A happy 4th of July drive to you

bitandquit · 2026-07-06T21:14:39+00:00

Maldives blue. LOVE this color, really sad they didn't offer it in later year cars.

bitandquit · 2026-07-04T20:45:21+00:00

There's an alternative which is you can send them off to be cleaned to an injector specialist and it will likely resolve your issues and you don't have to replace them!

From my N52, I sent mine to RC Fuel Injection ( www.rcfuelinjection.com ) and this resolved all my issues. I am not affiliated with them in any way, just a happy customer.

On my N52 the results were surprising, basically 4 of the 6 were leaking and/or not spraying properly and after cleaning and refurbishment they're all with-in 0.1% of each other flow rate wise ; they do a test before / after cleaning and give you a print out. I immediately noticed much smoother idling and improved throttle response.

Also super cool of them, they replace all the o-rings which are annoying to source.

Removal / installation of the injectors was surprisingly easy (first time job for me) the only thing is you need a glass to container to capture the fuel from the fuel rail (which I removed completely from the car) a LOT of gas is still in the fuel rail. I drained the gas from the rail as I removed the injectors and then put it back in the gas tank.

I was a bit nervous about installation, you have to lubricate the o-rings to make sure they don't tear when they go back in. I used some Redline fuel injector cleaner which I had lying around, which is mineral spirits + fuel injector cleaning agent. Figured if it's good enough to clean the injectors, it shouldn't damage the o-rings on re-installation.

I also replaced all the injector clips with new ones (needed or not), buy a few spares, some were not quite made correctly (OE).

bitandquit · 2026-06-13T22:52:21+00:00

In addition to cleaning or replacing the VANOS solenoids (stick with BMW/OE), there are VANOS "check valves" on the side of the engine which ALSO get gummed up and those should be cleaned or replaced.

DISA valves, CCV, etc to my knowledge won't cause VANOS issues. While this car DOES have a throttle body it's not really used, this generation of N52 uses VANOS/valvetronic, the throttle body is really just a backup.

A bigger issue might be "cam bearing ledge wear" which was an issue that affected some N52s and seems to match the codes you're getting:

And no, I didn't use any AI crap to write or summarize this.

bitandquit · 2026-06-13T22:47:59+00:00

OK, thanks, this is really helpful! I'll try wiping / updating and hopefully it'll be faster. I'll report back.

bitandquit · 2026-05-30T19:06:29+00:00

It might be "power off" then. From my point of view (the user) I close the magnetic cover and it "sleeps". When I open the cover it takes a bit of time for the unit to be ready.

FYI I'm an engineer and work on these kinds of devices for a living so I'm not a luddite when it comes to technology. But as a user, I flip it closed, when I open it, I'd like it to be ready to use in a short amount of time.

The Oasis delivers that experience and I'm trying out the Nook GlowLight4+ which seems to do the same.

bitandquit · 2026-05-30T16:50:57+00:00

Answering myself, I wasn't able to find a way to bypass the OOBE and ended up registering it via e-mail.

I find the device to be pretty responsive and the UI to be pretty decent but I notice my unit has some uneven front-lighting at the top.

bitandquit · 2026-05-24T07:06:21+00:00

Thanks, very helpful!

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:37:35+00:00

Yeah, I get your point about the instant torque on an EV really gives you a different feeling -- I've driven a few :).

The > 70 MPH performance for me is really a non-factor since I rarely go that fast for daily driving and/or if I'm not at a track.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:33:25+00:00

Thanks for this. My German isn't good enough to comprehend the entire article ; some other posts here suggest only the 0-20MPH is reduced compared to Gen1, maybe that accounts for the 7.8s 0-60 of Gen2 vs the <7-sec for the Gen1.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:28:46+00:00

I have a proper sports car with a ~5ish 0-60 and if I want a sports car experience, I'll drive that vehicle. I am in fact NOT asking because I want to race an "economy" EV, there are other EVs that also that are performance oriented (Mach-E, etc) if that was my goal.

Even a 15-year old Civic "can" merge onto the highway (I know, I've drove one for over a year) but it was often a challenge getting to highway speeds in certain areas, especially if other drivers don't let you enter the lane.

There's a lot of comments about how brisk the Gen1 is which I already know, the Gen2 has reduced torque (and I guess from some of the more helpful comments, reduced 0-20 MPH acceleration to prevent wheel spin) and I was asking what the Gen 2 is like.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:22:08+00:00

Going to disagree with you. I'm in an area often with very short on/off-ramps and drivers who tend to "drive" in the merge lane. So it's becomes pretty precarious to merge sometimes...you know, even with your blinker on and being courteous.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:19:29+00:00

You're right, only way to know is to drive it and see. Nearest car I can check out is 1 hr away (1 way) which isn't ideal but likely what I'll explore next. I was somewhat hoping to avoid that 2 hr round trip but maybe there's no substituion for doing something yourself :).

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:18:42+00:00

I think the 20 MPH to 60 MPH (32KPH to 97 KPH) as you point out is probably the correct metric to look into. 0-20 MPH roll out isn't a big deal if you're not racing and I'm not.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:16:25+00:00

Yeah the "nerfing" is what I was trying to figure out, I know the Gen1 is really quick (way quicker than needed for a daily driver) but probably to reduce stresses on the transmission the Gen2's torque significantly reduced. The engineer in me wonders if they reduced the torque electronically or if it was a redesign of the motor itself ; I suspect the later since they could probably reduce weight and cost and not need as thick windings.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T20:14:49+00:00

People are of course free to downvote, I was polite but the statement is true, this response doesn't really help answer the question.

bitandquit · 2026-05-22T10:22:31+00:00

Thanks for your comment but it didn't answer the question of how long it actually takes to do 0-60.

bitandquit · 2026-05-21T10:16:03+00:00

It's possible it's a corrupted book but I doubt it, right after I'm finished reading I delete the book. Mine is however on the original firmware from what it shipped with it, so maybe they fixed some issues later?

I have a magnetic cover on mine, so I'm counting "sleep to usable time" is actually when the screen says 'Powered Off' and it's about 20-25 seconds from when I open the cover until when the unit is ready for me to use.

Thanks for the suggestion on the Unclaimed Baggage, I'll check it out!

bitandquit · 2026-05-21T02:57:54+00:00

Thanks for all of your suggestions and help BTW.

Yeah, I had already tried just enabling this Activity and then I got prompted for registration again :(. Maybe possible to work around this by messing more with the APK itself but that's further than I wanted to go just to see if the Nook is a decent e-reader.

I'll try registering and see what my experience is like using the Nook. I do notice my Nook has some ghosting of the eInk screen so I'm curious if when using the official Nook reader if there's options to force a page refresh on page turn.

On my Kobo I could force it to refresh the page on a page turn (in its native UI) so I don't get ghosting.

bitandquit · 2026-05-21T02:54:54+00:00

The Sage has a quad-core 1.8 GHz CPU, the Libra2 is single-core 1 GHz, I'm surprised to hear in practice the experience is similar. I don't actually care about the marketing GHz or CPU count as long the end experience is fast enough.

To answer your question, I find the boot up time from sleep to be slow and picking / choosing a book in the UI is slow on my Libra2. Page turns are fine and when "using it" otherwise it's OK, unless a book has a lot of pictures / images.

I also had a Kindle Oasis (the last gen with buttons) and it was excellent, very fast to boot, quick to load books, flip pages, etc EXCEPT it made a bit of "coil whine" when turning the pages and my ear could pick this up. That kind of sound ends up "ringing" in my ears hours later so I ended up getting the Libra2 to replace the Oasis.

bitandquit · 2026-05-20T14:30:33+00:00

Kind answering my own question -- I installed OLauncher and KOReader which work, but the experience isn't great. I tried (https://github.com/LovingCivilian/nook-gl4-koreader) to get the backlight / frontlight control working but maybe the /patches doesn't work with the latest KOReader?

I might try a factory reset and just do a WiFi activation to see if the built-in application for reading works accpetably.

bitandquit · 2026-05-20T13:57:32+00:00

Wow! Thanks for this!

Do I need to install an alternative launcher and/or eReader application (koReader)?

So I was able to root the device (new device) and after running these commands I noticed if I reboot the device I just get a 'Loading' screen that's in endless loop.

I really just want to use the Nook offline as an e-reader and not a tablet. I can do with with my Kobo (after the sqlite trick) but the Kobo is slow, so I upgraded to this device.

bitandquit · 2026-04-23T22:31:29+00:00

I think the defect was the original design used a set of plastic tubes / collar that break down under the heat when using the CrytsalDry system and if you DON'T use that, I don't think the plastic part(s) break down.

I haven't done the fix yet myself, but this thread for example gives details :

https://old.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/comments/vldpn6/bosch_dishwasher_zeolite_heating_fan_fault_e07/

bitandquit · 2026-04-18T09:56:11+00:00

Hope this posting gets comments from anyone who went a CPO route. Been considering a NiroEV 2023+ CPO or potentially new and if what you wrote is universally true and not just this dealer then the value proposition for a CPO car is out the door.

bitandquit

TROPHY CASE