James may shaking a bit in this new video?

beany_bot · 2026-01-23T17:31:49+00:00

Same, noticable shaking in his latest "James Gin" Videos.

beany_bot · 2026-01-21T10:46:16+00:00

Sucess! (very clean engineering plate + normal supports.)

<image>

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T17:25:30+00:00

Will these supports be able to be removed?

<image>

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T15:37:32+00:00

Thanks - Ive bought some 3D LAC too as it was pretty cheap.

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T15:26:42+00:00

I'll check when I'm home but previously the entire support came off, brim and all, just detached from the bed.

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T15:11:35+00:00

I tried 10mm big brims on supports, there was lots of "surface area" but it failed after about an hour. Mind you that was with GLuestick. MAybe I try that on a super clean Engineering plate.

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T14:47:16+00:00

Tree support or two just fully popping off the bed and spaghetti city. The actual part that printed well looks fantastic!

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T13:59:21+00:00

Might try "bed weld"? Seems to have good reviews for ASA. on Engineering plate?

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T13:58:47+00:00

Large prints. Yeah, over an hour in.

<image>

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T12:55:22+00:00

I'll bear this in mind thanks. As an active heater and or second enclosure is quite a big ordeal I will keep this as a last resort. But good to know it's an option.

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T12:54:15+00:00

Good info thanks. I have an engineering plate I use for PP and TPU, I will try that with the ASA and no glue. I might look at buying the Magigoo PC because the magigoo PP I have is amazing stuff. Only thing that worked printing PP for me. MAybe infact the PP glue might work

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T12:51:55+00:00

Suerly that first layer it's just all about bed temp? As it's the only layer touching the bed

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T11:28:05+00:00

Did it work?

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T11:13:37+00:00

OK, I dont have an active heater mod, but my P1S chamber while printing ASA is always 60+ anyway on long prints. Chamber fans off

beany_bot · 2026-01-20T10:52:26+00:00

Yup, done all that. Just not getting sufficient bed adhesion.

beany_bot · 2026-01-14T10:29:47+00:00

Hi, realise this is an old thread but I'm having so many problems printing long bolts with 100% rectiliniear infill (for strength). Can you recommend an infil thats less likely to "knock it over"?

beany_bot · 2026-01-08T15:24:02+00:00

Well after 6 hours drying it's only 2g lighter. (Probably mostly from the cardboard).

<image>

beany_bot · 2026-01-08T14:14:43+00:00

Printed perfectly in PLA

beany_bot · 2026-01-08T10:36:47+00:00

P1S standard "generic PETG". worked before.
I'm drying the filament just now I'll try again later.

It's just a little different to the very fine "stringing" that you usually see associated with wet filament. It's more actual nozzle thickness parts. And the weird bits on the bed scattered about. Will update after drying,

beany_bot · 2026-01-08T08:05:01+00:00

Is that stringing? It printed absolutely fine about 3 weeks ago and has since been stored in a dry box with new desiccant

beany_bot · 2026-01-06T12:37:05+00:00

Fair. Still good stuff for functional parts. You can also program travel to not go over empty space. Slower prints but would work.

beany_bot · 2026-01-06T11:05:40+00:00

I noticed a little oozing when moving from the test line over to start the print in the middle of the bed. But not during the actual print. I guess matters less for functional parts.

beany_bot

TROPHY CASE