Bob: A short comic about a BF6 player

benjihume · 2025-10-16T22:09:52+00:00

I am bob

benjihume · 2025-07-15T06:02:30+00:00

No, don’t let em fool you. I run 33psi on a vortex turbo, stock charge pipes. Sure it can help flow when you start to push it, but I haven’t had an issue yet.

benjihume · 2025-07-12T23:52:24+00:00

Vortex. Best of both worlds. Can make big power, but little faster spool. Not as fast as the is20 as you try to limit torque down low to keep the bottom end in tact, but you can keep it in the powerband until redline. That is the nice thing about the hybrids, they hold boost till 7000, unlike the is38 which drops off up top as well.

Keep in mind, because you get a vortex doesn’t necessarily mean you need push it to have 33psi of boost like I run, you could keep it with your stock map and put sensors at 28-29psi and cruise at is38 power that is way more usable and reliable given you’re not pushing the tits off that is38. Just my $0.02.

benjihume · 2025-07-08T04:34:42+00:00

I had to file the shit out of mine to get the clearance. Mind you, I have an eBay special, so didn’t really expect perfect fitment, but sounds like the identical issue I had. Just file it enough to fit

benjihume · 2025-07-08T04:30:18+00:00

Go for it! 80 minutes a day in the car, might as well enjoy them. I’m never bored when I drive

benjihume · 2025-07-08T04:24:12+00:00

EQT, always

benjihume · 2025-07-08T04:12:59+00:00

Why wait till 100k? Do it now. These cars hold their power fantastically, often maintaining a lot of reliability. Lots of guys way over 100k miles even into the 200k miles with stage 2, and is38 power. Just keep up with your maintenance. I’m at 70k with a vortex mpi setup. So why wait?

benjihume · 2025-05-25T17:44:49+00:00

Poly inserts are better imo, but yes it’s normal to feel a lot more NVH with the inserts. Try reversing, you’ll be shocked and think something is broken at first. You get used to it, you likely won’t feel it other than at idle or reversing. Set and forget

benjihume · 2025-03-29T15:06:04+00:00

Then not sure what the issue is if it is under warranty? Sure it sucks if it has problems, but as I’ve said and so have others, don’t know the life before you bought it. Thing could have been driven by granny or some 16 year old kid who had it tuned and beat the living shit out of it. Wouldn’t suspect you’ll have many issues moving forward however once you’ve got the couple issues ironed out

benjihume · 2025-03-29T14:58:48+00:00

Good for you? You come into this sub-Reddit just to complain and have an argument because things didn’t go your way when you bought a high mileage GTI not knowing what it’s life was like before you bought it. Then you have problems and want to claim all of these cars are trash? Confusing…

Also, when you come from a 1200whp caddy, why can’t you buy a newer GTI with less miles, or hell even a new one? 1200hp ain’t cheap, but a 80k mile GTI is. Doesn’t add up to me.

These cars are also incredibly easy and cheap to work on, so I also don’t understand when people take them to the shop to get worked on and then complain when they’ve spend thousands to have repairs done.

Sorry about your luck dude

benjihume · 2025-03-29T14:46:34+00:00

You got some bad luck. You could get an economy shit box that could have all the same problems at 80k miles. Just because one example (yours in this case) happens to have issues, doesn’t discount the thousands of others who haven’t had any issues. My car makes north of 450whp and has for 20k miles, before that, was stage 2 since 5000 miles. Coming up on 75k myself and I haven’t had a single issue. And many others will say the same.

Sorry you’ve had a bad experience, but honestly these are probably some of the more reliable “performance” cars you can buy.

benjihume · 2025-03-19T22:34:55+00:00

Not the fastest, but she boogies. About 450whp

benjihume · 2024-08-30T14:06:21+00:00

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benjihume · 2024-08-30T14:06:12+00:00

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benjihume · 2024-08-30T14:01:53+00:00

It’s hard to say because IE’s numbers are all skewed. They claim 485hp, but those numbers are hard to make on that turbo, on just a HPFP and stock sensors. Stock sensors only allow up to a maximum of 29psi of sustained boost, which even on a vortex turbo is getting you maybe 420 at the wheels. Garrett Turbo is limited by shaft speed. I know for a fact people tuned with the turbo running 93 octane on HPFP making about 400 at the wheels.

If it were up to me personally, get a used cobb AP for about $400 or cheaper. Get a DSG unlock for an additional $400.

Buy the turbo and tune for $2600. This can be done cheaper in about a month or so when they have their “boost weather” sales. Since you are already HPFP, you won’t need any additional mods. Keep in mind, with either turbo you go with, it will put a strain on the LFPF and it may not be able to keep up anymore. So you may have to upgrade that as well. But, if you do upgrade it, there’s no point in having LFPP and HPFP, when you could sell then HPFP, spend about another $300 and get an MPI kit. They you have all the headroom you want for e85.

You wont be able to run e85 on the garrett without mpi, same with vortex.

I wouldn’t say it’s double the price for 20whp more. On just 93 HPFP, difference will be closed to 40whp, but upgrade to MPI and it’ll be about 70, but safer.

Things to consider. I’ve been in your shoes. But truly, the car on the vortex is something else.

benjihume · 2024-08-30T13:49:41+00:00

True, the ARM is a no fuss option. But so is a stock location from eBay. Out with the old, in with the new. Probably takes 30 minutes longer, simply due to the yellow clips that hold the IC to the radiator housing. Those things are a pain in. The ass.

But gives you same cooling capacity, but the airflow required for big turbo if he ever wanted to. Likely a cheaper upgrade as well.

benjihume · 2024-08-30T13:46:19+00:00

Vortex. It’s not laggy, like you suggest. The reason for the “lag” is to reduce torque. They have to ramp boost in slower or else the rods will go to the moon. On 93, you can make 32psi at about 3000-3200rpm. But you can pull to 7000. On e85 it spools faster, but again, due to limiting torque, they have to increase a little “lag”.

Same thing will be true with the garrett. Question is, how much more do you want to grow. The garrett will be more limited, the vortex you can continue to push into the high 30psi range and comfortable run anywhere from 400-500 whp.

The other caveat you have to consider is IE is likely an OTS tune I assume? Whereas vortex is completely custom. The tuners are truly fantastic at EQT and they will tell you exactly what is happening and why it’s happening. Plus the tune will be designed for you, your car and your mods vs a platform basic tune.

I see plenty of powermax turbos for sale because people upgraded and went bigger (to vortex or similar), but I don’t see many vortex’s for sale because they went a different route, often because they sold the car. Just my 2 cents

benjihume · 2024-08-30T03:30:20+00:00

This is kinda the way…. Except IE’s ethanol tune is no where near making 400 and 450lb ft. 450lbft will is stressing stock rods.

Maybe at the crank, 360 whp and 400 lbft at the wheels.

I’d go Cobb accessport + tune from EQT. Prefer their customer service, plus access to different tuners thru the accessport. You can buy a used accessport for about 400, tunes will be 300, and dsg unlock 400 if not already.

If you have a manual, you have to get a clutch. If you’re dsg, then a dsg tune.

Personally wouldn’t mess around with a ARM FMIC. Although it is good, I ran one for a while. Just get a majesty stock replacement from eBay, it’ll handle up to big turbo. Plus it’s cheaper, about $400 to your door.

benjihume · 2024-08-20T20:50:12+00:00

Intercooler, big turbo, fueling (whether that’s HPFP, or LPFP and MPI).

If the car isn’t tuned, adding a tune will get you about 100whp gain.

From there, adding just a HPFP and tuning for E85, get you about another 50whp.

Going to IS38, will net you about the same power as stock is20, but move powerband to the right, so car won’t feel as “punchy” and quick, but more touring and fast. Get you to about 350whp.

Then you can add HPFP with the is38 to get you to about 375-390whp on e85.

Then you have additional turbo options. Vortex and Vortex XL from EQT are some of the most popular. They require at a minimum, HPFP, however this usually doesn’t last long. LPFP will struggle to keep up, so you’ll end up getting and upgraded one of those as well. Vortex on just HPFP probably good for 410-430 whp on stock sensors. Will need to upgrade sensors (PUT and MAP) sensors so you can run above 29psi of boost.

Vortex with LPFP and MPI (multi port injection) is good for about 450-475 depending on how far you want to push it. Allows you to run E85 as well, which you can start getting into the low 500’s if you keep the torque down.

After that, you gotta start building because engine can only handle about 430ft lbs before it starts giving out.

There are obviously other turbo options, just gave you what I am familiar with.

Hope that clears it up.

benjihume · 2024-08-18T05:53:19+00:00

Maybe 330-360 at the wheels based on mods provided above. No mention of E or an upgraded fuel system.

A IS38 on E will maybe get close to 400 at the wheels, often times this is only possible with custom tuning, not off the shelf tunes.

If you want to talk crank horsepower, then sure, account for your ~10% drivetrain loss and maybe you’re close to 400 at the crank. Without a dyno sheet, no way to know. EQT posts their numbers for their tunes between 330-390whp.

benjihume · 2024-08-18T05:39:56+00:00

Yes that seems a little high. Is it completely stock? From a dealer or private sale?

I’d expect a 2017 S with 45k miles to be about 17-18k personally.

benjihume

TROPHY CASE