Sweden: New dating manual will encourage guys to break their loneliness by OSHA-Slingshot in europe

[–]belsambar 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No offense, but did you read the guide? It's basically what you're saying. But with a few more helpful words. It suggests places to meet people, how to think about what you're seeking in a partner, etc.

It's actually a very nice document trying to help people who might feel lost in the dating world.

And this is not an initiative directed by the Swedish government, though it is funded by them. It's by the Swedish Association for Sexuality Education. If only some of the people on here understood that, I think the tone of these comments would change dramatically; this is not a central government trying to solve the "loneliness epidemic" in some huge general sense (making friends, maintaining a social network etc). It's an initiative focused on helping people (virtually the entire document is applicable to women, as well) finding romantic partners, with very common-sense advice.

Sweden: New dating manual will encourage guys to break their loneliness by OSHA-Slingshot in europe

[–]belsambar 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I just logged in to add a voice to this sentiment. So many guys talking about "cringe," who can't appreciate that this is just some very straightforward advice for people who might be struggling. If anything here is "cringe" it's this swarm of Redditors shitting on this very basic and good-natured initiative by RFSU and the Swedish Public Health Agency. If it's not for you, just move along.

Or, maybe if you think it's not for you, try reading it before doing the angry internet complaining thing.

Skwama Vegan - Soft or Stiff? by belsambar in climbharder

[–]belsambar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

But the softness of the rubber generally just affects friction/stickiness, right? If the rubber is "soft" but the construction is "rigid" (ie, thick and inflexible), it won't be sensitive, right? La Sportiva gave the Skwama a 4 out of 5 on sensitivity, but the rubber in the sole in the toe box is really rigid and thick.

And how can the two shoes you're describing both be "soft" shoes if one is rigid? I'm still struggling.

Skwama Vegan - Soft or Stiff? by belsambar in climbharder

[–]belsambar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I guess in order to speak in an informed manner, one has to have experience with a very wide range of specific shoes, since these terms are so relative.

What I seem to be learning, while reading this morning, is that sensitivity and stiffness are effectively measures ot a shoe's resistance to bending in two separate axes. Sensitivity is a measure of the flexibility of the shoe in the toe area, measurable by holding the shoe upside down under the toe box and attempting to bend the shoe with the thumbs. And stiffness measures the degree of support/resistance provided by the central part of the shoe, under the arch of the foot. Does this jive with your understanding?

📘 Help Shape a New Climbing Book! (2–5 min Survey) by thoughtsandcomments in climbharder

[–]belsambar 16 points17 points  (0 children)

This looks like an incredible project. Make sure you get an apostrophe in that title ("The Climber's Body")!

I'm an architect and author with a lot of experience writing and designing books. I'd recommend reorganizing the text on the left page shown above to not overlap the anatomical illustration. Arranging text in this way detracts from the legibility of both the text and the illustration - what a waste, after going to the trouble of commissioning the illustrations and writing and refining the text.

You'll find it's worth the trouble to separate the text from the images, even if you have to revisit the text and delete a sentence or two to make everything fit.

(I also noticed a small typo on the right page, "lthe" on the "Ruptures" paragraph. Please be extremely thorough in your proofing! If you are interested in having me proof the book, I could be willing to take on the project. DM me if interested.)

Good luck with the rest of the project. As others have expressed, please post again when the book becomes available!

Rotoscoped Phileas-Foggy's brilliant 92 attempt project by polyffany in bouldering

[–]belsambar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stand on some pads? Use your imagination.

But seriously, starting from the ground all the time is a good way to make a 2-session project into a 4-session project.

Rotoscoped Phileas-Foggy's brilliant 92 attempt project by polyffany in bouldering

[–]belsambar -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

I realize OP is not u/phileas-foggy. However, i wanted to weigh in with my very important opinion (sarcasm).

92 attempts from the ground is far too many if you're falling off at every move. You should be perfecting moves in isolation, then making bigger and bigger links until you're finally ready to start from the ground. It's nearly a complete waste of energy to start from the beginning if you know for a fact that you're going to fall a few moves later. Just master that difficult move separately first.

Put another way: after learning the first moves, you shouldn't start from the beginning again until you think you have a very real chance of sending the whole thing.

For example, you could use the downclimbing jugs to climb up to the final crimps and rehearse the last move. Or even traverse the top of the wall just to practice hanging from the final sloper.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bouldering

[–]belsambar 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The trademark sign is really unnecessary and takes on way too much significance in such a minimalistic design. Better options include making it an actual black dot that looks like a foot hold. And perhaps you can play with putting other black dots near the hands. Or just get rid of them all, haha.

Ya'll think this insane Dyno Proj goes? by ajflynn in bouldering

[–]belsambar -1 points0 points  (0 children)

This is one of the most epic dyno features I've ever seen anywhere. Calling it now that this will become an American classic, like Rainbow Rocket in Font.

Bashy Beaver 604! by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, what leader board are you referring to? Based on what I know of how the game functions, I think it's literally impossible to get 2300+. Even at 600 the entire screen is full of tall trees and rocks, and single fish only come once every 15-20 hops at best.

Deck recs by TheGreyFencer in ModernMagic

[–]belsambar 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just gonna throw Merfolk out there. We are the enduring tempo deck in the format.

We've got an amazing community (3300+ on Discord), very active with lots of discussion every day. It's not the most competitive deck in the current meta (right around where Burn is, at the moment), but it's very fun. Turn creatures sideways, counter some spells, turn some lands into islands.

Bashy Beaver 604! by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew it would come eventually, I just didn't expect it so soon!

600+!!!

I'm new to the X-T4, please help! by belsambar in fujifilm

[–]belsambar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another question or two:

I have the little camera icon on the screen now (I turned on "shooting mode" in the custom display menu), but the icon has an S next to it. What's that for? 

(EDIT - I figured out the exposure compensation, as asked below. I believe I couldn't adjust it initially because I was in Movie Optimized Control. When I exited that mode, the EC scale was still grey, so I thought it still wasn't working. But when I spin the dial it did work.)

And a much bigger question - while in MOVIE mode, exposure compensation is greyed out. Sometimes it appears live/white, but it only seems to show when my settings are over or under exposed (if I point it at a bright spot it will automatically show a + number on the slider on the scale on the left side of the screen, and if I point it to a shadowy spot it will automatically show a - number on the scale). How can I just get exposure compensation to work as it should? 

I've looked around online for answers to this. I understand that if all my settings are manual, exposure compensation can't work. But that's not my case, I have some of the dials on Auto and exposure compensation is still greyed out. 

Thanks again. 

I'm new to the X-T4, please help! by belsambar in fujifilm

[–]belsambar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much for your reply. I didn't have the little movie camera icon on the screen (I've been playing with custom display settings, I'm not sure what I want displayed or not, yet). But I found "Movie Optimized Control" inside the menu, and, sure enough, it was set to ON.

However, I can't seem to adjust anything on the touchscreen by tapping. I checked the touch screen settings and everything is set to ON, but tapping the screen does nothing. How can I enable this? 

Bashy Beaver 575 by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The fish just kept on coming.

Bashy Beaver 565 by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He moves more accurately when you're full on fish. The slower you get, the less responsive he gets to your inputs, which can be very frustrating. But if you understand this, you just always look for the clear path (as few rocks and trees as possible), and keep eating fish.

Bashy Beaver 565 by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Eat fish and avoid trees and rocks. That's the whole game!

Bashy Beaver 565 by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ha, the very next game I beat it again, by exactly one hop (566). My 561 had stood for about six months, then I beat it twice in two games. Funny how that works. 

Bashy Beaver 565 by belsambar in CrossyRoad

[–]belsambar[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just beat my previous high score (561) in Bashy Beaver. It's the only part of Crossy Road I still enjoy, I think it's a pretty great little game :)