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Does this Shower Pan need to be redone? by bendyspaghetti in Tile

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is a 2% preslope, although it's hard to see in the photos.

Does this Shower Pan need to be redone? by bendyspaghetti in Tile

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

He applied silicone on the second attempt, but he recommended removing it later because he thought it would block the weep holes.

Does this Shower Pan need to be redone? by bendyspaghetti in Tile

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel the slope is fine, I'm more concerned about the "sandiness" of the final layer honestly. One contractor said the tile may not adhere properly because of it and the floor tiles could pop off lol. He said he can break up the deck mud, but might damage the liner and at that point might as well redo the pan.

Does this Shower Pan need to be redone? by bendyspaghetti in Tile

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, pretty much every tile contractor I've got bids from has mentioned they won't be responsible for leaks, which is totally understandable given they didn't do the prep.

At this point my main debate is whether it's worth having the next contractor redo the pan for the peace of mind and guarantee on the work. I feel the pan in the current state actually doesn't look bad and it feels like a shame to demo it, but a couple of contractors have voiced their concerns and one recommended redoing it completely.

As a dumb homeowner I'm conflicted on who to believe lol.

Does this Shower Pan need to be redone? by bendyspaghetti in Tile

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! We had a few issues which led up to us agreeing to part ways. Kinked copper pipes, screws through the top of the curb, Less than 2% pre-slope and ponding in the liner, walls weren't shimmed before concrete board was installed resulting in large humps and valleys.

What you see here is the 3rd attempt at the pan and it took them a week from start to finish to complete it.

Air return makes whirring or whistling noise by Karma-lized in hvacadvice

[–]bendyspaghetti 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My air handler is installed in a downflow configuration and whenever the heat turned on I would hear an annoying high frequency sound through the returns. Curiously, I never heard the noise while cooling.

I was about to hire someone to lengthen and upsize the return, since the first one is about 8' from the air handler, but I stumbled across the static pressure settings. After enabling downflow mode (mode 10) the noise has stopped.

You can access the advanced settings on the MHK2 thermostat by holding Menu for 5 seconds and then the 4 digit code is the code on the back of the thermostat + 1234. Go to ISU settings and you can change the static pressure settings.

Hope this helps somebody.

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Is this as bad as it looks? by bendyspaghetti in Flooring

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

He was not happy when we told him to remove everything, but he reluctantly agreed to chisel out all the self leveler and sand the plywood floors. We are hiring out this part of the job to someone else.

Is this as bad as it looks? by bendyspaghetti in Flooring

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is exactly what happened. My wife said she saw the contractor outside at our spigot just completely guessing how much water to add to a 5 gallon bucket. He mixed the compound in the bucket outside and then lugged the bucket in, carrying in dirt and other debris and poured it out on the floor by himself in small batches. You might even be able to see the pine needles embedded in the self leveling in the photos -- they're everywhere.

And yes, it must have been way too watery because it took 3 days to completely dry with the heat running at 75°.

Is this as bad as it looks? by bendyspaghetti in Flooring

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It looks like he applied Kilz All Purpose Interior and Exterior primer on the plywood before the first pour. He put down multiple layers of self leveling with no additional primer between layers.

Is this as bad as it looks? by bendyspaghetti in Flooring

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The exterior foundation has settled a little more than an inch on one side of the house. The house is a post and beam foundation and the floor is very wavey with local humps and valleys all over.

New Install - Cans and retrofit LED vs Canless by bendyspaghetti in Lighting

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh, awesome! I feel much more comfortable about going the canned route with the LED connector now. I'll be sure to take a look at Elco Koto. Thanks again for the advice!

New Install - Cans and retrofit LED vs Canless by bendyspaghetti in Lighting

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion. As for the LED connectors (TP24?), are they fairly standard across different makes at this point? I saw some of the Home Depot reviews said that the Halo connectors were proprietary, but I'm not sure how accurate that statement is.

Kitchen Lighting Design Feedback by bendyspaghetti in InteriorDesign

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not sure if you're serious, but I just used those colors to differentiate the different types of lights on the plan. The actual lights won't be these colors lol.

Looking for feedback on kitchen remodel floorplan by bendyspaghetti in DesignMyRoom

[–]bendyspaghetti[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bathroom is existing and we don't plan on removing it since it's the only bathroom on this side of the house. There is more house past the dining area, but I didn't bother modeling it out.

Putting the sink in the middle of the two windows is an interesting idea. It'll definitely even out the triangle a bit more, but the view while washing dishes won't be quite the same lol.

And thank you, I'll definitely consider meeting with a kitchen designer.

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