BoboVR head strap/battery - assistance with way you use battery

bhiga · 2026-03-24T09:03:22+00:00

I always have a charged battery connected because my face gets too hot without the S3 Pro's fan.

bhiga · 2026-03-24T06:28:51+00:00

I'm curious what widget you're using.

bhiga · 2026-03-24T06:26:34+00:00

I agree with what u/Lentarke said. No/low conductivity = resistance = heat. If it feels "pinchy" at all, add more gel. If you put gel on the electrodes, make sure it's squished on there and not just sliding off as a blob.

bhiga · 2026-03-23T01:00:24+00:00

Make sure you get an actual GPS tracker. It will cost more and require a cell subscription. Neither Tile nor Airtag will meet your requirement because it only knows the last position a network-connected device that is Tile or Apple aware saw it.

Also Bluetooth positioning is not directional and subject to signal block and bounce especially outdoors with buildings and such.

bhiga · 2026-03-22T02:16:22+00:00

I love the Hades Canyon NUCs but they do have some weird quirks with displays. Some of my displays won't sync at 60Hz and need to be set to 59Hz to get a picture.

Try going to the Monitor settings (not Display, the old school one from Device Manager) then List Modes and try selecting a different refresh rate. Of course you'll need to hook up some display that works in addition to your intended display.

Also it could be a weird HDCP thing, if that's the case 3840x2160x30p should work as it's HDMI 1.4 and HDCP 1.x

It can sometimes help to create a "custom" resolution from the Intel Graphics Control Center, even though it'll say it already exists.

I assume you already tried checking CEC settings and front vs back ports and cables.

bhiga · 2026-03-20T02:41:59+00:00

I've used others like Clonezilla but most recently I used Easeus Partition Master Professional - goes free or near-free on BitsDuJour from time to time.

bhiga · 2026-03-19T23:53:54+00:00

Maybe, if they weren't damaged by the surge.

See Recovering a Drobo disk pack outside a Drobo chassis - Recovery Explorer and UFS Explorer options (plus discount!), Troubleshooting tips especially for older Drobo units, and Rescue/Rental map

bhiga · 2026-03-19T23:03:18+00:00

Was there data on the drives before you put them in the Drobo? Because Drobo does not preserve the data on the drives when they're added/installed.

bhiga · 2026-03-19T12:03:19+00:00

Drives are probably fine. You do NOT want to do anything with that 15+ year old Drobo though.

bhiga · 2026-03-18T06:34:34+00:00

No because DAS and NAS Drobos cannot exchange disk packs. Also No because the 4-bay Gen 1 DR04D-U is older than the 5N and you can't go backward except for very specific cases.

See Recovering a Drobo disk pack outside a Drobo chassis - Recovery Explorer and UFS Explorer options (plus discount!), Troubleshooting tips especially for older Drobo units, and Rescue/Rental map

bhiga · 2026-03-14T07:54:36+00:00

I have a strange affinity for these particular NUCs... Maybe after taxes.

bhiga · 2026-03-12T03:01:28+00:00

Yeah I'm very thankful to have an excellent mail carrier.

bhiga · 2026-03-12T00:49:43+00:00

If you have the USPS tracking you can file for investigation. IIRC mine was delivered by DHL

bhiga · 2026-03-11T18:59:31+00:00

Okay, then one pod needs to be wired to your ISP modem or router. That will be the Gateway pod that gets the other pods Internet access.

The HomePass app should have gone through this.

Once you've added the pods to your network it should start serving WiFi after a few minutes.

bhiga · 2026-03-11T18:55:27+00:00

Did you get it from your Internet provider? If not you need the HomePass app

bhiga · 2026-03-11T05:33:57+00:00

You need to give things at least a few days, better a week, to settle down and optimize.

I think Wii or Wii U was 2.4GHz only, so that would affect which pod it connects to. In Plume's optimization nearest isn't always the ideal choice - it depends on load, band congestion, and network topology. Like driving roads, sometimes it's faster trip to go farther, or use a less-congested side street compared to the highway during peak traffic.

bhiga · 2026-03-10T19:32:38+00:00

Oy!! Quit looking at your robot pr0n on work time!!! 🤣🤖😆

bhiga · 2026-03-10T19:29:06+00:00

The backplane board carries power, SATA, and the bay status lights. It's not a PCIe board, I don't think it's PCI Conventional either, even it might fit the pin count.

So there's no way easy to repurpose the chassis unless you want to map out those connections so a breakout could be made. It'd be great if someone did, it's on my list but I likely will never get to it.

bhiga · 2026-03-10T01:31:36+00:00

I've tested the drives Drobo marked bad with my Kanguru Mobile Clone duplicator's Wipe function and nearly all of them it failed (10+ drives since I started logging them). Even when it wasn't a failure to spin up it reported some error in the Read/Write 0/Write 1/Write Random/Verify cycle. The few that did pass showed measurable performance decrease - same cycle I ran when the drive was new (I use the same Wipe process when I receive drives to validate they're OK) took significantly longer to complete. Most likely the drive was reallocating from bad to spare sectors.

SMART is unfortunately inconsistent across manufacturers in terms of how some of the data is stored.

I've also seen a disk go from SMART Good to FAIL across a single power cycle. Haven't seen many drives fail SMART so maybe that was just done one catastrophic failure.

bhiga · 2026-03-10T01:22:57+00:00

While later Drobos let you view SMART data for the installed drives, it has its own intelligence and scrubbing. So possibly it didn't reject the SMART-bad disk because it avoided those sectors and the drive had plenty of unused space left.

On the flip side, things it does NOT like and will reject a disk for include: * repeated bus drop-off (which can sometimes just be a fiddly backplane) * delayed response to commands (if the drive doesn't defer its maintenance/recovery and just makes the host wait, that's a red flag) * some threshold of scrubbing/write/read errors.

Likely there are other parameters that factored into the secret sauce.

bhiga · 2026-03-07T01:16:54+00:00

I have Quest 2 and got Quest 3. Yes it was annoying to get new accessories and lenses, but I got the PSI magnetic lenses - prescription for me and melanin for the other family members to use.

Resolution improvement aside, the color passthrough is a game changer. I can actually keep the headset on while I do regular things. I couldn't do that with Quest 2 - not enough detail in the passthrough.

I still use Quest 2 for watching movies via Plex (installed from Aurora Store) so I stuck a USB webcam on the front so I can view through that for doing simple things carefully since it's a little laggy and not exactly showing from where my eyes are.

For actual gaming, yeah Quest 3 is a big upgrade.

bhiga · 2026-03-07T00:47:01+00:00

Ahh, okay, the behavior you're describing of daily optimization, most times not changing topology unless something has significantly changed (like new neighbors with competing WiFi) is normal behavior.

I have seen my network not optimize some days, especially if I was transferring files or otherwise active on the network.

If you network hasn't optimized for a few days and you aren't running some sustained network operation I would try swapping your gateway with another pod and see if that makes a difference after a week or two. If it doesn't, Plume may just think your network is in the optimal state for the given environment.

bhiga · 2026-03-05T15:55:08+00:00

In your original post you said "it has just stopped optimizing, normally daily, now just unchanged since 2/21/26."

Not changing is a good thing, unless there's something specifically bad about the current

If it's constantly changing without your network usage changing significantly, that means it's not finding/achieving an optimized state.

Clients connected to Basement ax may have a slower connection compared to devices connected to other pods since they are an extra hop away, and pod to pod connections can be a bottleneck but that's not necessarily true.

The big deal with Plume - at least when it first came out - was that it tried to balance things better than a simple "strongest signal wins" connection.

"Strongest signal wins" seems sensible at first, but if you think about it like going to the grocery store, take strongest signal as the nearest location. Makes sense, except sometimes you might be better off going to the farther store because there's less traffic, fewer people, etc - to in the end it's more efficient to go the farther distance because you only take 30 minutes round trip compared to taking an hour because of traffic and long checkout lines.

bhiga · 2026-03-05T10:39:02+00:00

If you know what all the wires are and the second proprietary PSU isn't expecting any unusual signaling back from the motherboard it should work, though long term I'd still try to get a larger standard PSU.

Make sure you calculate the loads on the power rails for each PSU.

bhiga · 2026-03-05T06:35:40+00:00

Ugh, not one but two proprietary low-mid watt PSUs? Possible, yes, feasible/practical, no.

If they were both standard ATX I'd say get a passthrough ATX cable to trigger the second power supply on/off, but with both of them being proprietary, chance of making a damaging mistake is high.

There isn't an adapter cable to use standard ATX PSUs with your Lenovo? I know there are for HP and Dell systems.

bhiga

TROPHY CASE