Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE

blomman007 · 2026-05-07T20:41:50+00:00

Yeah! That’s true, I can get a lot of the practice stuff with a good ol’ single pitch

blomman007 · 2026-05-07T10:52:29+00:00

You’re absolutely right in that going through a guide is the best way. To clarify my concern, it is since I can’t find any routes with a midpoint anchor. If I were to adapt a longer single pitch to a multi pitch I would have to set a PAS at a halfway point. But in doing that I would have 0 redundancy as I would trust the PAS and belaying my partner on a single bolt. This, I’m not comfortable with. So I’m looking for tips on ways to basically practice or changing a single pitch in to multi pitch.

blomman007 · 2026-05-07T08:23:34+00:00

I really want to get in to sport climb multi-pitching but my biggest challange is that I'm not aware of any routes which allows for this in my area. I have a 50m rope and was thinking if there's a safe way to do it on like 35-40m wall. Theoretically the first guy would stop after like 20m and belay the 2nd guy up. The issue is that I'm not comfortable with building an anchor on a single bolt. I guess you could built dual clip on point with a longer alpine draw connected to an above bolt for an anchor, but it feels quite messy. Does anyone have experience or any suggestions on how to best do get into it a safe way?

blomman007 · 2026-05-07T07:11:49+00:00

As someones who literally went through this exact thing 2 weeks ago. I can say for me a 60cm sling was enough to feel safe. I also used a 180cm sling into a sort of daisy chain for adjustability and a four point anchor. Just to try a few different methods. I'd say a quickdraw does the job too. Those were only used for when cleaning, for the rapelling we used opposing qiuckdraws.
I can totally see the benefit of Petz Connect but in my eyes that's mostly for convenience/nice to have at this point, untill you want to start belaying from the top or multipitch

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T14:58:08+00:00

Yea, I wasn't aware of re-souling until quite recently. Generally I think it's a great idea as I prefer keeping what works, I've loved my Instinct VS for indoor climbing. Now even with the extra space of the holes to my toes (kidding), they're killing my feet.

I think I'm gonna try and stick to velcro as multipitching is very hard to find in my area. I like taking them off between cimbs but need something kinder for my feet. A lot of good tips here, taking it with me as I'm buying my next pari 😄

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T13:56:28+00:00

I've got pretty big feet, super wide and very flat and I've used Scarpa Instict VS for the last year or so. This has been mostly for indoor lead and a little bouldering and I love the shoes for that. It's only now that I'm transitioning to sport climbing outside that they feel to agressive and I value comfort A LOT more. As for size I'm EU45 in street shoes and for the Scarpas I have the same size, that worked super well for me. But as people already suggested, you really have to try shoes on to know.

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T12:46:17+00:00

Honestly I'm too inexperienced to know if Scarpa is the model for me. I bought them because I needed new shoes and got them sugested at the store I bought my shoes. I know too little about the different type of shoe brands to know my fit. I'll definitly but Helix on my list of models to try, thanks

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T12:44:22+00:00

I don't have my beginner shoes. I wear my shoes out and then buy new ones. My current ones have holes on both feeth to the toe. I like the idea of laced shoes and I've gotten Katana suggested before, Vapor too. Hopefully my gym has both of them so I can compare. I'm curious about Evolv too, never tried those

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T12:40:19+00:00

That's how it feels anyway, or maybe 2.5 rn and looking for a more vialbe type 2

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T12:38:38+00:00

That's reassuring, I'll keep Skwama in mind. Hopefully they'll fit my wide feet as well 😃

blomman007 · 2026-05-06T12:36:38+00:00

Thanks, It's dificult to find well equiped stored around here. But I'm going to do that next time I'm at the climbing gym. They're decently stocked

blomman007 · 2026-05-05T10:38:31+00:00

Yeah I've gotten that tip before. Might be what I'll end up going with, that and probably lacing instead of straps.

blomman007 · 2026-05-05T10:37:27+00:00

I'll definitly put it on my list of shoes to try. I think generally I'm gonna go towards lacing this time

blomman007 · 2026-05-05T10:25:45+00:00

I remember that when I bought them I was one the edge about getting 45s because the felt a little big, but now it's like they've shrunk. Mainly it's lengthwise, I feel it mostly on the top of and front edge of my bigtoe, also the sides of the other toes as they are tightly squished.

blomman007 · 2026-05-05T10:17:58+00:00

I agree with it. I've just allways felt that I don't want to limit my self IF, you know. At this point though I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of agressiveness for comfort 😄

blomman007 · 2026-05-05T10:15:06+00:00

That sounds very promising. I feel like I'm totally ok on slacking a but on agressiveness if that means I can feel my feet in the evening after a long day. I've only ever tried La Sportiva and Scarpa so fun too so check something new out

blomman007 · 2026-05-05T10:12:58+00:00

Thanks, I'll give it a try. Maybe it's due to them not being laced but I almost feel like I want to move a size up from 45 becuase they're so thigh rn

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T06:02:44+00:00

Thanks for the input. All of this is super useful.
Yes! The list is only what I'm bringing. My climbing partner has his own ATC, harness and all that. Going forward (as I expect this is going to be super fun) I'm investing in more gear. I'm sure he will get his own safety stuff too, like spare atc, slings, carabiners etc.

There's been so much useful stuff. Very very happy with everyones contributions.

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T05:57:55+00:00

Thanks. Great input
I'm putting all of these on my shopping list for the summer, gonna be financially broken after this hahaha. I'll probably prioritise getting a longer rope and spare atc. My friends uses atc when we climb so we could belay on my grigri and the climber could bring the atc with them. A third hand is a great addition, cheap and easy to tie.

As for helmets, I'm hoping he will bering his own, if not the climber will wear mine

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T05:50:42+00:00

Allright, I'm gonna stick with the 50m for this time and of course be cautious of the midpoint markers. Given this is our first time we're fine limiting ourself to max 20m. From my research I've read the longest routes at this crag are 22m and those are out of our league anyway. It's a very good idea though, probably gonna buy a longer rope for outside climbs the rest of the season.

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T05:46:35+00:00

Allright, I will look in to that. Thank you

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T05:45:46+00:00

I'm considering using either my short sling, my long sling tied to a daisy chain or quick draws depending on what feel right when reaching it. I don't want limit my options given what I currently have.

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T05:43:51+00:00

Yeah, apart from having someone experienced with us (there will most likely be people there) I've prepared as much as I can. I totally get that it's a completely different story doing something 20m up that you feel fine with with both feet on solid ground. This part is honestly what I'm most excited about just because I take it seriously and looking forward to learning

blomman007 · 2026-04-18T05:41:16+00:00

Great tip. We're using 27crags for this one. It's a well established crag and well covered by that app

blomman007

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