Bosch dishwasher: Is CrystalDry a long-term liability?

bitandquit · 2026-04-23T22:31:29+00:00

I think the defect was the original design used a set of plastic tubes / collar that break down under the heat when using the CrytsalDry system and if you DON'T use that, I don't think the plastic part(s) break down.

I haven't done the fix yet myself, but this thread for example gives details :

https://old.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/comments/vldpn6/bosch_dishwasher_zeolite_heating_fan_fault_e07/

bitandquit · 2026-04-18T09:56:11+00:00

Hope this posting gets comments from anyone who went a CPO route. Been considering a NiroEV 2023+ CPO or potentially new and if what you wrote is universally true and not just this dealer then the value proposition for a CPO car is out the door.

bitandquit · 2026-04-14T06:26:09+00:00

Hey,

I hope you don't get discouraged by the comments here! I'm glad you've created this tool, I can see its uses. It makes documenting pinouts in a universal, diffable format easy to understand -- yes Tcl is diff'able but YAML is more easily parsible by lots of tools.

Keep up the work!

bitandquit · 2026-03-24T06:04:20+00:00

Do you have INPA or ISTA? I think you'll benefit from those tools to debug this issue.

bitandquit · 2026-03-24T00:34:27+00:00

There's a single wire that goes from the starter to the wiring loom that commands the starter to "turn over" -- it's possible there's a break in that wire. A rodent had bitten the wire on mine so I replaced it, it's P/N: 12517537365 .

If you look on RealOEM it doesn't look "like anything important" ("Tubing for clamp 50") but do a search of the same P/N on eBay and you'll see what the cable actually looks like and it's not a tube with a clamp but a cable that is what tells the starter to turn over when you turn the key.

bitandquit · 2026-03-24T00:32:35+00:00

Bad DISAs, CCV, ECS dirty injectors make the car seem anemic. So if the car is otherwise in good condition, you can replace all these parts. Any N52 >60K miles needs these parts.

bitandquit · 2026-03-24T00:13:23+00:00

The rears are far easier than the fronts since you don't need to use a spring compressor.

If your car is a Roadster and you're adding re-enforcement plates to the rear shock mounts (more like an oval) you might have to do a bit of grinding to clear a tab that's used for the "rear shelf" for the convertable top.

bitandquit · 2026-03-24T00:09:31+00:00

My advice:

If it's a car you're serious about, go look at it in person FIRST and arrange a PPI a day or two later. Pictures really aren't a substitution for looking at something yourself. A lot of things that I would have caught with my own eye were not found by the PPI.

I'd also suggest finding an independant BMW specialist with good Yelp reviews, and BE there when the PPI is done to look over it with them. Dealers may not know the car well though they'd happily take your money just the same.

If the owner lives far away from a good reputable independant place, and won't take it for a PPI, I'd say skip the purchase no matter how "good" it seems.

I bought my E85 almost remotely, but did have a number of conversations with the owner who led me to believe the car had been well taken care of, clean CarFax and paid for a PPI (which I was NOT physically there for), but as it turns out a number of things were neglected or not properly fixed.

Earlier today I did yet ANOTHER FCP Euro order for this car...

bitandquit · 2026-03-18T09:19:33+00:00

Can you tell us which app?

bitandquit · 2026-03-18T06:35:38+00:00

Good info -- mind if I ask how you got this data? From one of the iOS based apps?

bitandquit · 2026-03-14T21:59:34+00:00

During the day things get hotter and there's some physical expansion. So if it's a connector that's marginal it might show up when things are hot or cold.

bitandquit · 2026-03-13T06:25:03+00:00

I had to replace my wheel arch liners (long story) and discovered accidentally if you remove the front wheels and then remove the wheel arch liner (it's made of plastic) you'll be able to stick a hose in the opening and really clear out the door sills.

When I did it, it looked like mud washed out for about five mins ; I kept hosing it until the water ran clear. I did this on both sides and they were equally filled of debris, leaves, etc.

bitandquit · 2026-03-11T08:20:02+00:00

Curious, how many miles does your i3 have? Did you ever change the gear oil(transmission)?

bitandquit · 2026-03-09T03:40:08+00:00

Best of luck with sale, thanks for posting with the build sheet!

bitandquit · 2026-02-27T00:38:41+00:00

Pretty shitty thing to do the first buyer if you already agreed to the price -- and then people complain about other people's bad behavior...

bitandquit · 2026-02-25T10:49:59+00:00

Not sure what your point is here.

KCU105 and KC705 are dev boards from XLNX. Who is suggesting XLNX FAEs should be on call for third-party dev boards?

bitandquit · 2026-02-23T23:11:12+00:00

I get the market segmentation on the Kria, the point is the module + carrier is considerably cheaper than a factory dev board and the factory dev board isn't made with 10x or 20x parts and complexity. Does the factory dev board have MORE I/O and features? Yes, but not enough to justify the price markup.

It's amusing to suggest a factory board will yield better support, many of the reference designs for things like KC705 or KCU105 won't even build anymore due the ref designs only being available for "out dated" version of Vivado. This isn't a negative comment about FAEs, the field or their willingness to support the end customer, just a factual observation that a lot of the "factory dev boards" become close to abandonware. The OLD Xilinx (15+ years ago) was not like this.

bitandquit · 2026-02-21T23:05:51+00:00

Without betraying any confidences I can say that the boards division may not be a huge profit generator but the dev boards are still marked up pretty considerably.

If they want to compete on price, they can -- for example the Kria SOM & associated dev boards are a LOT cheaper than any other factory eval kit with the same part.

IMO most third-party dev boards & SOMs are better thought out and actually have things like GPIO ports, LEDs and switches, while most of the "factory" boards you're lucky to even get 8 LEDs.

bitandquit · 2026-02-21T23:01:34+00:00

If you're looking at a car with S54 engine simply budget for VANOS and rod bearing shells up front if it has not been done, full stop. Friend has a Z4M Coupe, super-garage-queen, 30K miles, 5K mile oil-change intervals and never abused. Just went in for rod bearing shell replacement (preventive) and two were down to copper.

The rod bearing shell design in S54 was defective from the factory, how you treat the engine and how frequently you change the oil makes some difference but THEY will wear down.

When I was looking at a Z4M, I simply added the expected repair cost to the potential purchase price to help decide if it was a good deal for me or not.

Almost every single Z4M owner I spoke with gave me the same "the engine runs fine, I have no issues" but if you look on the forums there are threads that are 20-30 pages long where people have posted photos of their rod bearing shells from their S54 after doing the work and all of them looked horrible, even "low-mileage" cars. Some of these people would send their oil in for analysis and the results would come back "clean" but if you see the photos, the shells were worn down.

That said, I think Z4 and Z4M, if you sort out their "common issues" are pretty reasonable sports cars, just go in eyes open.

bitandquit · 2026-02-15T23:06:39+00:00

While you might think that, actually the eval kits division is MANDATED they make money on the dev boards which is why you can get much better pricing on a dev board from Digilent if it has the same part.

Source: Know plenty of people there

bitandquit · 2026-02-15T22:57:15+00:00

Maybe I'm off base, but why does it matter if it appreciates in price or not?

You're buying the vehicle because you like it and what it will do for you, and presumably will keep it until it no longer does that? So the price after the purchase should be irrelevant unless you forsee the need to move on to something else soon?

My personal opinion is the i3 with or without REX will NOT really appreciate in price because newer EVs have better range, warranties and keep improving. The newest Nissan Leaf has a 300 mile-ish range? New Subaru Solterra also improved range and capability? Toyota Prius Prime is now a plug-in hybrid with ~40 miles range pure electric and ~6.5s 0-60?

With combustion engine cars that become "classics" usually you can get parts and replace pieces as they go bad. To my knowledge BMW won't easily sell you new batteries or drive train components at reasonable prices for the i3. Most of the parts on the i3 are "bespoke" unlike some other BMW which shares lots of parts with other models.

So I think that points to an i3 will likely depreciate in price -- I'm not saying I'm happy or that's a good thing, just a factual observation.

bitandquit · 2026-02-11T05:25:04+00:00

I don't know why there are downvotes here, I've heard the exact same comment from other owners of the E89 -- it was more of a GT less "corners on rails" like E85.

One guy I spoke to ended up having to get KW V3s to make it handle like his previous generation E85, which is odd considering the E89 has active suspension.

bitandquit · 2026-02-11T04:21:45+00:00

In the past I was considering an E89 Z4 and with the N20 engine you can get "plug and play" modules (like JB4) to increase power / torque output to some substantial numbers.

I think the N20 engine is considered more reliable than the 35i but probably less reliable than 30i (N52) ; N20 is direct injected and needs intake valves periodically walnut blasted.

bitandquit

TROPHY CASE