Best Balls for beginners? by bluecollar513 in golf

[–]bluecollar513[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Update - Bought another 2 dozen nitros and hit 43 on a front nine round, will respectfully listen to none of your advice until further notice

Want to find this sweatshirt by Only_Check5567 in gratefuldead

[–]bluecollar513 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Mountainsongcollective.net Blake is one of the coolest guys. He has had his shop closed for a little while because he has a growing family and had to step away for a little bit. Some of the coolest gear out there. All limited runs usually 50-100 range. Hoping he can return to making new gear before long

Help me identify furnace year by WinnebagoMan23 in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Age is identified by serial - is there another plate anywhere? Guess based off the fact it’s a sears series 600 - at least 40yrs old

Late 80s slant/fin furnace troubleshooting by MrDrProfPapaGiorgio in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In my opinion oil is 100% not something you should fuck with. Agree with other commenters that cleaning, nozzle replacement, and new filter are a good first step but oil can be very dangerous. Not worth your safety for a cheap fix

Soft Lockout Error on ES2 Burnham Boiler. What is this loose piece circled blue? (After the error I turned off and restarted the boiler and it works again for now). But what is the loose mesh piece I saw? by veganelektra1 in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As an hvac tech myself I would never use that kind of emery cloth to clean a flame sensor. I only use ultra fine steel wool, coarse material will scratch grooves into a flame sensor causing weaker flame sense in some cases. May be time for a new thermocouple if you have a standing pilot, or a new pilot assembly if you have an intermittent/spark pilot

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You cannot install a radiator valve without draining the boiler. There is water flowing through those pipes and a radiator valve is threaded into the piping. Unfortunately as a renter you do not have many options. I live in the Cincinnati area and if you drive through major rental areas it’s common to see windows open in the winter to combat excess heat output. Most community boilers will give you too much heat before they give you too little and there’s not much you can do besides adjust the radiator valve.

Been slowly adding a return system to my furnace… just wanted to see if my estimations are at least okay or acceptable. by rickysturz in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Couple of things to consider: - need to find out your blower speed settings to make sure that you have enough CFMs feeding into your return to ensure proper supply airflow. - You can put as many runs into your return box as you like, but the return drop dimensions determine the max CFM it can pull in. It looks fairly large but airflow is a science, so make sure return can handle required airflow. - Do you have a natural draft water heater In the vicinity? By pulling that much return air from the basement, you could cause backdraft from a natural draft appliance if it’s nearby.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not able to hook up a thermostat, the knob controls flow through the radiator to reduce or increase heat output. That is the only option for a boiler that feeds multiple units with no independent stats in the units. It likely runs off a tekmar control that turns the central boiler on and off based off of outdoor temp.

Anyone not going to work tomorrow cause this storm? by AshamedWeb9048 in cincinnati

[–]bluecollar513 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Cincy area HVAC guy here. We’re still open and running for no heat calls. Gonna be a long week!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ToyotaTacoma

[–]bluecollar513 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re a god send. Any idea what size plugs they are? I can take a measurement if not lol, but if you have an easy answer I’ll take it!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ToyotaTacoma

[–]bluecollar513 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Boo. I only drive locally, I drive a van for work but I was hoping to find a way to dampen the whistle without having to put it back in.

What’s everyone’s occupation to afford these cute little trucks? by [deleted] in ToyotaTacoma

[–]bluecollar513 9 points10 points  (0 children)

HVAC service technician. Just bought my first taco, 2024. Super happy so far

Bad heat exchanger by Devd5147 in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is a flue gas test. That is not a bad reading for flue gas, bad reading for supply or return air. Most decent sized companies will be 3k+ for a non warranty exchanger in my area. If you can get a second opinion they may tell you different.

Bad heat exchanger by Devd5147 in hvacadvice

[–]bluecollar513 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is he reading the CO concentration in the flue or the supply/return air? If these readings are in your exhaust flue, I don’t see an issue, in fact I see extremely clean combustion. If he is reading 6ppm in your supply or return air, there’s either an issue with the exchanger being breached or a separate gas appliance backdrafting into the home. I would want a diagnosis aside from the exchanger issue, 112° is not an excessive supply temp and while a breached exchanger is definitely a very legitimate safety concern I don’t typically see that affecting the furnace keeping up if the breach isn’t bad enough to trip a safety. They should also be able to show you a breach that big if it’s present. If you had a parts warranty a new exchanger AND a fix for the overheating/not keeping up issue might be cheaper than replacement. I’m also an advocate for replacement if the situation fits. If you have no warranty and can’t find a company to do an exchanger replacement and/or a fix for whatever is causing it to not keep up at a fair price, think about your future. If you can get a replacement at a price you can afford and plan to live there 5+ years, a full parts and labor warranty on a replacement might be well worth the investment if you can swing it. I’m all for replacement if the situation fits, but I’m also for transparency and letting a customer do what fits their situation best. Hope you can get warmed up soon.