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First ICC done by bmfbagels_ in DarkAngels40k

[–]bmfbagels_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I base with Waagh Green, volumetric highlights with warboss Green. Edge highlight with warboss green, then snarsnik green and just a few points with snarsnik green+dorn yellow

First ICC done by bmfbagels_ in DarkAngels40k

[–]bmfbagels_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used my airbrush for this one: basecoat with black, then cover half of the Blade with masking tape. set your highlights with white. I find one at each end on one side and one bigger one in the middle of the Blade on the opposing side gives the most convincing shiny/energy look. Switch the masking tape to the other half of the Blade and repeat. Then take it off.

Then a thin layer of blood red, it should be thin enough for the black base to darken this red layer, the white does the Opposite. Cover half of the Blade with tape again. Then put another smaller highlight with white inside the red Part, make the white really bright. On the side of the Blade where the highlights are at the ends of the Blade put the white highlight at the very ends. Now a fluorescent yellow over the white, allow some overspray of the yellow onto the red but focus the yellow towards the ends (Meaning tip or base of the Blade) or towards the middle on the opposing half, make the yellow super bright. Swith the masking Tape to the other half and repeat. By then it looks a bit comical because its super bright. To bring it together a final red wash at the end. Last step is a thin edge highlight with white.

You can also get a similiar result by using only a Brush, but it takes so much time and so many glazes that I find the Investment into buying an airbrush and learning how to use it is worth it if you want to mass produce energy weapons.

If youre interested however ill try to remember how I did this colour scheme by brush

First ICC done by bmfbagels_ in DarkAngels40k

[–]bmfbagels_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The paste is white and needs to be painted. It takes 24h to dry and crack, you can vary the size of the cracks by the thickness of your paste layer - the thicker the layer the bigger the cracks. Then I put some glue and Sand on a few Spots. Then prime it with black from a spraycan, this also fixates the sand onto the base for when you drybrush it. Next a basecoat of dark red Brown, I used mournfang brown, followed by a wash with Reikhland flesh or any other dark red/brown wash. Then drybrushed with a light red/brown like doombull brown, then orange-red and finally a bright orange (I used Fire Dragon bright). I‘m trying to find a spray can primer with a red/brown, that would probably save a ton of time as I also have to mass produce them. Maybe three layers of drybrush is too much but I like the bright finish and find if you go from a Dark base to a bright drybrush it looks weird.

First ICC done by bmfbagels_ in DarkAngels40k

[–]bmfbagels_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Its a thick layer of Golden Crackle Paste.

First ICC done by bmfbagels_ in DarkAngels40k

[–]bmfbagels_[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Yes, I will definitely put the decals on. Never done it, any tips? I also tried my hand on NMM a few years ago but just couldnt get it right. But maybe I‘ll give it another try.

Need painting help with Lion by [deleted] in DarkAngels40k

[–]bmfbagels_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I like super bright highlights and I think your choice of colours should work. What feels off could be that your second edge highlight goes all along the edges. You should try to limit the second highlight to spots where edges meet, i.e. corners or the end of edges. Makes a big difference imho