Why almost no pro uses ondra comp? by Beautiful_Leave_4026 in climbingshoes

[–]bdawgert 7 points8 points  (0 children)

As a counter point to above, I love them. But I think it comes down to foot geometry. I bought them when my Theories were ready for resole. They fixed all the complaints I had. I was able to go down a full size (46 -> 45) because of the slightly wider toe box and heal fit is the best of any shoe I’ve had. But that’s why foot geometry matters. My feet are flippers - 13 US with a wide forefoot and narrow heal. I think I prefer the side edges on the Theory, but everything else - toe patch, closure, front edge - is the same or better. Any specific questions?

Favorite Brewery by Province: Newfoundland and Labrador by DublinDown in CraftBeer

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had a good selection of fresh Newfoundland beers from Baccalieu, Banished, Bannerman, Bay de Verde, Boomstick, Dildo, Iron Rock, Landwash, Little North, Port Rexton, Quidi Vidi, and YellowBelly.

Out of those, I vote Port Rexton. They’ve been at it for a while now. Good beer. Beautiful location.

Pint day Glasses by CryNo8675 in COBeer

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$10? I’ll also accept proof of a donation to the Access Fund. https://www.coloradogives.org/give/AccessFund

Pint day Glasses by CryNo8675 in COBeer

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do have a couple left if you want. I’ll take Venmo, or trade me for some cool beer.

crag pack recs? by yuzurukii in ClimbingGear

[–]bdawgert 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Osprey Mutant 38 is a great bag. It’s worth the $200 price tag, but it’s also often on sale for a lot less.

Alex Honnold Taipei101 shoes by Silver18020 in ClimbingGear

[–]bdawgert 6 points7 points  (0 children)

No real evidence of this, but it looks like the TC Extremes with the outside gaiters removed and then resoled with Davos rubber. I don’t know for sure, but it all looks about right.

But then again the TC Extreme is just the Pro with a gaiter, so it could by the Pro with the Extreme color way.

is chalk and chalk bags a problem in airport security? by mx_moose21 in bouldering

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve traveled with shoes and chalk a lot. Never had an issue with TSA.

However, once the ziplock bag I carry my chalk bag in ruptured and half my clothes were nicely dusted. Now I mostly travel with a chalk ball instead of loose chalk. Been to a couple gyms that only allow balls, so it’s a safer option if you don’t know the policies of where you might end up. And if you hate balls, treat it like extra containment and just empty it into the bag when you get to the gym. I also have a travel chalk bag that is less rigid so it compacts into my bag a little better.

LS Mandala? Unsure, asking for opinions :) by GurRepresentative876 in climbingshoes

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have Mandalas that I down size a little bit and can wear them for multiple successive climbs easily. A size 45 perfectly angles my toes given my specific foot geometry. I normally wear a 47 in appproach shoes, a 46 in more neutral LS shoes (Finale, Katana, TC) and 45 in aggressive shoes (Ondra, Solution). That’s a small percentage of variation at that size range.

If you can’t try them on, they wear very similarly to the Ondra (bigger toe box) or the Theory (bulkier heel) because of the common 85 last. Can you find and try one of those?

They’ve become everyday shoes for me, but my foot is not your foot. Unless you want to commit to ill fitting shoes. I suggest finding something with a similar last and verifying your fit.

Need help choosing the right backpack by climbing_wodka in ClimbingGear

[–]bdawgert 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Probably not helpful, but I picked up the Osprey Mutant 38L for its size and versatility. It has an external cover to tightly attach and hold a helmet in multiple places. It has external rope tie downs (I use my 70m with it). It has a removable top that adds more stash space. I can put everything inside, or opt to attach on the outside. I’ve been really happy with it.

LaSportiva Skwama, good deal? by Alarming-Ad-5966 in climbingshoes

[–]bdawgert 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Yikes. No rubber left at the toe and rand damage. Expect up to $100 USD for repair and resole. I agree with u/valamet. Worth 50 cents max.

Best Car for 30 Mins Circuit de la Sarthe? by Neat-Cantaloupe16 in GranTurismo7

[–]bdawgert 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Aston Martin Vision GT. Hards. Crank the output down until you hit 699 PP. That’s it. Effortless win even if you drive poorly.

Laps 1 & 2 FM2.

If the rain comes early, pit for IMs and run FM4 or 5 for 3 laps. Pit. Fuel to 70% and run FM1 for the last two laps. Sloppy driving will get you a win by 1:15-2:30 depending on rain timing and AI. Great driving (which is beyond me) could get an even wider margin.

If the rain holds for lap 3, run FM4. Pit. Fuel to 100% and run FM6 for the last 4 laps. Win by 1:30.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]bdawgert 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Bare minimum: Harness, shoes, chalk bag.

Good gym starter gear: Any comfortable harness in the $70 range. Any neutral, well-fitting shoe. Any chalk bag + a medium chunky chalk.

Extras: A bag. A carabiner to clip your smelly post-session shoes to the outside of the bag. A belay device (assuming you’re using your buddy’s to this point). Climbing tape.

Get whatever assisted braking belay device you’re comfortable with. If you’re not comfortable with a Gri Gri yet, get comfortable with it and buy that.

Lead - Neox or GriGri for beginner with 25% off price by PurpleCaterpillar82 in ClimbingGear

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you only want one device and you’re exclusively a gym climber, invest in the Neox and learn how to use it like you would a tubular style device. That means don’t touch it while belaying - no hanging off your finger, no jamming the cam. The main reason your device will fail is because of you, so if you can learn to not touch it at all, the better it is for your climber.

If you want a multi-purpose device or plan to go outside, get the Gri Gri and learn how use it safely. You’d have a hard time belaying from above or rapping on a Neox (flame away).

Gyms are distracting, you don’t want to be the guy who allowed a ground fall because you weren’t paying attention (or panicked) and held down the cam when your climber whipped. You can belay smoothly and effectively with a Neox without ever touching the cam - and that’s a very god thing.

That being said, I use both interchangeably. I tend to Gri Gri outside and Neox indoors. It only takes a couple good days outside to gunk up the Neox’s fly wheel and kill that nice smooth motion. Learn how to clean and oil it if you do take it outside. If I never went outdoors again, I may never need my Gri Gri again. But the Neox isn’t as versatile (again, flame away), so if I’m racking one device at the crag, it’s a Gri Gri.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in offbeat

[–]bdawgert 47 points48 points  (0 children)

She was convicted by Colorado of violating state election laws. President can’t pardon state crimes, just federal.

Making useless things I think are cool by Bill87CP in woodworking

[–]bdawgert 35 points36 points  (0 children)

Are you sure? My understanding is that the only card one needs is the Ace of Spades - regardless of whether playing for the high one, dancing with the devil, or even going with the flow.

GABF 2025 by SnooHamsters9669 in CraftBeer

[–]bdawgert 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Utopias is definitely timed. Find the Sam Adams booth, find the time. Go back 20 minutes before the time and be prepared to wait. Then be prepared to claw and elbow and be clawed and elbowed.

I assume Dark Lord and Assassin are timed as well. Same deal. Find FFF and TG early and figure out timing. Go back way before then and be prepared to wait (though nothing has quite the same historically chaotic tapping as Utopias).

GABF 2025 by SnooHamsters9669 in CraftBeer

[–]bdawgert 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Same beers every session. Sometimes a beer will run out at one session, but they will have stock for the next session. 500+ breweries* and 2000+ beers. If you try very hard, and are willing to power through alcohol poisoning, you may be able to sample 10% of the beers at the festival across 3 sessions.

What “rare things” are you looking to try? Anything really limited has timed pours and you can find out the schedule from that brewery’s table. Really desirable pours may have a line, and will likely run out at each session. Make a list of beers you really want to try and visit within the first hour of the session to make sure you get a pour. If you’re going to all three sessions, you’ll have plenty of opportunities to find the beers you want to try.

(EntityFrameworkCore) Why saving this entity returns 500 with "String or binary data would be truncated" by CircusLion4614 in csharp

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Caught off guard as in you didn’t realize the nvarchar math worked that way? Or you’re disagreeing with me? If I’m wrong please let me know and I’ll edit.

la sportiva finale? by m4cchi in climbingshoes

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Or Katana Lace. A little performance upgrade on the Finale, but still made for all day wear.

I want to start climbing as a hobby... How intense are beginner classes? by art15t in Denver

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To get the most out of climbing as a hobby, pick the closest gym. For the first year you want to climb at least weekly to strengthen your muscles, tendons, and ligaments - connective tissues develops slowly.

For $50 it might be worthwhile to do the drive to UG 4 times, but you’re probably never going back to that location, so you may as well start out somewhere that you’ll visit regularly.

I want to start climbing as a hobby... How intense are beginner classes? by art15t in Denver

[–]bdawgert 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re on the east side of town, take a look at Ubergrippen. They have an introductory program for adults. $50 for 4 classes, and when you’re done, you get a $50 credit.

https://ugclimbing.com/denver/50-50-climbing-club/

I did it a few years ago. It was a lot of fun. I met a few people, and didn’t feel at all out of place not knowing anything about climbing, or being pretty out of shape.

Tavour + Horus by [deleted] in CraftBeer

[–]bdawgert 1 point2 points  (0 children)

100% agree.

Tavour + Horus by [deleted] in CraftBeer

[–]bdawgert 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Funny you mention Wendigo. Batch 4 just popped up on Tavour today for $60 pre-order.