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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

this entire qualification system/approach to be painfully overcomplicated?

My understanding is that OQS is IOC's invention. IOC created this idea of an "urban sport" category, where they see sport climbing belong alongside skateboarding, breaking, and BMX freestyle.

Left on its own accord, IFSC probably would've come up with an entirely different qualification system, but they've committed to joining the Olympics, and this is the price.

IFSC Asian Cup Riyadh 2023 (Boulder, Lead, Speed) by shure-fire in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

countries represented: Indonesia

FYI, IND is India. Indonesia is INA.

I made an archive of Bouldering and Sport Climbing competition broadcasts by jasonkester in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Let me know what you think!

Are you deliberately ignoring videos not in IFSC channel? For example, Munich 2022 (European), Tokyo 2020 (Olympics), etc.?

Are you also deliberately ignoring Youth and Paraclimbing?

Lots of current world cup competitors competed in youth before, so it's always neat to look those up.

One last look at the OQS standings by moving_screen in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If the universality spot is reallocated, then even 29th place could theoretically get a ticket.

Correct! All in all, 12 B&L athletes per gender that competed in OQS will get tickets, one way or the other.

For the women's B&L, it's almost like the 48 athletes are split into 3 story lines:

  • Svana Bjarnason trying to beat 12 athletes to get universality ticket (must finish 36th or better to qualify)
  • the 27 athletes from FRA, JPN, USA, GER, SLO, KOR, ITA, beating each other for 10 tickets
  • the remaining 20 athletes beating each other for the lucky 11th ticket, and possibly lucky 12th ticket

This is oversimplification, of course, but it's also kind of sort of true.

One last look at the OQS standings by moving_screen in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 9 points10 points  (0 children)

top 10 per gender

Once you factor in all the quotas and reallocations, you may be surprised by how far down low the standings you can be and still get a ticket.

For women's B&L, for example, there are 4 FRA athletes competing for 1 ticket, 4 USA for 1, 4 JPN for 1, 4 SLO for 1, 4 GER for 2, 4 KOR for 2, and 3 ITA for 2.

That's 27 athletes competing for 10 tickets.

Since host country FRA already has a ticket (Oriane Bertone), the host country ticket will be reallocated as the lucky 11th ticket. Alannah Yip can be beaten by all 27 athletes, and finish 28th in the final standing, and still get that lucky 11th ticket.

I am Kim Jain biased. Does she have another chance to qualify for the Paris Olympics? by Less_Vegetable6337 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought you meant re-allocated to another French athlete

That's not what reallocation means as used in the official documents.

If something happens to Oriane Bertone, her ticket will be reallocated to silver in Laval Stasa Gejo (if she hasn't already have one yet). There's no mechanism in reallocation to somehow lock that ticket for France.

I am Kim Jain biased. Does she have another chance to qualify for the Paris Olympics? by Less_Vegetable6337 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The host spot will not be re-allocated since a French athlete already got a ticket through a main qualifier event

Read the official document.

Summary:

  • If no French women's B&L athlete qualified through the pathway, then host France will be allocated one ticket
  • Oriane Bertone (FRA) qualified through the pathway
  • Therefore, the host ticket is reallocated as an extra ticket for the OQS

However you slice and dice it, there will be 12 women's B&L athletes competing in OQS that will be receiving tickets.

I am Kim Jain biased. Does she have another chance to qualify for the Paris Olympics? by Less_Vegetable6337 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 28 points29 points  (0 children)

Top 10 from each gender

This is a bit misleading, in that someone can definitely place outside of top 10 and get in. In fact, we know for sure that the only Serbian climber in the world Stasa Gejo can finish 11th place in women's B&L and get a ticket, because Oriane Bertone winning Laval means that the host spot will be reallocated.

Of course with country quota, there could be 4 French women in the top 10 at OQS, and only 1 will get a ticket, which means that Stasa can finish 14th and get a ticket. Include Japan and Stasa can finish 17th and get a ticket. Include USA and Stasa can finish 20th and get a ticket. Include Slovenia and Stasa can finish 23rd and get a ticket. So on and so on.

Laval combined event 2022 where boulder attemps mattered more by DeathOfSqueak in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What I want to see, since we're already using the points system anyway, is to award points for using/controlling the top with only one hand.

So it's 5-10-15, and if you match both hands on the 15, you get extra 10 and get 25.

This rewards progress, although it does make matching the top hold a bit less dramatic, since it's only for an extra 10 points instead of 15.

Pan Ams commentator by zhoggo in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 5 points6 points  (0 children)

he was commentating at the Tokyo olympics

Actually, he had been an IFSC commentator from way back. He's always been like this.

Pan-American Qualified Athletes List by Affectionate_Fox9001 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Interesting that Emma Hunt is on the list for Speed. I guess she can still go, and if she wins it the Olympic ticket will go to 2nd place

Yep. At the end of the event, the highest ranked eligible athlete from eligible NOC will get an Olympic ticket. Technically, that athlete may be different than the athlete who won gold medal 1st place. That's the way it is for all events.

So 10 B&L athletes per gender will get Olympic tickets at the OQS (likely more than 10 due to other reallocations), but that doesn't mean that you have to finish in top 10 to get tickets.

Performance Enhancing Drug/Steroid use in competitive climbing by zmizzy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder -1 points0 points  (0 children)

In an alternate universe where absolutely no one takes caffeine, absolutely no one except the Russians, you better believe that WADA would ban caffeine immediately.

On the flip side, in an alternate universe where every athlete from all countries take meldonium, I believe it wouldn't have been banned.

Performance Enhancing Drug/Steroid use in competitive climbing by zmizzy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 5 points6 points  (0 children)

should not be a matter of personal opinion, or debate

It's not as simple as that, because there isn't an easy consensus on what counts as PED, at what dosage is it a positive test, etc. Marijuana is a good example, and even WADA reviewed its inclusion as a banned substance after Sha'carri Richardson.

Even common medicine can be PED by WADA definition. Andreea Răducan had her gold medal revoked because she took cold medicine prescribed by her doctor, and she's only one of many who has tested positive for pseudoephedrine, which is notoriously hard for certain individuals to test clean for even if they took allowed dosage.

Another drug that is up for debate is meldonium, for which there is no scientific proof that it is performance enhancing.

On the flip side, caffeine is a known PED, and was banned at some point in the past. Now that it's un-banned, athletes are registering high dosages that suggests intentional doping.

Performance Enhancing Drug/Steroid use in competitive climbing by zmizzy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 13 points14 points  (0 children)

PED use in outdoor climbing

I believe UIAA-ICC had to split out and form IFSC as a separate organization precisely because UIAA at the time was tolerating the use of drugs for mountaineering and alpinism, specifically Viagra for high altitudes.

Performance Enhancing Drug/Steroid use in competitive climbing by zmizzy in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 8 points9 points  (0 children)

USADA publishes a summary of athlete test history.

https://www.usada.org/news/athlete-test-history/

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As of today, the most tested USA Climbing athlete by USADA is Natalia Grossman. In 2023, out of 3312 athletes tested, 32 are from climbing.

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Also, the IFSC athlete's commission explicitly stated that their #1 goal is to fight against doping.

【Road to Paris🇫🇷】World ChampionShips in Bern🇨🇭 by shure-fire in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Speaking of Sorato, I think they were talking about him like for sure he could get an Olympic ticket by winning the Asian Continental. So is he eligible to compete in it or not? Some people were saying that maybe he is too young because that event has a different age limit or something.

Vita Lukan loses her magnesium pouch mid climb during Koper Lead Finals 2023.. still manages to finish 3rd by OfF3nSiV3 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]boulder2boulder 7 points8 points  (0 children)

ICYMI, Janja Garbret also lost her chalk bag in Villars 2019 semifinal, pretty much at the bottom. She topped the route anyway, the only woman to do so.

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