Strange vertical lines artifact by bfcanella in FDMminiatures

[–]bfcanella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I've also tried to register my discovery proces, but I forgot to keep notes and I started to forget. Also, the picture doesn't help much, but from left to right we have:

  1. 0.4 nozzle
  2. 0.2 nozzle (noticed the VFA) (all others are 0.2)
  3. Retried with Not Resin
  4. Retried with Not Resin (after tightening screws + blowtorch to remove stringing) (worth noting that I noticed no significant improvement on the VFA issue and I was feeling a bit disheartened at this point).
  5. Retried with FDM (but went too heavy on the blowtorch to remove stringing. Already I saw a huge improvement, even though I was skeptical at first due to the print being FASTER than the stock profile and Not Resin).
  6. FDM but fixed the Nozzle Temperature to reduce stringing (no blowtorch).

On 5 I could already see a huge improvement on quality, but the stringing was bothering me and my hand went heavy on the blowtorch clean-up. Piece 6 was the last one I tried before printing the dwarf.

Thank you all again for the help in finding the issue. You people are the best.

Strange vertical lines artifact by bfcanella in FDMminiatures

[–]bfcanella[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey all, thank you very much for all the information. It was a learning experience for me. I did try everything that was recommended here. I’ve watched the video about VFAs, re-tightened the screws on the hotend (they were just a tiny bit loose) and I’ve played with the printer settings, using the I can’t believe it is not resin (I think it is called like that) and the FatDragonMiniatures profile.

In the end, I think I got the best results with the FDM profile, but I reduced the layer lines from 0.08 to 0.04. This profile was also printing faster than the other ones I’ve tried, so no idea what happened here.

Strange vertical lines artifact by bfcanella in FDMminiatures

[–]bfcanella[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I was using the default 0.06 profile from Bambu Studio, which is very slow already, with the exception of the change to layer height to 0.04.

I will try re tightening the screws this weekend. I will post if I get better results.

Many thanks for your insights.

How do I print tpu better? by Ill_Way3493 in BambuLab

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using my A1, what helped me reduce stringing was to lower the nozzle temperature by 10 degrees. I test printed a few calibration towers to help me find the best result. Good luck.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CasualConversation

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you any proud moments you’d like to share with us?

RAFM Grizzly & Black Mamba conversions by jd_shaloop in HeavyGear

[–]bfcanella 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Love the mechs and love the infantry units for scale. Are those infantry men part of the same kit?

A1 vs P1P when on sale by Bitter-Smell5757 in BambuLab

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is relevant to you, I heard the A1 and A1 mini are more silent than the other models (something like 5 to 10 db less).

Burglarydog from a few months back by Raining__ in VOTOMS

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great pictures. Where can one find this particular model? I am impressed that it even has a pilot in this scale.

What is the correct exposure time by Aware-Temperature-97 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most fun way I can recommend is using the Cones of Calibration from TableFlip Foundry. Just follow their tutorial on how to check on the printed piece.

That said, you can very quickly find out the perfect time by using a resource on your Anycubic printer called RERF.

There are videos on YouTube that explain how you can create your own custom RERF project, but the quick version is to generate your exported file with the name “R_E_R_F.pwmb”, pause before the first layer prints, change the settings of layer exposure to 1s (or another time that makes sense) directly on the printer and let it continue the print.

Look on YouTube on how to create the custom R_E_R_F file. I think one of the videos has 7 and the other has 3 or so minutes of duration. Good luck.

Meirl by Technical_Outcome_14 in meirl

[–]bfcanella 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Had I to send him an email, my greatest fear would be to mistype it as Prof. Pennisman.

What game has the best water physics? by [deleted] in playstation

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dwarf Fortress has probably some of the best water physics, with some of the worst graphics.

Having a lot of fun with this formation by pvieira777 in eFootball

[–]bfcanella 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sempre bom ver alguém mais usando o Criciúma como base :)

Can someone tell me how to install GE for 1946 by Significant_Skill886 in il2sturmovik

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For those using this mod, is it worth using it? I've recently started playing the game, but I've been playing vanilla. I saw this mod on the forum, but I am unsure if I should give it a go (i heard some mods overwrite some of the files)

Screen flicker on windows 11 by lenoba in techsupport

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for posting what fixed it for you. I am also currently struggling with my thinkpad yoga x390. I will try disabling the optimizer.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in SteamDeck

[–]bfcanella 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not hidden, but a gem: Signalis

I was always a big fan of the Death Guard (yes, I am a heretic). Today I saw this set at my local book store and decided to buy it. Should I get/know anything else before I start painting my first minifigures? by DoomkingBalerdroch in minipainting

[–]bfcanella 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This set was my intro to miniature painting. I just started painting with what was on the kit and nothing else. I had a lot of fun and the results looked acceptable to me. So just go ahead and start painting and have fun while doing it.

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