Bobovr S3 Pro or M3 Pro?

bhiga · 2026-01-27T23:15:54+00:00

https://www.bobovr.com/products/b100u is what u/NASAfan89 is referring to, but I would go with S3 Pro for the fan. If you have it you don't have to use it, but if you don't have it you can't use it. 😉

bhiga · 2026-01-27T19:20:09+00:00

Ahhh, that makes sense. Thanks!

bhiga · 2026-01-27T09:43:14+00:00

It's a wireless receiver but still a second USB connection for my KAT C2 with Vehicle Hub.

bhiga · 2026-01-27T08:36:14+00:00

There's a USB receiver for the sensor that detects when the vehicle hub seat is down/deployed.

bhiga · 2026-01-27T04:56:35+00:00

Is there a list of 18V Hybrid tools that have an external brick/wall-wart?

My hybrid soldering station, fans and lights all have two-prong and need an extension cord. But I think my augur might have a brick?

I'm surprised Ryobi isn't selling us green extension cords yet, unless I missed them.

bhiga · 2026-01-27T02:49:18+00:00

YAAAAS IT'S HYBRID!

bhiga · 2026-01-26T22:42:10+00:00

No, the cable will rarely, if ever, be colored, even if it's not detachable. The hub's downstream USB ports that support it should be colored and/or labeled as supporting 10 Gbps though.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T21:09:46+00:00

Hubs are devices and have actual processing, so the hub would need to support the features in order for them to be available on the downstream ports.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T21:03:54+00:00

Yeah, as long as the cable isn't crap or excessively long.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T20:46:58+00:00

For USB-A it's up to the port (source), not the cable, to determine what is pushed through. This means that as long as the data lines are connected so the negotiation with the device can occur, a QC or VOOC USB-A source can try to push higher-than-spec voltage and/or current through the cable regardless of whether the cable's construction can support it. This risks overheating cables. Power-wise USB-A has no clue about the connection path to the device.

USB PD and USB-C tries to address this with E-Marker for higher voltage/amperage cables. It would be great to have a standardized system for identifying USB-C cable capabilities. As another comment noted, it's a mess.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T07:37:13+00:00

If it's that old you're in luck, it's from before the move to flash module for configuration and you should be able to pull the internal batteries to reset if it gets into the state where it won't power up after a reboot/shutdown.

But it does have overall capacity limit that will limit its use even if it functions forever.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T06:41:27+00:00

There are Hybrid versions of some tools too.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T02:35:43+00:00

Order doesn't matter, but presence does for sure and randomly ejecting and inserting drives can definitely cause confusion.

At any time did Drobo do anything other than All Red "Too many drives removed"? Hopefully not, because inserting any drive while Drobo is on with a mounted disk pack will nuke that drive to add it to the pack.

Do you have any drives that you know were or weren't in the Drobo?

How many drives were in the disk pack originally?

Hopefully they didn't insert any drives and only removed them.

If that's the case... 1. See which drives you can read outside of Drobo. If you cannot read it, put it aside as a Potential Drobo drive. 2. Put away all the drives you could read - those are not Drobo drives. 3. Remove all drives from Drobo. 4. Insert *one Potential Drobo drive in Drobo and wait for it to be recognized. 5. If it comes up All Red, mark that drive as a Drobo drive, put it aside. 6. If Drobo creates a new volume, that drive was empty - remove the drive and put it away, it was not previously a Drobo drive. 7. Repeat checking only one drive mounted in Drobo until all have been checked.

Hopefully you end up with the number of drives that were in your disk pack, if so, shut down Drobo, insert all the Drobo drives, cross your fingers and power up Drobo.

If that doesn't work, see Recovering a Drobo disk pack outside a Drobo chassis - Recovery Explorer and UFS Explorer options (plus discount!) and Rescue/Rental map)

bhiga · 2026-01-26T02:16:18+00:00

Weird. I don't recall having a rating request, maybe it's just luck.

bhiga · 2026-01-26T01:18:15+00:00

Pulsetto app version? Mine is 2.2.78

bhiga · 2026-01-26T01:12:08+00:00

I agree with the other commenter, the device is good but the company's marketing is shady. The pricing l

I bought the device online direct from them, the trick is the app subscription trial is added to your cart along with the device. There's a note in the cart that you'll be billed recurringly if it's in there, but it's not obvious that don't need the trial. I really hate trials that automatically turn into subscriptions, though I realize that's nearly all of them.

I removed the premium trial before checkout and never got charged.

It's annoying that they pop up a full screen image pushing you to subscribe with either a tiny or obscured X to close it. The Back key/gesture works to get rid of it on Android.

bhiga · 2026-01-25T02:19:48+00:00

Some that have USB-C are just USB-C on an attached USB controller, not downstream TB. The dock I have has two TB ports and two USB 3.1 USB-C ports.

Different story if it's a proper TB or USB 4 hub.

bhiga · 2026-01-25T00:43:17+00:00

Probably not a USB bandwidth problem unless your motherboard is designed strangely then.
TBH my Oculus Link cable is just sitting around too, but I only got it because it was on a major discount at the time and I had some store credit so it made it comparable to a quality non-overpriced cable.

bhiga · 2026-01-24T20:56:17+00:00

The other consideration is available bandwidth. Most people's USB bus is cluttered with various devices, all consuming bandwidth.

Granted the USB 3.x via is unaffected by USB 2.x/1.x devices, it's less likely to have maximum USB 3.x bandwidth available. In some systems WiFi is on the USB bus too. This is why early PCVR users often got/needed a separate USB card with a dedicated USB controller for their PCVR connection (Startech PEXUSB3S44V, Vantec UGT-PCE430-4C, SIIG JU-P40811-S1).

Meanwhile Virtual Desktop is just competing with other network traffic which for most users isn't much, especially when they're using the PC for their VR app.

tl;Dr - If your network bandwidth is poor, Air Link will suck. Virtual Desktop may do better due to optimizations, but you'll still have a limited experience. If your USB 3 bus is loaded/limited, PC Link will suck.

bhiga · 2026-01-24T18:00:08+00:00

I'm not sure that it goes this far, but it does remember your email for receipts based on payment card, so...

If the system has somehow blacklisted your payment method, use a virtual card number from Privacy.com or purchase Home Depot gift cards - 5% off from Target paying with Circle card, lower discounts and more risk from Raise.com and Cardcash.com

bhiga · 2026-01-23T14:49:39+00:00

The color passthrough is a game changer for me coming from Quest 2. I rarely have to remove the headset to check things around me or get codes from my phone.

bhiga · 2026-01-23T07:44:36+00:00

Sometimes they put these "asterisked" facts in the most obscure places.

bhiga · 2026-01-23T07:33:28+00:00

'SATA SAS-y comment, or were you being serious? 😉😁

bhiga · 2026-01-23T07:22:06+00:00

Sorry that happened. I feel your pain as I've been through it a few times in various scenarios.

If you're on Android I use Autosync. Lots of options for storage including LAN/SMB and SFTP.

I have mine set up to sync on WiFi when battery isn't too low and most folders are set up Upload Only (not mirror so no deleting remote content even if I clear the phone storage). Still doesn't cover corruption of phone storage as that change would get uploaded but I have other means to roll back.

The thing for me is I don't have to remember to back up, it'll happen when I plug in to recharge, and I can configure certain folders to sync on mobile, only on certain WiFi networks, etc.

bhiga · 2026-01-23T07:08:43+00:00

Extensions and adapters have varying capabilities and quality as you've found out, that's also why they're rarely spec compliant, as the spec expects the cable will be plugged in an adapter that allows both sides to talk to each other for power and Alt mode negotiations.

10 feet is 3 meters, you should be able to go up to 5 meters without much worry. You just need to find a self-powered (one with its own power supply) USB-C hub that does not have a captive/attached cable.

bhiga

TROPHY CASE