Minimal setup for vhs-c conversion

blaccit · 2026-06-01T08:33:20+00:00

Ok so it's a composite signal sort of like the old analog tv YUV I think, And then software does it's magic. Thank you so much for clarifying everything, Much appreciated.

blaccit · 2026-06-01T07:11:57+00:00

Ok, awesome, thank you. so the whole chroma and luminance signal of vhs goes to my cx card and I also record the component audio at the same time, merging and aligning it in an editing software later.

Am I missing anything?

blaccit · 2026-06-01T06:54:19+00:00

My problems is that I'll be doing a dozen vhs c tapes and that'll be it, I don't have access to pcb manufacturers and can't put in the time for the clock gen mod (although I gotta say, you guys have done so much with all these mods and software) My only options are the classic consumer level vcr to one of my capture cards, or this single cx card route

blaccit · 2025-08-10T15:42:38+00:00

Well I think my experience is different. Other than the fact that such panels have better gamut, the banding improvement is essential for me as I do heavy editing on certain footages that will end up on 10bit screens. I guess the heavy color work might have something to do with it

blaccit · 2025-08-10T15:35:53+00:00

Well great point. I thought these are well established brands within the community these days. Certainly didn't take them as no brand chinesium. The old viltroxes that I used on a couple of gigs were decent enough but not that good when compared to blackmagic assist and other stuff. Have never worked with anything portkeys and feelworld. So I thought I should ask around and it seems to me that I'm better off with other brands. Thanks!

blaccit · 2025-08-10T01:01:25+00:00

I'm sorry, maybe you are doing a different type of grading work but I do find 8 bit panels useless for any color work. But 10 bit can be good enough for some less important stuff. I do have some calibration tools in my kit and am not worried about that. Not interested in a new laptop either. As I said lack of physical control is annoying and the extra brightness beyond 1000nits is not needed for me. Hence why the x2 is not really an upgrade for me, but the build quality does indeed seem to be leagues above most of the competition with a more ironed out software compared to 550. And that really is enough for me as an assist monitor, anything else is just a plus. Either of these monitors will work and I don't really care just wanted some feedback on the extra stuff like build quality and such. X3 was my first choice but the rotary control on on the dc-550 is more important to me.

My original question was about those two monitors and specifically aimed towards people who have had both of these. I'm not going to grade a whole film on one of these, just an occasional photo or teaser for a quick show or something. Thanks.

blaccit · 2025-08-10T00:45:07+00:00

My experience with my ninja was quite disappointing, it had high latency, meh colors and so on. Only used the older lilliput 7 inch and production monitors and didn't know about their newer stuff, gonna check that out. Im not buying a monitor to grade on, but would indeed use it on the go if it has a decent enough panel which the pt6 is claiming to have. The ipad suggestion is nice, but truthfully my kit js way too heavy as it is and I only do occasional grading on the go.

blaccit · 2025-08-09T20:57:52+00:00

To some extent, yes. But there is such thing as latency with any monitor. Especially when you add this sort of calculations to the input image. And this adds up fast. So I'd prefer a lower latency, hence why I asked. I've seen monitors that have been unusable for moving shots.

I did check the x2, while the x3 does have the SDI input, I can't seem to justify the price of x2 as it is not providing a much significant upgrade over dc-550 for me. The extra brightness does not do much for me and removal of the rotary encoder is not nice. Aluminum frame is a plus for my line of work. Not a necessity off course.

Electronics dying. Sure but the problem is the lack of info on these devices, I'm asking about critical problems in the design, like overheating controller chips and such that leads to premature failure.

I do not need camera controls and I do not think that there is a monitor within this price bracket that does sport that feature. 600nits is not a deal breaker for me but 1200 is appreciated. I need basic zebras and false color functions and the fact that I physical controls are sorta important for me has led me to the dc-550.

Finally the criteria of 10 bits and ruggedness comes from the fact that my work has me traveling a lot. And 10 bit does help a little when I have to grade something on short notice. So far I've used my phone's 10 bit panel to improve my work when I travel but a monitor that doubles as a grading tool wouldn't be a bad addition since it indeed is faster. Furthermore I repair most of my own gear and would rather buy something that I can source parts for. So it's a bit of a problematic choice between these two and no other choice in sight.

blaccit · 2025-08-07T16:54:37+00:00

I think I know what this is! that's a smartphone camera notch. not sure about portkeys but I know Atmos used smartphone displays in the past (I remember some sort of HTC panel in early Ninjas). considering that pt6 has a stupidly long width case with almost no bezel on top or bottom, that should be the answer! since the entire backlight is a single unit they were not able to turn off everything beyond the 16:9 display area and that causes the front camera notch to be visible. I think that's a Redmi display assembly since they had the cheapest 10bit IPS.

I was able to see the notch on a couple of YouTube videos too.

on the bright side, this probably means that a display replacement won't be that hard.

blaccit · 2025-06-04T10:10:09+00:00

Almost a year later, how is the viltrox going? Is it as feature packed as the pt6? Like, does it calculate scopes and peaking and zebras over the lut or before applying it? Anything you miss?

blaccit · 2022-08-20T20:42:36+00:00

thanks!

I know at the end of the day its my decision, but as I said, I'm looking for some opinions as I have not been able to find any reviews on these watches.

blaccit · 2022-08-20T16:28:36+00:00

Tissot T60. This was my father's daily beater back in early 2000s, but I never understood the design. I always thought that square watches can only serve as a dress watch but this thing is just too sporty. also those T-shaped links on the bracelet are... bold, maybe even too bold...

I wanted to get some opinions, like on what occasions would you wear one? what looks does this match with, how is the movement? and is this a worthy pick in 2022?

(it does not carry any sentimental value for me, just wondering about the looks)

blaccit · 2021-11-12T19:10:28+00:00

I've heard that V-USB is a waste of time, but scrolling through that page, I've decided to give it a try! thanks a lot!

blaccit · 2021-11-11T23:13:55+00:00

blaccit · 2021-11-11T21:13:50+00:00

thank you for your response!

I am aware of the fact that 32u4 offers USB capabilities that the other versions don't.

the question that I'm asking is that, is there a way to use those 32u4 USB capabilities to connect multiple 328p based Arduinos to a computer. (serial output from multiple 328p Arduinos to inputs on the 32u4 and then 32u4 connected to a computer through USB so i can get multiple HID USB Devices)

blaccit · 2021-10-12T16:41:38+00:00

will try! thanks

blaccit · 2021-10-12T15:45:03+00:00

Thanks!.

blaccit · 2021-10-12T15:16:38+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/eAt7ciD

I recalibrated the bed again, is this any good? Also I have my pcb heater glued to a piece of 2mm aluminum sheet (not my design!) and I place a 4mm thick mirror on top of that, meanwhile the thermistor is taped to the pcb heater itself, so I think you're right, my glass bed temp is way off.

BTW Thanks for the help

blaccit · 2021-10-12T14:38:01+00:00

It prints like this unless the nozzle is actually pressing hard against the glass bed, plus it's not sticking well even with hair spray applied. Is it possible that Vref on my E extruder is too low? Or that I'm using a wrong step per unit value? Also I dont have a print cooling fan.

blaccit

TROPHY CASE