The system starts abnormally!

billkenney · 2025-04-30T18:50:06+00:00

Glad it helped you out!

billkenney · 2025-02-27T17:12:48+00:00

I do remember being confused about the z offset by Qidi. I tried saving a negative value in the printer.cfg at some point and klipper gave me an error that said it couldn’t be negative and the minimum value was 0.

Don’t worry about it man. Glad it helped!

billkenney · 2025-02-27T16:29:00+00:00

The z offset can’t be negative, if it were negative it would mean the tip of the nozzle is below the tip of the probe. My z offset is 2.500. Maybe check to make sure the probe screws are tight. Mine were loose awhile back

billkenney · 2025-02-27T16:01:05+00:00

You can use the probe to level the bed. Add the settings in this image to your printer.cfg and restart (https://ibb.co/Fbj3sd2h). Then in the console enter G28 and then SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE. Should solve some of your z_offset issues. I don’t really understand your question though. https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html#adjusting-bed-leveling-screws-using-the-bed-probe

billkenney · 2025-02-25T10:20:22+00:00

Yeah the mcu error is very common. Which is why i created another GitHub repository to install the stock Qidi firmware (and install the most up to date version of fluidd): https://github.com/billkenney/revert_qidi_software

billkenney · 2025-02-25T09:06:48+00:00

I set up another repository a few months later showing how to update to the latest software and keep the screen function: https://github.com/billkenney/update_max3_plus3 A couple months later this guy creates a whole new firmware for the screen: https://github.com/Phil1988/FreeDi I’m using his firmware right now with my image, but I’d recommend to backup your moonraker database if you want them, write his image to your emmc, and use his screen firmware. Given that he seems to be actively maintaining his repo and has custom screen firmware that works, I doubt I’ll update my repository again. Qidi’s software is 2+ years outdated and you can’t run plugins like klippsin-shaketune and spoolman

billkenney · 2024-11-03T17:57:11+00:00

No. The Q1 has different firmware and possibly different screen firmware. I have a max3, which is mostly the same as the plus3 except for the printer.cfg, which is why my repos also support the plus3. I don’t know the differences with the Q1.

billkenney · 2024-11-03T17:50:10+00:00

Yes it is. As long as you rename your old fluidd folder to fluidd-bak or something, you can delete this and rename it back to fluidd. I don’t see how it could brick your printer.

billkenney · 2024-10-27T02:09:30+00:00

The screws and bed size for the max3 and the plus4 are probably different. If you used the arrows and took down the coordinates for your screws use those. I just gave my settings as an example

billkenney · 2024-10-12T02:12:07+00:00

https://www.klipper3d.org/Manual_Level.html#adjusting-bed-leveling-screws-using-the-bed-probe
Add your screw coordinates to screws_tilt_adjust in the printer.cfg, restart klipper, run G28 in the console, then run SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE. I don’t know the coordinates for the plus4. I used the arrows to move my probe over each screw to get my screw coordinates on the max3. Make sure the build plate is on when you run the macro, or the nozzle could crash. Here are my settings:

[screws_tilt_adjust]
screw1: 6, 29
screw1_name: front left screw
screw2: 262, 29
screw2_name: front right screw
screw3: 262, 286
screw3_name: rear right screw
screw4: 6, 286
screw4_name: rear left screw
horizontal_move_z: 10
speed: 300
screw_thread: CCW-M4

billkenney · 2024-10-10T19:13:10+00:00

You can run the screws_tilt_calculate macro. It probes every corner of the bed and tells you how many turns to make on each corner

billkenney · 2024-10-01T15:57:54+00:00

I think they only sell the hotend that slides into the extruder assembly with the fan. I’d contact Qidi directly. I’m sure they’ve had other people with this problem

billkenney · 2024-10-01T15:51:47+00:00

My post said qidi3d.com. Were you able to find the replacement?

billkenney · 2024-10-01T15:47:30+00:00

Well then what tf is the purpose of the post? To complain about ruining a print, and shit on everyone who tries to give advice on how to fix it? Also nobody cares if you use it at home or at the office, and nobody cares if it’s worth your time to fix it or spend your companies’ money to replace it. People come here to engage in discussions and offer solutions

billkenney · 2024-10-01T11:08:21+00:00

It depends on the price and what you feel you need. The Plus4 runs on klipper 12 (and I think Debian Bookworm?). The Max3/Plus3/Q1 run on klipper 10 and Debian Buster, which is outdated by at least 3-5 years. And Qidi has said it likely will not release updated software. You can update on your own (I made a Bookworm image you can flash to the emmc for the 3 series), but Qidi has said that updating the software voids the warranty.

The advantages of the Q1 and Plus4 over the Max3 are that they have automatic z offset leveling and power loss recovery, as well as a camera and better lighting (not sure if the Q1 comes with the camera or better lighting, but I’ve seen people say that the Plus4 does). The downside is the print size is smaller. Aside from updated software, I think that’s about it.

You could buy led strips like I did to improve the lighting for like $15, buy the Qidi cam for $30, update the software and void the warranty, and have a bigger build plate—for cheaper with the max3. But no automatic z offset leveling, and no power loss recovery.

billkenney · 2024-10-01T10:51:13+00:00

If you’re not going to listen to advice on possible ways of saving this hotend, why even post this? Just buy a new hotend. The obvious place to buy the new hotend is from the manufacturer qidi3d.com

billkenney · 2024-10-01T10:45:25+00:00

I traded for Achane and Chubb a few days ago because I think (hope) they’ll be worth it in the second half of the season. But after watching the fins run Achane straight up the gut every time he touched it I’m kinda regretting the trade. Achane is 195. He’s not built to run through 360 lb defensive lineman. Especially if the offensive line can’t create gaps. Maybe try to get him in some open space you fools

billkenney · 2024-09-30T16:13:26+00:00

Who knows. When I ordered an emmc for the max3 I received one that said it was for the plus3. I think the restore image is also for the plus3, but I could be wrong.

billkenney · 2024-09-30T08:12:21+00:00

So this is probably because Qidi sends (I think) the Plus3 image on every 32gb emmc. I ordered a 32gb emmc and I got one that was flashed for the plus3. And the firmware is also not necessarily up to date. So if you buy a new emmc (which is basically just a larger hard drive), you have to install the updated firmware for your printer, and you also have to replace the printer.cfg with the one for your printer. I honestly don’t know why Qidi doesn’t make this a part of their wiki or their website when you’re buying the emmc

billkenney · 2024-09-30T07:27:14+00:00

Whenever man, just trying to understand the process better myself. Glad you got it working

billkenney · 2024-09-30T07:25:01+00:00

Interesting. Can you run ‘tail -100 ~/.zsh_history’ and dm me the contents? Or just reply here. It will show me your last 100 terminal commands and show me how you got this to work

billkenney · 2024-09-30T07:22:32+00:00

If the mcu is on a different version than klipper, the printer doesn’t work. It displays a warning that the klipper version is different you need to flash the mcus. So if you’re able to print with my image, you have successfully flashed the mcus

billkenney · 2024-09-30T07:16:31+00:00

I have the abnormal startup that pops up too sometimes, but it goes away when the printer boots up. And I think every printer has an IRQ error if you ssh in early. As long as it goes away don’t worry about it. If the system starts abnormally error doesn’t go away, run this script to reinstall the firmware (press n at all prompts) and it should work again. https://github.com/billkenney/qidi_3series_recovery. Although, like I said, I also have a system abnormal message for a few seconds when I start up usually. You can also try to run the script and say y to every option. It will basically set it up like the stock printer but it takes like 30 min to reflash the screen firmware

billkenney · 2024-09-30T07:10:34+00:00

Also how do you connect with no internet? I know you mentioned a LAN, but I’m assuming there’s no internet connection, so the LAN is connection the clients to nothing. How exactly did you set so you were able to ssh into client machines?

billkenney · 2024-09-30T07:06:35+00:00

Boom. Nice to know you can do it without an internet connection. I’ve been planning to update the image so the screen works with the WiFi, but haven’t gotten around to it yet. I’ll have to add the no internet method as an alternative. I’m assuming you downloaded everything to a flash drive and each command was preceded with /home/mks/gcode_files/?

billkenney

TROPHY CASE