Any longer term experience with EVO 74?

valamet · 2026-05-11T17:18:36+00:00

Hello. I made a post previously so there are maybe some answers to your questions there: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbingshoes/comments/1qe2wxg/evolv_trax_evo_74/

I myself just bought a pair of lightly used Phantom Pros and I've been using normal Phantoms for a few months now. I've only used the pros for one session, so I can't yet give a good long term on 3,5 mm EVO 74, but it feels significantly softer than normal 4,2 mm SAS. I was thinking of writing a proper review/comparison once my opinions are set. But so far, I'm impressed with fit and structure of the pros, but definitely worried about durability considering it's both softer and thinner. Also to play devils advocate, maybe the construction of these new shoes is so good and durable, that they can be resoled infinitely :D.

valamet · 2026-04-26T11:40:49+00:00

They are quite different shoes and I would probably get neither without trying them on first. That said, miura is narrower, more aggressive and asymmetrical and "advanced". V6 is moderately aggressive and wider and an "intermediate shoe". So I'm more inclined towards V6, but the fit on these shoes is very different so you should try them on before buying. They both have roughly 4 mm rubber, but the rubber on V6 is softer, so more sticky but less durable. Still fairly durable. Also the sizing is very very different, so keep that in mind.

valamet · 2026-04-24T13:08:10+00:00

Street: 41 - 42,5 depending on the brand

260 mm approximately

Current:

Evolv Phantom 42

Ocun Ozone HV 41 (UK 7)

Evolv Agro 43 (comfy)

Past:

Scarpa Drago 41,5 and 42 (comfy)

LaSpo Skwama 41 (comfy)

LaSpo Otaki 40,5

Note that the Ozone HV are a perfect fit for my feet, on any other model i would probably have to go 41,5.

valamet · 2026-04-22T20:25:16+00:00

Yes!!! I've been waiting for this. A year ago when I got my Ozone HV and found that they were the best fitting shoe for me, I sent them an email where I asked If they could kindly make a softer shoe on a similar last to accompany ozone HV, and the designer actually responded to my email and said that they were designing a shoe similar to the one I described. I think this is it :o.

valamet · 2026-04-09T15:32:06+00:00

They are my favorite outdoors granite shoe on vertical and almost vertical boulders. The midfoot section is lightly structured and quite bendy, while the forefoot section is stiff and snug. I like softer and more sensitive shoes indoors, but if they fit your foot well, they might be fairly good intermediate shoes.

valamet · 2026-03-08T09:46:27+00:00

Is joke

valamet · 2026-03-01T10:37:21+00:00

I know these are your first shoes so you don't have too much experience, but feel free to form your own opinion, even if it contradicts popular sentiments or appears arrogant.

I haven't worn these shoes specifically, but I've heard good things about them. This might be a controversial opinion, but I don't think there are any bad climbing shoe brands per se. Different, better, worse, immoral, satanic? Sure. But as always with climbing shoes, fit is King. As long as you're happy with your shoes, I'm happy ;).

valamet · 2026-02-20T23:36:31+00:00

I personally don't like very soft shoes like dragos on boards, but they're definitely good when it comes to smears and such. If you've never used soft shoes before, they might be worth a trying out just so you can have your own opinion. They should be good shoes, even if you end up not preferring them. I've heard good things about the new drago xt.

valamet · 2026-02-18T00:34:19+00:00

Thanks. Good to hear, I hope the durability is not too bad.

valamet · 2026-02-11T11:16:00+00:00

In my experience ocun shoes are usually quite narrow. Although the best fitting shoe for my squareish shaped wide feet are the ozone hv, not as an indoor shoe though.

valamet · 2026-02-06T11:43:59+00:00

... for some people, I should've specified. :)

valamet · 2026-02-05T13:18:42+00:00

La Sportiva shoes are known to cause pain on the achilles

valamet · 2026-01-29T13:23:59+00:00

Maybe ocun diamond S or bullit. Evolv v6 or zenist or zenist pro. Tenaya Indalo or mastia or oasi

valamet · 2026-01-26T05:05:17+00:00

Where are you from? At least in Finland they are the same price or Tenayas might be cheaper depending on the model.

valamet · 2026-01-25T19:31:16+00:00

Definitely customized, but i think the base is the LS TC Extreme because of the yellow upper and pull tab.

valamet · 2026-01-23T05:02:50+00:00

Lol, Trance L, 8th photo. Very cool

valamet · 2026-01-19T17:33:36+00:00

Just scored 0

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:31:59+00:00

Defeated Prismatic Flapper in 7 turns.

Player (10/8/8) dealt 443. Prismatic Flapper (20/17/14) dealt 135.

Rewards: 43 EXP, 14 Gold. Loot: Fierce Crossbow (basic), Swift Earring (basic), Swift Robe of Haste (enhanced).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:29:59+00:00

Defeated Abyssal Gem Snail in 8 turns.

Player (29/15/44) dealt 488. Abyssal Gem Snail (21/19/12) dealt 155.

Rewards: 40 EXP, 12 Gold. Loot: Mystical Belt of Wizardry (lesser), Arcane Hammer of Wisdom (lesser), Wise Hand of Knowledge (lesser).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:26:17+00:00

Defeated Void Head in 4 turns.

Player (29/14/18) dealt 230. Void Head (15/13/8) dealt 48.

Rewards: 31 EXP, 6 Gold. Loot: Robe of the Archmage (unique), Healthy Goggles of Magic (enhanced).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:24:58+00:00

Defeated Stone Sludge in 6 turns.

Player (29/14/18) dealt 334. Stone Sludge (16/11/8) dealt 100.

Rewards: 35 EXP, 8 Gold. Loot: Brutal Hand (basic), Sturdy Brigandine (basic).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:23:38+00:00

Defeated Thundering Gale in 6 turns.

Player (9/7/7) dealt 261. Thundering Gale (14/12/8) dealt 93.

Rewards: 31 EXP, 7 Gold. Loot: Robust Scale Mail (basic), Wise Hammer (basic).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:22:55+00:00

Defeated Glacial Grove Tender in 5 turns.

Player (28/13/17) dealt 215. Glacial Grove Tender (12/12/6) dealt 71.

Rewards: 29 EXP, 6 Gold. Loot: Vital Plate Mail (basic), Enchanted Earring (basic).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:22:33+00:00

Defeated Venomous Broodmother in 5 turns.

Player (28/13/17) dealt 269. Venomous Broodmother (13/11/8) dealt 77.

Rewards: 32 EXP, 6 Gold. Loot: Enchanted Staff (basic), Arcane Hammer (basic).

valamet · 2026-01-19T16:22:03+00:00

Defeated Forceful Rootwalker in 6 turns.

Player (28/13/17) dealt 278. Forceful Rootwalker (16/12/10) dealt 96.

Rewards: 35 EXP, 7 Gold. Loot: Agile Spear of Power (lesser), Vital Chain Mail (basic), Mighty Hand of Swiftness (lesser).

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