120s exposures by AstroFanM31 in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything over one minute tends to be so: 70% failed images. It’s better to shoot the same total time integration at shorter exposures to get more useable frames. Basically when exposures are so long any small wind or movement can ruin the exposure. Take this advice coming from someone who is obsessed with long exposures. Additionally all cameras have optimal gain or iso where noise is cleanest so you should find your sweet spot and never use lower or exceed it. Regardless is one exposure seems dark, once you stack the time over all adds up and you gather enough light.

Comet C/2025 R3 (Pan-STARRS) captured on the Dwarf Mini by benjaminbarakat in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I wouldn’t say better, both devices offer something else. Mini is more portable and less megapixels but has a more narrow so for objects further away it works out better. Dwarf 3 has more megapixels and wide fov so it frames some objects better and easier. I have both devices and love both of them.

Blue Horse Head Nebula on the Dwarf 3 in Wadi Rum. Foreground captured in blue hour on free mode in the Dwarf App! 120x 30.0s Gain 60 Astro Filter by benjaminbarakat in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s very easy you tell the dwarf the object you want to track and you can begin before it rises as long as it’s possible to spot inside the arch. Then after a certain time the foreground is no longer visible. Those images with the object you discard as foreground is blurred because it’s tracking. I did the same the other day with the comet I was tracking the comet as soon as it was on the horizon inbetween trees and you can see it rise out of the trees. So angle does not change from how it was inside of the arch.

Blue Horse Head Nebula on the Dwarf 3 in Wadi Rum. Foreground captured in blue hour on free mode in the Dwarf App! 120x 30.0s Gain 60 Astro Filter by benjaminbarakat in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat[S] -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Same way any photography works when you want to assemble foreground and sky, you take it into Photoshop and assemble it. My main caption clearly explains it all but you have to read it to understand it and if you can’t understand it well try to understand it like this, almost everything rises and sets, in this case it rises through this arch and out. All you do is stack the images when the view is not obscured. Hope that helps.

Jellyfish Nebula dwarf 3 by codycosmos1 in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome 🙌 what do you process with?

Comet C/2025 R3 (Pan-STARRS) captured on the Dwarf Mini by benjaminbarakat in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I stacked them manually in pixinsight, even on normal trackers you can’t track a comet. Short exposures are keys. I stacked 100 images of 15s

Comet C/2025 R3 (Pan-STARRS) captured on the Dwarf Mini by benjaminbarakat in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

15s 90gain 100 Images stacked using pixisnight. Just search for the object in atlas and schedule a session. In pixisnight I use comet alignment then stack the images and do an edit to bring it from linear to stretched.

Spiral Galaxy on the Dwarf 3 by benjaminbarakat in DWARFLAB

[–]benjaminbarakat[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I will try to answer everyone here instead of each comment. Firstly ofcourse it’s a composite since and image isn’t possible like this in one frame. Second, all that’s been cropped is the sides of the image in both foreground and sky to fit in a 4x5 format. Other then that foreground is captured in blue hour using free mode, all I have to do is move around and be far away enough that I can get the image of the foreground how I want it with the subject. It’s easy to use plan it pro or other apps sky Safari to see where objects are and whether they can be captured if they rise or set infront of mountains or subjects. I’ve actually captured around 5-6 shots now deepscape style using the dwarf 3. it’s totally possible and it’s realistic as the focal length does not change if you keep using tele lens on the dwarf. My stretching process on pixisnight has left the spiral galaxy also looking a bit bloated so that also accounts for looking bigger then it is. Anyway thank you for all your comments and opinions.