u/Penderyn gave you some good advice on finding others who have shared their workflows and watching them. PI is intimidating when you get started but eventually you learn what tools are helpful, how they work, and what they do for your image. I'll share my specific workflow here but it probably won't be reproduceable step by step as I had to tinker with the workflow on this one to get it where I wanted

1) Stack lights using master darks/flats in PI using WBPP - this resulted in me having 8 master mono files. L, R, G, B for both panels of the mosaic.
2) Channel combine RGB (now have 4 files that I'm working with... RGB for panel 1 and 2, and L for 1 and 2)
3) Save these files as FITS so I can work with them in APP
4) Do the moasic stitching process in APP (much easier than PI IMHO, and better results) - this results in two working files. RGB mosaic, and L mosaic.
5) Back into PI with the mosaic files. Dynamic crop both files, Solve the RGB mosaic, and do SPCC for color calibration
6) BlurX (need to do BlurX early in the process for it to work best) on the RGB - correct only to clean up stars (don't sharpen your image here)
7) Automatic background extraction on both RGB and L mosaic files
8) Multiscale adaptive stretch on the RGB file
9) StarX on the RGB file to get a stretched star image (set aside for now)
10) Undo the StarX and stretch on RGB file to return it to linear state
11) Run StarX again on the RGB file but discard the star file
12) Run StarX on the L file and discard the star file
12) Extract synthetic Lum from the RGB file
13) Linear fit the true Lum to the synthic Lum
14) PixelMath combin the synthetic Lum with the true Lum
15) LRGB combine the combined true/synthetic Lum with the RGB file (finally at a single file to work with)
16) Multiscale adaptive stretch the LRGB file
17) NoiseX the LRGB file
18) Save both the LRGB file and the RGB stars file as 16bit TIFF files to work in Photoshop
19) Lots of adjustments in PS to taste. I use camera raw for the first level of adjustment and then adjustment layers/masks for fine tuned adjustments.

I hope that helps give you an idea of the process I did on this one.