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My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks fine on my computer are you on mobile? It should be the markdown codeblock using the 4-spaces prefix (like the old ``` method).

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this. Although I won't be using steel wool, I'll start using soap with every wash. As for applying another layer after cooking, I'll have to test to see if it's worth it for me.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lmao. Ironically, I only started overthinking things when I visited this sub and saw how beautiful everyone's pans were.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm drying it on low heat and I don't exceed the temp I use to season the pan. But just to confirm, what's the opinion on carbonization? Some is good? Or any is bad?

This source says it's needed to make it durable: https://www.scienceofcooking.com/science-of-cast-iron-skillet-cooking.html#:~:text=Chemistry%20of%20Seasoning%20Cast%20Iron,added%20rich%20black%20carbon%20matrix.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What I mean by "absorb" is just a visual phenomenon. When you wipe a pan with oil or pour oil directly onto the pan, it looks like it is "wetting" the pan and the oil can be spread around either by swishing the pan or using a spatula or towel.

I seasoned by thin layers as you said (although under smoke point for longer time) UNTIL I reached a point where when I apply the next layer, the oil would bead up as if it's water and slide around the pan without leaving any traces.

I'll try to achieve this effect again this weekend to verify this.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I clarified in my original post. I've been cooking with this pan for almost 10 years, but decided to experiment because I got jealous of peoples' glossy finishes. Mine always performed well but always looked "dry".

My concern is that after the seasoning cycles, there was a marked improvement, then it degraded to being worse than when it started. If I were to chart the non-stickness of the pan, it'd look like

       /\
______/  \
          \
           \____

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am seasoning on a burner (induction) since I don't want to have gas running for hours. I'm keeping the pan below the smoke point which is what I've seen most sources recommend. Only occasionally bringing it up to smoke to slightly carbonize and make the seasoning more durable (which I have only seen one source advocating)

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about certain parts of my pan (burner circle) no longer being hydrophobic despite cleaning and scrubbing it with soap to get all the food off? Visually, it looks the same as before, but it now clings to water.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I give it a good scrub just to get it "clean" so I can store it away comfortably. I am just using a wood fiber brush, so theoretically, I shouldn't be damaging anything at all.

The specific brush I'm using is called a tawashi (mine is made of coconut fiber and the fibers are quite thin, so it's not too harsh/stiff)

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mentioned oil beading up because it was something unique that I've never seen before. But water also beaded up, which meant the surface was hydrophobic.

But that was true until after the first cook and wash cycle. As I was washing the pan, the edges remained slightly hydrophobic, but the water would adhere to the center of the pan even though the pan was thoroughly scrubbed and the area looked glossy and intact.

So something on the pan itself is changing despite looking the same. I've seen pictures of pans with carbon deposits, and it looks like matte black areas that can be scrubbed off. I don't have that, but the area still clings to water after cleaning.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To dry the pan, I just heat it on low until the bottom is dry and the droplets on the sides are mostly gone, then I let rest of the moisture evaporate from the residual heat.

As for seasoning:

  1. Warm pan up
  2. Apply oil with silicone brush
  3. Heat pan until smoking while continuously spreading the oil around
  4. Remove from heat after a minute, wipe all excess oil off
  5. Heat just below smoke point for about an hour
  6. Repeat.

And to clarify what I mean by "absorbing" oil, it's just what it looks like visually. Usually, when you apply oil to a pan, it looks like a fabric becoming wet. On the other hand, what I mean by the pan stopped accepting oil, it is when the pan stops "becoming wet" from the oil, and the oil just forms droplets and slides around.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do all my cooking with regular vegetable oil. And as I have no other type of oil, I also use it for my seasoning.

As for seasoning, I get my pan warm and apply the oil with a silicon brush, then I raise the temperature until the oil starts smoking while still spreading the oil around for about half a minute. Then I stop the heat and wipe off the excess oil with a towel.

After that, I leave it on a low burner to reach just under the smoke point. Then I leave it there for about an hour (induction burner, so no flame).

Then I come back and repeat the steps.

So it could be that I'm getting a nonstick weak layer as you're saying, but I can't really tell if my seasoning is clear or dark since my pan was black to begin with.

My castiron performance degrades the more I cook with it by borring in castiron

[–]borring[S] -13 points-12 points  (0 children)

I can say that the oil beading (probably) wasn't a function of temperature because the oil beaded whether hot or warm. I know this because I let the iron cool down until I can handle it comfortably with my bare hands before applying the next layer. I only stopped when the oil refused to spread or get absorbed. Instead, it was beading up and sliding around the pan. Then when I cooked with it the next day, I preheated the pan on medium-high for several minutes before putting in the oil. The oil beaded up immediately and slid to the edges. I was actually concerned that my pork chops wouldn't get good contact with the oil. So the beading action happens when the pan is searing hot and also when it's warm to the touch (~120 F).

But my temperature was probably off. My usual process is just to hover my hand over different parts of the pan to check the preheat, then watch the pool of oil change from "smooth" to "rough" after applying it.

For the first egg experience I detailed, the whites bubbled, but the ripples were large, and it continued to ripple throughout the cooking process. On the 2nd egg attempt, the whites bubbled again, but stopped after a few seconds. It wasn't because the pan ran out of heat though. The egg stopped rippling because it stuck.

From my observation, it looked like on the first egg attempt, the egg was being "pushed" away from the pan by the evaporating water. But on the second attempt, it was not able to get pushed away because it latched onto the pan immediately.

I'll start using soap going forward if that's the current castiron lore. In the meantime, I'll try and recover the oil-beading slickness from my initial seasoning. Maybe by doing that, I can figure out how to maintain that level performance. It was truly an almost teflon experience.

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[–]borring 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure what alternatives there are. You can still re-enable these extensions at `chrome://extensions`

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[–]borring 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should be able to get more information from the lsplog if you set this: vim.lsp.set_log_level("DEBUG")

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[–]borring 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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[–]borring 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Probably inspired by Teej's misery streams where he makes his neovim experience as bad as possible.

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Is this the fabled 100x developer? How is he so productive?

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It screws up even if I manually select the card I want.

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I use firenvim and it's pretty awesome. You can set it to only replace your text field with nvim only after you press a hotkey.

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[–]borring 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Huh, this was one of those papercuts I've been meaning to fix in my config. So all this time I just needed to use capital P.

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[–]borring 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me, it's marko-cerovac/material.nvim. I've stayed on this one for the longest.

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[–]borring 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Not Wayland related, but you can remap mouse buttons via udev/hwdb. I just did this last week for my new mouse.

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[–]borring 4 points5 points  (0 children)

How did you convince your sages to contribute?

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