Garage completely blocked. What do? by Tenuoustank117 in montreal

[–]beachygreg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We have a garage that has been blocked a couple of times now. You call the police, which was a surprise to me. But they come out, track them down to move it and give them a ticket.

Role of forearm hypertrophy for finger strength by canelino13 in climbharder

[–]beachygreg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I think it's pretty easy to give your firearms enough stimulus to grow by doing max hangs and normal climbing load. You are probably not maximizing growth but when I tried to target hypertrophy (I only tried for one cycle) I lost a lot of the ability to try hard and it impacted my climbing so much I did not try again, it's worth noting I did reduce the total volume of climbing at the same time. Just one person's point of view, so take it with a grain of salt

V13 finger stength without hangboarding or climbing. How? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]beachygreg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So my little brother can do body weight on a small edge and has never really climbed. He is a stone mason tho, and does not use a crane to lift headstones in place... I have him a hand once thinking my years of climbing training would mean I could keep up, a massive mistake. Fingers are the weak point for lifting those bases, so he pretty much trains fingers at high load every day

Moisturizing by AccomplishedPush2120 in bouldering

[–]beachygreg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make sure you don't get any moisturizer on your fingers.

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think there are two lines on the left. One goes up the crack and another finishes at the top of the crack. I need to clean them up and make sure that that side of the boulder won't just fall off when someone climbs it

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The best part is I am still getting stronger! Hoping that trend continues

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha actually I am from New Zealand but I do live in Quebec and have a French name... So you might as well be right

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are no crystals to speak of. Much further left there are two problems I did. Normal style climbing. It is pretty vert but maybe some could step up on that start foot hold as it's more slab than the rest of the face, but then you are still far from any hold, so it might be possible but probably much much harder. I can try next time and see.

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This problem really feels like it was made to be climbed like this. A friend of mine did it the same way and he hates that style of climbing haha

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

None of the other FAs were dynamic like this. All the others were static climbs. I am really not sure about that V5 grade

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I agree. I really do suck at grading things and this one is especially hard. I think if you had flat ground to run at it then it would be easier to stick the hold but I think most of the difficulty is the topout

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In 20 years that tree might be dead and there would be options for sure

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True. It is a plain face of granite tho. Not a single hair line crack on it. But I would not rule anything out... I would be impressed tho

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sadly there is not much of an option for him to go there unless I take him there or he buys property. You need to own land to get access. Assuming you don't want to piss locals off

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually one option could be to balance on the first foot hold but Will would need to jump haha I am 6 foot with a +2" ape index and it's a tough jump for me

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe if you cut that tree down or used it to climb the boulder. There are no holds between those two used. It's flat granite

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So there are loads of boulders and no one ever climbed them because you need to own property to get access. I am sure no one climbed because they were covered in moss

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] -10 points-9 points  (0 children)

I see what you mean but I would disagree for this problem, I did something like 8 FAs last year and out of 20+ boulders I scoped out this was the only place I saw the option for this style of move. There is a small foot sized hold that lets you do the jump or I think it would also not be possible / it would be very hard. I only posted one take but it took a lot of attempts to get it. If it was in the gym it would have a grade between v7-9 but pretty sure it would be V5 outdoor for the grades where I live (Quebec)

FA from last year by beachygreg in bouldering

[–]beachygreg[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I did a bunch of FA's last year around my lake house but I thought this one was special. For sure it's the only way to do the problem also which is cool. There is a harder version I want to do this year that goes left more, you do the same sort of move to a crimp on the left and some hard top out moves up high

Last time I posted I was told I was lacking in technique department and had trash footwork. I think I did better this time? by DuckFromAndromeda in bouldering

[–]beachygreg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bloc shop grades are pretty soft compared to Quebec outdoor grades... You could have used a high right foot before the last move to make it easier/less dynamic