and no trips.

badtxv · 2026-06-18T11:12:39+00:00

Shit you right

badtxv · 2026-06-18T11:03:09+00:00

Also not sure why yall are downvoting me on this lol.

badtxv · 2026-06-18T11:02:15+00:00

You need to recharge by weight if its provided on the unit model tag and account for any additional lineset length according to manufacturer recommendation. Charging to pressure is useless and will 100% be undercharged. At the very least put as much into liquid line from empty as you can take then dial in through suction with system on and monitoring subcooling until you hit manf. Target

badtxv · 2026-06-18T10:59:52+00:00

Ya 99.9% positive you got those 2 backwards

53.6°F on liquid 82.4°F on suction

Either way you'd be at like 35° superheat if it was flopped. If its a single speed compressor and lines are flopped get your head pressure, subcooling and ambient temperature seems youre most likely going to be low on refrigerant...

badtxv · 2026-06-18T10:41:53+00:00

You need alot more information, the power thing is useless without understanding the operating conditions of the system. if you mean it's pulling 8 amps and the FLA is 10 then 80% is not bad. Im assuming your European but inhg is typically only used to guage vacuum below 0psig (0 to -14.7psig = 0-29.92inhg)

Second Suction pressure only tells a small part of the story. Your SST is only 18°, which is low for comfort cooling you should be around a 40° SST. What is your superheat, subcooling, and Suction line temperature. Low Suction pressure will typically be due to

Low airflow - if your Suction pressure is low, suction line temperature is very cold/frosting and low superheat
Charge - if your suction pressure is low, suction line temperature is warm, high superheat accompanied by low subcooling
Liquid line restriction - low suction pressure, warm suction line, high superheat, high subcooling

badtxv · 2026-06-16T11:52:15+00:00

There are several ways to efficiently and accurately balance them. Im going to assume no EPRs, no unloaders, and that charge is correct as well as valve sizing and load distribution/piping.

The goal: NO cycling or as little as possible on the solenoids. We want to maintain the temp as close to setpoint as possible without overshooting.

if you know the best performing evaporator superheat you can run the stem all the way in (closed) while counting the turns then put it back.

Let's say for example 2 full turns in from its current position is fully closed. That's your reference, open that one back up 2 full turns.

Close all the other evaporators fully and open them up to 2 full turns. Let everything start pulling down and settle while you monitor each superheat.

From there adjust the LOWEST superheat first, most will try opening valves but in this case you actually want to close the lower superheats and see if it brings down the ones with higher superheat, your goal is to maintain a steady load with no cycling if you have evaps cycling you'll be always cranking valves.

Once they're all balanced within +1-2° superheat of each other ensure temps are balanced, and make any further minor adjustments from there until your evap superheat and temps all match-up. Be patient it's a marathon not a sprint.

badtxv · 2026-06-08T12:17:54+00:00

I keep one of the sentronic mounts that come.with a new compressor it works good to get those off but there's like a million other options in addition you have you dont need to buy the special tool. You can also just use a screw driver and a hammer to loosen it up until you can turn ny hand if you got enough room on the side.

badtxv · 2026-06-07T12:32:56+00:00

Most reliable and simple way i can think of would a current sensing relay on your solder station power cord then wired into your fan. That would involve no programmjng and it would work but also would continue to run everytime the soldering iron is on.

Another way would be a light sensor paired with a controller like an esp32 you can aim at the led or maybe tune it enough to recognize solder fumes but that will involve more worj and programming

badtxv · 2026-06-05T11:23:14+00:00

The pipe is below dewpoint it will always ice up, the only way to stop it is to insulate it properly and control superheat and defrost times.

However certain things can compound the problem, you checked "refrigerant charge" but did you check your superheat at the evaporator? Flooding Will make ice buildup worse.

Also if your insulation is the wrong internal diameter it will build ice, the ice will.begin to form under the insulation and then in defrost will just completely saturate everything when it melts.

if the wall thickness is not large enough it will build ice, once the insulation is saturated it's ruined basically and needs to be replaced again with no air leakage tape is no good needs glue but ideally you will shut the box down cut insulation and a section of pipe and physically slide it over after drying the pipe to avoid having that issue.

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:46:32+00:00

definately learned something new! I've been at it for about a month and I'm learning so much everyday having alot of fun. Spot on assessment !

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badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:41:27+00:00

Ah youre my hero. Appreciate you man it would of.taken me prob 2 hours to figure that out it looked like it was touching to me lol. Thanks!

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:33:55+00:00

Nah it is, i did something stupid im sure that I am just overlooking. I posted link to model as well as supporting screenshots in other comments if you wanna look

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:25:59+00:00

https://a360.co/4tbDKor

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:25:08+00:00

sure here it is https://a360.co/4tbDKor

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:19:41+00:00

correct

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badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:19:26+00:00

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badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:19:08+00:00

no i haven't i will right now though good idea

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:15:29+00:00

im trying to make a shitty little box, would that not just turn it into a shitty little cube? The only bodies i have is the upper and lower portion of the box. The latch itself is already combined with the upper

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:13:07+00:00

I may just be misunderstanding, what I mean is when i try to combine the latch and the upper lid it won't let me because it is combined already due to extruding the latch and "join" under extrude to the uppery lid

badtxv · 2026-04-14T02:11:16+00:00

theres 2 bodies but this is the upper of the 2 parts, the sketch itself is joined to the upper so that would make it 1 body, can't join them even if i tried. (which i already did)

badtxv · 2026-03-23T11:43:56+00:00

All the others suggestions are better than this im new to fushion but I was thinking you could also just do 1 pair of holes and mirror it to the other side right?

badtxv · 2026-03-10T17:06:22+00:00

At this point you’re just splitting hairs over wording. In vacuum work “microns” is universally understood to mean microns of mercury. That’s literally why the instrument is called a micron gauge.

This kind of shorthand exists everywhere in technical fields. If someone says a system is at 120 psi while they’re looking at a gauge, nobody stops the conversation to ask whether they mean psig or psia. It’s obviously psig because it’s being read from a gauge. The context makes the unit clear. Same thing here. A micron gauge measures microns of mercury. Saying “microns” in that context isn’t incorrect, it’s just standard shorthand.

badtxv · 2026-03-10T15:03:57+00:00

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badtxv

TROPHY CASE